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FrankenCIS installation on a 930 (from mechanical to digital WUR ) ??


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1 hour ago, carrpet said:

TurboKraft CHT sensor will be installed mechanically tomorrow. Exhaust has been removed ! Titanium studs and nuts do make the job nice and easy !

Wow that was quick, you only started this afternoon didn’t you.  None broken then?

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21 minutes ago, Ian Comerford said:

Wow that was quick, you only started this afternoon didn’t you.  None broken then?

I can always shear a few studs for you to drill and tap if you wish !! It took 30 minutes max to get the LH exhaust off !

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The first sensor to be installed is the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. As previously mentioned I decided to go for the TurboKraft CHT adapter which fits to CH3.

Here are the instructions (I will point out the flaws in this in a minute!). You can see the installer has given the 3mm aluminium adapter/conductor plate a fair thwack with a hammer to get that gnarled finish on the outer surface !

 

cht sensor & adapter.JPG

cht sensor & adapter 2 .JPG

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Capture 2.JPG

Edited by carrpet
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The first point to note is that there are no photographs of the adapter with the turbocharger scavenger pump installed on the end of the camshaft. If there had been you would discover that those 2 allen headed bolts you can see in the second picture, which attach the sensor adapter to the adapter "conductor plate" are jammed up against the aux oil pump meaning the adaptor cannot be removed once the oil pump is installed.

The instructions also suggest that you can install the CHT sensor with the engine in the car by following this installation process. Hmmm - there are 2 threaded inserts in the top of the tin plate and at least one of these can only be accessed from above with the engine out.

I wanted an installation which satisfied the following criteria;

1) engine in the car

2) Without removing the tin plate

3) I can remove the sensor block / sensor as one unit without removing the turbocharger scavenger pump (and without rotating the sensor 360 degrees 20 times!! against the wiring harness),  if I need to calibrate the sensor once I start commissioning micro-squirt. My understanding from my friend on Pelican is that this will be necessary.

So here is my installation

 

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Edited by carrpet
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This is how I installed the CHT adapter

  1. Remove the exhaust (you can see the Titanium nuts and the Stainless Steel hex head barrel nuts which make it very easy in one of the pictures)
  2. Marked the tip plate using a scribe and the dimensions provided by TurboKraft but extended the 4mm slot to take the full width of the inverted T shaped anodised aluminium heat conductor plate
  3. Used a dremel to cut the vertical slot
  4. Fabricated a dual layer 2* 2mm thick 318 stainless capping strip with the second 2mm layer at installed at both ends to cope with the corrugation in the tin plate which runs diagonally right through the middle of the installation slot. The countersunk screw heads are self tappers ) ground off flush at the rear) to hold the second layer in place.
  5. Tapped the two existing 5mm holes in the 3mm anodised aluminium conductor plate with a 6mm tap
  6. Drilled out the existing 4mm tapped threads in the sensor installation block to 6.5mm
  7. I could now reverse and replace the hex headed bolts with 6mm stainless bolts which I can access with the oil pump in-situ
  8. I used grey (see photos) thermal conducting grease used for computer heat sink installations for assembling the sensor adapter against the heat conductor plate.
  9. I made a 2mm stiff cardboard copy of the inverted T shaped thermal conductor plate, so that I could verify that it would install between the cylinder head fins
  10. Once I was happy that the conductor plate would fit, I coated it both sides with the conducting grease and drove it home using a small block of hardwood leaving about 1mm of the shoulders flush
  11. Installed the double layer stainless capping strip after first using a hammer and a sharp point to penetrate the tin plate ready for the dome headed self tappers. Using the sharp point gives a lot more metal for the self tappers to tap a thread into (rather than a drill). Tightening the self tappers pushed the remaining ~1mm of conductor plate firmly into the cylinder head fins making a nice neat and tight installation.
  12. Installed the sensor block onto the conductor plate with the 2 * 6mm hex headed bolts (having pre-installed the threaded temperature sensor)
  13. Job done mechanically just need to plot an optimal way through the tinplate for the sensor double-wire. The sensor wire will not reach the 2 existing oval holes in the side engine tinplate which would mean if I routed the wiring through either of these, that the sensor plug/socket would be exposed to the elements beneath the tin plate layer rather than the nice dry area above the tin plate next to the spark plugs, which would be my preference !
Edited by carrpet
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The overall plan is as follows;

  1. Procure the parts
  2. Select optimal installation point for each sensor
  3. Install all the sensors
  4. Install MicroSquirt and create wiring harness
  5. Calibrate sensors
  6. Map the existing Bosch WUR
  7. Possible rolling road to benchmark
  8. Install DWUR
  9. Re-map with MicroSquirt
  10. Possible rolling road to re-benchmark
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Electrics

I am planning to use one of the 2 spare fuses in the Engine Compartment fuse box. As I don't have a heated rear screen or rear wiper motor there are 2 fuses I can use for an "always-on" fused 12v supply

I also have an ignition switched 12v positive going to the Yellow Relay, so I plan to install a second round relay next to the "magic" yellow relay as I already have 2 pre-cut holes for a standard Porsche relay socket. I will therefore use the ignition switched 12 positive to energise the relay coil then pick up the fused 12v supply to drive microsquirt, all of the sensors and the fuel injector.

Please feel free to critique any of this as I would welcome input as we go.

 

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I have a question !

I am going to use the 0 - 5V analogue outputs from my AEM fuel pressure and UEGO gauges to interface with microsquirt.

As I am running these  lines from under the dashboard to the rear of the car, can I use the same wire and connect the two zero volts lines from each of the gauges, on my wiring harness ?

Edited by carrpet
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