Fuchs915 Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share Posted October 9, 2020 A little bit of time on the car and I have identified the (main?) problem. Stripped the intake manifolds off and the spacer and top gasket on number 3 were both sitting across the port. That might explain the smoke billowing out when I was testing it, as well as it's running issues. I recall I had to loosen/remove the nuts at some stage for some reason after I had replaced the gaskets and assume the stud came with the nut allowing the spacer and gasket to move, despite me thinking I had been very careful. The gasket is torn and marked, the spacer is also marked, so good job I have new ones to go on all round. Should have it all back on and buttoned up tomorrow. Will test again for leaks with my home brew smoke machine as I go but am hoping this will now be sorted. I took a couple of videos, will figure out best way to upload/link to them over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesworth Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchs915 Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 Made some progress today. New gaskets and spacers installed. Reinstalled everything, and did a leak test. The inflated glove shows that there is pressure in the system and after switching the air off, the glove remained inflated so that should mean no leaks!! I have the blower plumbing to put back on, a couple of small jobs under the car to tighten some bolts and have the battery on charge with my new CTEK (my Lidl one went pop last weekend) so looking to turn the key sometime tomorrow all being well. Fingers crossed no more issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Comerford Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I’m interested in the way that you have tested for vacuum leaks as I think I have one. Since getting over my running issues after changing fuel lines, injectors and then refurbishing the WUR ive noticed that when I remove the oil cap the revs dip far more than they ever have. The revs dipping is because you introduce a vacuum leak by removing the cap and so I can only deduce that I have a small leak somewhere because the revs dip greater than before. I might have to fix up a device like the one you made unless you've patented it and are now making them......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Hart Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 39 minutes ago, Ian Comerford said: I’m interested in the way that you have tested for vacuum leaks as I think I have one. Since getting over my running issues after changing fuel lines, injectors and then refurbishing the WUR ive noticed that when I remove the oil cap the revs dip far more than they ever have. The revs dipping is because you introduce a vacuum leak by removing the cap and so I can only deduce that I have a small leak somewhere because the revs dip greater than before. I might have to fix up a device like the one you made unless you've patented it and are now making them......... You should also be able to stall an SC by putting your hand over the air intake. Doesn’t apply to C3.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strosek34 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Great work Fuchs915. 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchs915 Posted October 12, 2020 Author Share Posted October 12, 2020 He's a runner!! Did the last couple of bolts up under the car to secure the flywheel sensors and the P clip that secures their wires to the engine tin, and a couple of turns of the key and it all fired up quite nicely. Rev's look a little low at just under 800 on the rev counter but I can play with that later. Next job is to get him MOT'd and then out for a drive or two to blow off the cobwebs - literally! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchs915 Posted October 12, 2020 Author Share Posted October 12, 2020 On 10/10/2020 at 16:24, Ian Comerford said: I’m interested in the way that you have tested for vacuum leaks as I think I have one. Since getting over my running issues after changing fuel lines, injectors and then refurbishing the WUR ive noticed that when I remove the oil cap the revs dip far more than they ever have. The revs dipping is because you introduce a vacuum leak by removing the cap and so I can only deduce that I have a small leak somewhere because the revs dip greater than before. I might have to fix up a device like the one you made unless you've patented it and are now making them......... I copied the idea from a Youtube video, so will have to make my fortune another way. If you do make one, I found the soldering iron istelf wasn't air tight, so had to seal it around the body at both ends - I used alamgamting tape where the wire comes out and some high temp sealant where the tip comes out of the body, I could send mine to you - courier or IB Pony Express (if that is still a thing...?), although might be a bit fragile, but happy to give it a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesworth Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Fuchs915 said: He's a runner!! Did the last couple of bolts up under the car to secure the flywheel sensors and the P clip that secures their wires to the engine tin, and a couple of turns of the key and it all fired up quite nicely. Rev's look a little low at just under 800 on the rev counter but I can play with that later. Next job is to get him MOT'd and then out for a drive or two to blow off the cobwebs - literally! Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchs915 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 MOT passed this morning. Have some drag on NSR parking brake, hopefully just needs a little adjustment, but otherwise all good. Mrs J says car sounds quieter after the work I have done. I think it's due to getting the air leaks sorted so it doesn't have a lumpy idle and using the Kirk valve adjustment tool meant I could get all the valve gaps set consistently. It was clear when using it that some of the valve adjusters moved when tightening the lock nut. After a run to and from the MOT station, car idles at around 850, so blowing off the cobwebs has helped. Happy chap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Rock Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Comerford Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Good job, must be a relief Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesworth Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Nice one Kev. Any chance I could borrow the kirk tool as I'll be doing a valve adjustment over the winter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchs915 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Lesworth said: Nice one Kev. Any chance I could borrow the kirk tool as I'll be doing a valve adjustment over the winter? Sure, my rates are very competitive 2 hours ago, Ian Comerford said: Good job, must be a relief Definitely, always pleased to get a pass. Good luck tracking your leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 On 12/10/2020 at 15:52, Fuchs915 said: He's a runner!! Did you do a little jig............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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