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SC engine removal


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My engine is going in for an overhaul next month and I will be removing it prior to delivery to GCR in Leicester.  Once it is finished I will deliver the car to them so that they can refit and ensure it all runs ok.  It’s good for them as it means they don’t have a whole car sitting around for weeks in their limited real estate.  I was planning on removing engine and gearbox in one and splitting them once out, however, I then remembered that when I had my clutch changed 12-13 years ago the garage that did it just removed the engine as this is possible on the SC. They’re were very experienced guys having worked on Porsche’s since the 60s.  Has anyone on here done this and can vouch for it being the best option?  It does remove the need to undo the drive shafts and gearbox linkage, but I wonder if thee are any difficulties in this option?  Grateful for any thoughts.  Thank you

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It will be nice to see you hot rod engine but here it goes... ok.. 1.drain the oil from tank and engine.2.disconnect (right hand side -next to the oil tank) the oil line from engine oil pump

not possible on G50 trans so 1987 and up it has to come out as one unit ,after the 993 is the other way tras.out for a clutch jobs;-) Ivan

It’s about half the weight as a guess.  I will weigh them later this week if I get change

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IMHO it would be less hassle to disconnect the driveshafts and gear linkage than disconnect the engine from gearbox in situ, especially as you have access to lots of space, I believe? However, I've never actually done it myself so could be wrong.

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Sounds possible enough, though will it be a faff when reinstalling, lining up the input shaft, etc?

For the sake off an extra 30-45 minutes removing the drive shaft bolts I'd drop the whole lot.

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As I said, these guys had been working on 911s since the 60s and knew it was possible on the SC and from their perspective, easier.  I just want to know if someone slightly less experienced might be able to do this.  

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+1 on drop the whole lot. If you have a lift it would be easy.

The worst bit is getting the body up high enough to get the engine out (if you don’t have a lift).

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Wiggling a 911 motor on a trolley jack trying to line up the input shaft whilst reinstalling doesn't sound sensible.  Piece of pee when it's a Beetle engine though.

You'll also need to support the loose end of the gearbox too.

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Ian..it is a piece of cake...i never remove the engine and transs -let`s say i do clutch job.It is really simple thing to do..If you like i can write you a line up how to go about it. And yes i use single floor jak not even a lift...;-)

 

Ivan

 

In my better days i did a clutch job in 45 minutes;-)

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It will be nice to see you hot rod engine but here it goes...

ok..

1.drain the oil from tank and engine.2.disconnect (right hand side -next to the oil tank) the oil line from engine oil pump to tank-36-32mm open wrench.Remove the S hose, tank to oil cooler -2 clamps use oil pan it will leak some oil out. I do not know if you have ssi system -and if you have crossover oil line.if yes disconnect it next to the oil cooler.

4.use circlip pliers to remove the little finger on the bottom of clutch arm.remove the finger with the spring and the big arm.5 remove the triangle bracket(for the clutch arm ) so you can get easier to the 15mm nut above (which holds the trans to the engine)

6.remove the other side 15mm nut on the trans.

7.(prior this disconnect the battery) disconnect the 13mm nut -starter red cable and the other yellow(what ever you have on starter)

8.use needle nose pliers disconnect the back up light cable from the switch and move away from the trans.

9.remove the heater hoses from heat exchanger -disconnect them

10.disconnect the throttle linkage from the trans bracket(just pry sideways with a screwdriver.

11.remove between the seat the cover and disconnect the shifter coupler -just the little allen head screw not the 13mm adjustment !!

 

Now the top

1.Remove the oil filter so you can access the breather hose behind it-disconnect it form the tank and the other on top of the filler too.

2.remove the el.plug on left side from the alu fuse box and wire for CD unit-plus white 2 wires connector under the CD unit-male and female

3.remove the heater hose which goes to the left heat exchanger so you can access the fuel lines and e.t.c. on the left side

4.disconnect the top of the fuel filter line .

5 disconnect the vacuum acu.bottom line.

6.disconnect the return line 14mm and 17mm open wrench right under the brake booster connection

7..get yourself nice floor jack with a round top-place it under the engine.I usually place it right in the middle of the strainer plate.It is a perfect ballance place - you will see later.

8.used air gun to disconnect the engine mounts bolts

9.lower the engine so you can reach over to the upper 15 mm nut one left top opposite the starter-remove it.

10 remove the 10mm allen head starter nut -while there disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle body joint

11.pull a little for the wire harness so you can see it free back up light switch and starter connections wires

12.you floor jack is placed exactly in the middle of the strainer plate 

13.lower the engine more so the muffler will clear the rear valance and pull..it will come out easy.

14 once you have the engine sitting flat-disconnected from the trans. on your jack plate lower the engine or raise the car slowly -i do not know your set up...

 

 

this is all ,next is when you are ready we will install it back

 

Ivan

 

 

 

 

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So with this method how do you undo the transmission from the engine easily and how do you slide them apart to get the input shaft out of the flywheel clutch assembly? 🤔

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it will just slide outside when you pull with your hand on the engine...been doing this for many many years;-)let`s say 39??you wiggle a little up and down and a little left and right..trust me it is easy job.....

 

Ivan

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Hi Ivan, thank you, this is just great and with all the right detail.   The only thing I thought you might say is to remove the engine cross member and mounting bracket(yoke?) to allow the engine to be pulled slightly rearward away from the gearbox.  Sounds like that isn’t necessary as there is sufficient movement to allow this to happen without removing them.  I knew this was possible as it has been done on mine before, I just didn’t know how to.  Every day is a school day, thanks Ivan

 

 

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yup,no need to remove the crossbar at all it actually helps you to hold the engine .Once you lower the engine bellow the rear valance you can pul on it.I do no tknow again,your set up.If at home and no lift remove your rear bumper...only eight nuts and disconnect the licence plate lights.

If on the lift of course, no need to remove the bumper.

Just make sure the jack plate is exactly in the middle of the strainer plate--it will stay on and it will be sitting nicely..

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This is brilliant Ivan! Ian, please post your progress as you go with plenty of pictures and it would be great if a mod could sticky this for the future :signs118:

Ian, we should have a forum sweepstake on how long it takes you :whistling:

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there is one little trick or use of it..when you are guys disconnecting the oil line 36mm , the oil line from oil pump is easy stop with an air conditioner-receiver drier-glass window, yellow screw on plug .Totally same thread and it will not leak on your floor.The other end if you have ever purchased the new oil line ,in there is a male plastic plug that goes on the oil line to the oil thermostat..i will show you pic when i get to my garage..

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3 hours ago, proporsche said:

it will just slide outside when you pull with your hand on the engine...been doing this for many many years;-)let`s say 39??you wiggle a little up and down and a little left and right..trust me it is easy job.....

 

Ivan

OK.  Just didn't think there would be the room to slide it backwards, or the space to get to the nuts/bolts holding 4th two together. Not doubting you Ivan :) 

4 minutes ago, Nige said:

Is splitting the engine and gearbox the same on a G50?

I would say not as you would have to remove the clutch fork shaft to get the two apart?

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10 minutes ago, Nige said:

Is splitting the engine and gearbox the same on a G50?

No, as I think I said earlier this is only possible on the SC

Or at least that’s what MR Performance told me...

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1 hour ago, Lesworth said:

This is brilliant Ivan! Ian, please post your progress as you go with plenty of pictures and it would be great if a mod could sticky this for the future :signs118:

Ian, we should have a forum sweepstake on how long it takes you :whistling:

You can come and watch on the day if you want.

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44 minutes ago, Type911 said:

and sheep..............

EFA

Although he is out of bounds at the moment......

Edited by Phill
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