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Anticipation was at maximum yesterday as I travelled up to Tamworth to collect our new Golf (for number one son). Would it make it the 151 miles back down south without issue? 151 miles is a long way in a 29 year old car that's been, essentially, sitting for four years. 900 miles in the past four years to be precise. It's always had a current MOT and there were some worrying advisories and fails on some of them. Still, the current one seemed OK and the VIN numbers all seem correct and unmolested. What could go wrong?

Well, the seller had readjusted the coilovers (I'm not overly keen on having these but I'll see how they go) back up to somewhere near standard and pumped up the very dubious tyres, I duly paid the balance and off I went. The car drove very well on the motorway, happily keeping up with the flow. Engine seemed smooth and quiet. We stopped at the services and as I pulled up to the first roundabout it stalled. No Biggie, started up and off I went but it seemed reluctant to rev smoothly from pull away. Parked up, ate some food and back to the car. Started up fine and off we go again. Onto the slip road under hard acceleration there was a horrible grinding noise from the front offside. Ease off and it went away. Occasional grind every now and then as I went on. I was sure it was something to do with the coilovers. Steering was very true and didn't wander but very weirdly the steering wheel was off by about 45 degrees. Very strange.

Temperature stayed steady at all times except when we hit a hold up on the M40, grinding to a halt the temp rose slightly but dropped back down when the fan kicked in. I did notice that the offside indicator stopped working, you know, the tell tale super fast flashing of the light on the dashboard. This made passing a little more tricky, more planning needed.

Get home and have a look at the offside front. Sure enough the top and bottom springs had come unseated from their plastic joiner thingy and were not straight. Must be the issue.

So this morning, two pumps to set the auto choke, car starts then dies. Starts and stays running while holding the gas on, lift foot, dies. I didn't want to flatten the battery so left it a few minutes, tried again, all good. Mmmmmmm, carburettors........ Next jack out and car up. Wound off coilover adjuster and popped springs back where they should be. Easy peasy. Changed oil and filter and air filter. Remedied indicator issue, just dodgy connections. Managed to get one fog light working  but not the other. Took door handle apart as the trigger wasn't releasing the door properly. A plastic threaded rod was not pushing the mechanism enough and there wasn't enough adjustment so I fashioned a replacement from an M8 bolt, all good.

So NOS and I took the car for a spin. Drove nicely but with slightly high revs. Once warm though the revs are too low and the car wants to stall, Mmmmmmm, carburettors. There is still some grinding from the front but I shall take it for a thorough check over/MOT and get some expert opinion.

What is very refreshing though, after Porsche tax, is the price of parts. I was doing research for what may be needed to get things back to a good standard and I was pleasantly surprised. For example, upper and lower ignition cowling (needed) £26 pair, whole new front wing (not needed) £40, driver side front corner window finisher (needed) £9, various rubber seals and gaskets, cheap, front discs £19, whole new door handles with locks and keys £22!!!! 

First things first though, I need to find a man (or woman) who knows carburettors to get the running good and reliable, this is going to be a daily driver. New tyres are needed all round and the alignment checking. Lots to do.....

IMG_20200927_162536.thumb.jpg.53dcf2791966fd4db52c2749ee1de8f7.jpg

Edited by Phill
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Have the coil overs got the helper springs fitted to keep the main springs seated at full extension? 
Ref the carb would probably be worthwhile a clean and refurb kit - only a few £. 
If it’s a Pierburg they have a pull down actuator these are sub £15 and with changing as part of a service.
Air leaks and and build up of crud are the usual offenders. 

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42 minutes ago, Leicestershire said:

Have the coil overs got the helper springs fitted to keep the main springs seated at full extension? 
Ref the carb would probably be worthwhile a clean and refurb kit - only a few £. 
If it’s a Pierburg they have a pull down actuator these are sub £15 and with changing as part of a service.
Air leaks and and build up of crud are the usual offenders. 

I don't know anything about the coilovers. What do the helper springs do and why?

It is a Pierburg. I shall try and get it turned up before stripping it down, I had trouble enough with my motorbike carb and that's only got about 3 separate parts!

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When the suspension is at full droop - ie car is jacked up or son jumping car over canal bridges, the main coil spring can slip off the upper or lower perch. To keep the spring in position small helper springs are used.

https://funtodrive.net/coilovers-vs-regular-shocks-and-springs-what-is-the-difference/
 

If you find someone with a bit of carburettor knowledge then a tune up could help but most garages want to plug something into a computer. At best they mask the real fault by making incorrect adjustments.
 

