SC engine removal

[GaryH]

3 minutes ago, Ian Comerford said:

It might be interesting to see where the torque curve is though.

That was my thinking

[Ian Comerford]

2 minutes ago, GaryH said:

That was my thinking

So we should organise an IB dyno day then......

[Ian Comerford]

I recall reading somewhere that SC cams work well in other engines, possibly earlier ones.  Does anyone know which engines are improved by fitting them as I have a set to sell? 
 

Thank you

Ian

[Jonny Hart]

For run in I kept it under 4K for 500 miles.  I made a point of going up and down the rev range and doing more engine braking than usual.   

[Ian Comerford]

Thanks Jonny, did you do an oil change at any point?

[Jonny Hart]

I can’t remember.  Probably. 

[GaryH]

Oil change after the first 500 miles ? 🤔 (been a long time since my rebuild) 

[Phill]

I was advised oil change at 1000 if I remember rightly. I suppose it depends on how much new stuff there is. I'm sure GCR will give you the correct advice Ian, you will get many different opinions and experiences on here none of which are necessarily correct for your particular circumstances and build.

[Chris T]

I would..... Peace of mind for the price of 10l of oil.

[proporsche]

Ian. i would suggest you something but it is not possible for you to do it....oil changed in 1K no reason sooner-but then again i do not know what was replaced in your engine.

 

My suggestion ,and i do it on every engine i have ever build(except Bob`s RHD- did not wanted to take a chance...Bob did 1000 miles in 2 days) i do right after starting the engine at least 300 miles non stop in which you do either camshaft break ins or piston rings break ins or all together...that is how i do it ..all my engines came out super--just ask Riviera Bob;-)))

 

Ivan

[proporsche]

right now i am working on 3 of them, things to do when corona is out there;-)

 

Ivan

[Ian Comerford]

1 hour ago, Phill said:

I was advised oil change at 1000 if I remember rightly. I suppose it depends on how much new stuff there is. I'm sure GCR will give you the correct advice Ian, you will get many different opinions and experiences on here none of which are necessarily correct for your particular circumstances and build.

Thanks Phill.  New pistons, rings, barrels, exhaust valves I guess are the main parts affected as well as all of the seals and gaskets.  I’ve got the oil for the next two changes so can do this whenever is best, just need to get a couple of filters from Matt.  

1 hour ago, Chris T said:

I would..... Peace of mind for the price of 10l of oil.

Agreed, I’ve always considered oil to be cheap maintenance and worth doing regularly with good oil. 

53 minutes ago, proporsche said:

Ian. i would suggest you something but it is not possible for you to do it....oil changed in 1K no reason sooner-but then again i do not know what was replaced in your engine.

 

My suggestion ,and i do it on every engine i have ever build(except Bob`s RHD- did not wanted to take a chance...Bob did 1000 miles in 2 days) i do right after starting the engine at least 300 miles non stop in which you do either camshaft break ins or piston rings break ins or all together...that is how i do it ..all my engines came out super--just ask Riviera Bob;-)))

 

Ivan

Thanks Ivan.  As mentioned above new barrels, pistons/rings, exhaust valves and all of the gaskets/seals.  I like the idea of doing a good long drive straight off, makes sense.

[proporsche]

yup, i did not read all of it..yes at least 300-500 round trip if you can on one shoot....and practice all the break ins;-)

 

Ivan

[Dr Rock]

5 minutes ago, proporsche said:

yup, i did not read all of it..yes at least 300-500 round trip if you can on one shoot....and practice all the break ins;-)

I went round Birmingham in one day, keeping below 4k rpm with lots of hills and engine braking, then changed the oil at 500 miles, then did another 500 miles before going back to Chris. Just do whatever Chris says to do: ignore the internet warriors.

[Ian Comerford]

Thanks Fraser, makes sense.  What was the return visit to Chris for, just  check up or was there routine re-torquing?

[Dr Rock]

Oil change @1000 miles, check over and re-torque etc.

And then rebuild the engine again 

[Ian Comerford]

25 minutes ago, Dr Rock said:

Oil change @1000 miles, check over and re-torque etc.

And then rebuild the engine again 

I wish you hadn’t told me that last bit......