If you get the rebuild kit, take loads of photos use good quality screw drivers you will do a far better job than most garages.
Carb repairs were usually covered in the Haynes manual.

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Well done looks sweet, love the MK2 Golf had 3 8 value GTI's back in the day, small bumper 1985, 87 and 88.  Pretty easy to work on and things like the door lock you mention can be repaired.

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What a great first car for your son.  My first was a 1982 X Reg Mk1 Golf C.  The full 1.1 litres of power in a maroon body.  I loved that car!

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2 hours ago, Nige said:

I always had to change the heater bypass valve on the ones I owned.

I think one of mine had a recall for that, or something to do with the heater matrix splitting and pissing boiling coolant over your feet....

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Yeah, I think the recall used valve to reduce water flow rate into the matrix so it didn't pop.  After time the valve blocks up and you get limited supply of hot water through the matrix, thus tepid heat into the cabin.

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On 27/09/2020 at 21:43, Leicestershire said:

When the suspension is at full droop - ie car is jacked up or son jumping car over canal bridges, the main coil spring can slip off the upper or lower perch. To keep the spring in position small helper springs are used.

https://funtodrive.net/coilovers-vs-regular-shocks-and-springs-what-is-the-difference/
 

If you find someone with a bit of carburettor knowledge then a tune up could help but most garages want to plug something into a computer. At best they mask the real fault by making incorrect adjustments.
 

If you get the rebuild kit, take loads of photos use good quality screw drivers you will do a far better job than most garages.
Carb repairs were usually covered in the Haynes manual.

This is what my coilovers look like, whether they are the same brand who knows. There are two adjuster rings next each other unlike the one in the image.

AP Coilovers - Volkswagen Golf Mk2 Fwd

Yesterday was a bad day. I drove the car to work and after struggling to start, by the time I got to work it was stalling every time I stopped. However, on the way home it ran much better and the bogging down at pull away was almost gone. I think difference in air temperature must have made a difference.

I stopped at my local car spares shop for some carb cleaner, stp petrol additive and a fuel filter. Locked the car up but when I returned I could not unlock it for the life of me. So in the busy high street I looked a right fool climbing in through the hatchback, unlocking the passenger door, then out the hatchback and then in through the passenger door climbing across to the drivers side. Once home tried again to open the door. No such luck. Started by breaking the trigger off! :cry: Looked online for help. The only advice was to break the door handle off altogether. Managed to get most of the interior panel off with the door shut but that wouldn't allow me access to see the problem. So, back outside, took off handle trim and undid retaining screw. Managed to wiggle the end out but that was it. Ended up breaking off the whole handle. Good job they are cheap pot metal inside! Once off I could operate the mechanism from the resulting hole, door open.

Then I moved on to the carburettor. Replaced the fuel filter, easy. Started it up and it ticked over OK. Sprayed carb cleaner in and it revved and dropped as you might expect. Repeated this a few times. I then noticed that the accelerator cable was looped behind a bracket causing it to be a bit cramped. I know, I'll move that so it rests a little easier. The moment I did that the car died. I touched nothing else. Car starts but won't idle, revs but won't idle :angry:

When I took the air filter off I noticed that the carb seemed to have a fair bit of movement on its base. A lot more than would seem right. Under the carb is a big thick rubber base upon which the carb mounts with four long through bolts. Moving the carb it seems the bas may well be knackered thus allowing air in. What is odd is that the air filter, which is large, doesn't appear to brace anywhere which would cause unnecessary force on the carb. However, I suppose, with engine movement it needs to move with it.

Anyway, couldn't get the engine ticking over so gave up.

I am ordering new handle, new rubber mount and carb rebuild kit along with new choke pull down as L suggested. Watch this space.   

 

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I just put some used lower springs and dampers on mine.  Always thought the adjustable stuff is just adding more faff for no gain for a daily hack.

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39 minutes ago, Lesworth said:

What a cracking little car. Needs some BBS alloys but I guess other things must come first :)

Thanks Les. The seller had a set of BBS alloys which he offered me. It was an either or situation and I like the steel wheels and the BBSs needed complete refurb. I'm sure NOS will choose what he wants eventually.

27 minutes ago, Nige said:

I just put some used lower springs and dampers on mine.  Always thought the adjustable stuff is just adding more faff for no gain for a daily hack.

I'm tempted to put the original stuff back on. It's about £100 a side new for the front. It will have to wait until all the necessary stuff is done. However, NOS keeps telling me he wants it lower and I keep saying - more insurance.

Well, decided to have another go at starting the car (and keeping it started). I sprayed copious amounts of carb cleaner directly at the jets, down the throats and all around. Left it for 5 mins and hey presto, now idling :ani_clapping: Took it for a drive, stalls when coming to a stop too quickly, almost like the equivalent of a decel valve is not working. Possible raise in idle speed needed? Still bogs down when pulling away which makes me think accelerator pump needs adjustment. Need to check all the vacuum hoses. Can't do any more today. Good news is that if I do strip it down and clean it I can note the position and setting of everything and it will hopefully start when I put it back. New parts ordered.

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Fairly sure I've got a set of the wheel trims that fit the centres of those steel wheels. Came of my 1990 Golf GTi. If they're any use to you I'll dig them out and get them off to you.

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40 minutes ago, Roy M said:

Fairly sure I've got a set of the wheel trims that fit the centres of those steel wheels. Came of my 1990 Golf GTi. If they're any use to you I'll dig them out and get them off to you.

That would be very cool Roy, thank you. The seller had three and they aren't the greatest.

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More news. I have established that the auto choke is not working. It doesn't come on when the pedal is depressed but after manually setting it it does eventually come off on it's own. It then drives fine although I have upped the tick over to prevent it stalling and to make it pull away more smoothly. Hopefully I can remedy all of this when I strip, clean and rebuild the carb. I have the parts now so should be soon.

I took it for an "MOT" on Friday. It couldn't be tested properly as it didn't have a drivers door handle. This has now been replaced, £9.50!! The car would have sailed through the MOT otherwise :). The rust mentioned on previous MOTs has been repaired and the underside looks very clean. Most of the exhaust is new and there are no worn or damage suspension parts. The front alignment and tracking is way off however, even though it drives in a perfectly straight line. Still, booked in today for remedification. 

Yesterday I noticed condensation on the windows and thought there may be a water leak after all the torrential rain. Sure enough, carpet behind drivers seat is damp/wet. I drove it yesterday too and got dripped on from the sunroof. So whipped out the net curtain wiry stuff and cleared through the drain holes. They seemed OK. Tested and water runs out nicely. It may be that the car is parked on my drive which is very steep and there is a double lip inside the sunroof, the second of which doesn't have anywhere to drain from. Alternatively, it could be because there was no drivers door handle and water has run inside the hole and then out the drain hole in the bottom of the door into the car. This would make sense especially as the sill trim is broken at the end and may not be deflecting run off out of the car effectively. We had more heavy rain last night so will check it all before I take it for alignment.

In other news I realised I had made a cardinal mistake and not done an HPI check!! What a dope :rolleyes: Having now thought of this now though it was not going to let me rest so I did it this morning. Thankfully all good, nothing untoward at all, happy days.

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The carb on a 1.6 Ryder is quite crap if I recollect correctly. Seek a Weber would be my advice. 8v Mk2 GTI is my favourite car ever followed closely by 6N2 Polo so kudos 👍🏻

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Great selection. I particularly like the red one. NOS will be be lucky if I can get it running properly. More tinkering this weekend.

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Not a bad weekend. Figured out that the car starts and runs quite nicely as long as you set the choke by hand. Not a faff at all :rolleyes: lift the bonnet, remove air filter lid, move choke flap and away you go. Choke stays on waaaayyyyyy too long but the more we drive it the better it is running. I've decided not to mess with the carb until the SC is back from it's gearbox rebuild, at least that way I have at least one car I can drive if I need to (hopefully this weekend it goes away to be done).

We were still having problems with the door lock. I finally disassembled it completely and found that due to 30 years of wear the lever inside the latch mechanism was worn down enough for the trigger actuator not to be able to push is down far enough to release the latch. Tried a couple of different things to no avail so took a chance and welded a new layer of metal onto the lever. That allowed that extra mm or two to actuate the latch. Good stuff.

Also we traced the front speaker wires back to the connector at the dash and they work fine. Tested the speakers and they work fine. Picked up new radio for NOS birthday and that comes with a connecting loom. It can even connect to two blue tooth phones at the same time and it has voice control! Just need to find the rear speaker wires now. Fitted a dash cam, jobs a good'n.

Roy's centre caps arrived and look great, thanks Roy :ani_clapping:

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Succumbed! Who am I to go against all the combined conventional interweb wisdom? I bought the Haynes carburetor manual and the Pierburg 2e3 section is 12 pages and the Weber 32/34 DMTL section is 5 pages. That finally convinced me.

IMG_20201017_170320.thumb.jpg.f6fbe9f02ebb97d3b5e2748e06b62af3.jpg

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This will sort it out! That Pierburg is a pain in the arse. MPG should improve also. Next is to free up the exhaust a bit - could watch the GTI forums for suitable manifolds.

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