[Phill]

Mine went back twice but not for rebuilds, thankfully. You'll be fine.........

[topcarrera]

At the risk of being an internet warrior  🙂 my post rebuild running in routine was as follows ........

• Basic mineral oil for whole of  running in period.
• 400 miles - keep within 4/4.5K rpm.  Continual change of engine speed, opening up and moving to upper running in rpm limit.  Avoid pottering and labouring at low rpm.  Avoid excessive load on engine.  Plenty of engine braking from 4K rpm downwards.   Check for leaks, noises etc ..
• 400 miles - change oil and replace with similar.  Raise limit to 5K.  Repeat above but putting more load on engine.  Check for leaks, noises etc ..  Let rebuilder check over.
• Oil and filter change,  good quality fully synthetic 10W50 
• Good to go!

Stating the obvious here perhaps but mileage is less relevant than engine revolutions and cycling.  Plenty of low to medium speed driving to provide up and down engine revs and cycling far more effective than racking up miles on long steady jaunts sitting at 2K rpm.  

 

Edited December 31, 2020 by topcarrera

[proporsche]

2 hours ago, Dr Rock said:

Oil change @1000 miles, check over and re-torque etc.

And then rebuild the engine again 

if i remember correctly your main bearing very poor quality ,right?

top Carrera ...all good as you said but i personally do not like fully or semi synthetic oils in these air cooled beasts;-)

 

Ivan

[Dr Rock]

40 minutes ago, proporsche said:

if i remember correctly your main bearing very poor quality ,right?

Correctamundo - not the Porsche spec bearings we thought had been installed. All put right for no cost 

[RivieraBob]

7 hours ago, proporsche said:

Ian. i would suggest you something but it is not possible for you to do it....oil changed in 1K no reason sooner-but then again i do not know what was replaced in your engine.

 

My suggestion ,and i do it on every engine i have ever build(except Bob`s RHD- did not wanted to take a chance...Bob did 1000 miles in 2 days) i do right after starting the engine at least 300 miles non stop in which you do either camshaft break ins or piston rings break ins or all together...that is how i do it ..all my engines came out super--just ask Riviera Bob;-)))

 

Ivan

Sadly it's hard to do 1000 miles in a weekend in the UK without a breakdown (mentally, not the car!). I was lucky as had Route Napoleon etc on doorstep. Engine still going strong 15k+ miles later, thanks Ivan! Bob

[GimmeShelter]

Please don't shoot me down as an internet warrior, but below is a summary of the running-in procedure that I used after my rebuild.  I've used this approach for some years now, principally on motorcycles, after reading about MotoMan on http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.  It's been very successful with the bikes, so I thought I'd experiment with the SC and find out over time if it was worth it:

Running-in oil (Miller's CRO 10/40) for the first 250 miles, using this procedure:

- first oil & filter change after 2 miles

- second oil & filter change at 20 miles

- third oil & filter change at 250 miles, at which, normal (10w40) engine oil goes in.

Then 2500 miles, or annual if that comes first, then annually after that.

With the bikes, I go touring with mates a couple of times a year.  In hot weather, their bikes burn oil, but mine don't, and my bikes return a few more mpg than theirs.   We'll see what happens with the SC!

Edited January 1, 2021 by GimmeShelter
Edited to add the website URL

[Ian Comerford]

Wow that’s quite a routine with the oil changes.  Do you find much on the sump plug magnet?

[GimmeShelter]

The sump plug magnet and the filter both tell a similar story, one for the ferrous metals and the other for the non-ferrous alloys.  If you cut the filter open after removal, at first it's rather surprising what you find, but then you realise it makes sense: I've learnt that the fine metal swarf in the filter mostly happens in the first two miles (after all, "running in" is all about removing metal until parts work smoothly together) so that the first filter change reveals fine particles of silvery metal and, in the case of a rebuilt engine, the assembly paste that the engine builder has used.  Then there's a bit less in the "20 mile" filter and nothing much at all in the "250 mile" filter.  Presumably, the oil is similarly contaminated but with even finer particles, too fine to be trapped by the filter.  So getting rid of the oil after only two miles rids the engine of this stuff.