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50 Shades of Black


Drifter65

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I received a box of goodies today from Type911. I only ordered them yesteday and they are already unpacked.

Included black alloy wheel nuts and a new set of locking wheel nuts. My Fuchs need a freshen up as they have a gloss black finish and I can see some red lurking beneath on at least three of them. I would like give them a tidy up and to return them to a satin black finish. I was wondering if there is a paint code for the satin black or if a close match is readily available in a rattle can? I have a can of Autoglym but not sure if its suitable for the job? I'm not obsessed about originality more looking for jobs to occupy me during enforced confinement.

The centre caps appear to have been polished and I would appreciate if someone could confirm that the image is just a standard cap thats been polished rather than something rarer before I rip into it and paint it?

as always thoughts and feedback appreciated,

Charlie

 

IMG_0119.JPG

 

Edited by Drifter65
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I used Wurth branded satin black, recommended here but TBH it seemed as good as most others, no better. Quality of masking/prep/spraying probably count for more as well as a nice warm dust-free spray booth. I quite like the caps polished, why not try them on the car and paint them later if you don't.

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Thanks for the oder! I have painted 3 or 4 sets with that Autoglym paint, its fine and looks good.

Difficult to say about those hubcaps, they could be original or could have been polished by a previous owner. If you like the look go over them with wet n dry to tify them up, if not paint them black

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Many thanks for the feedback. I've been looking at them for a few years and haven't warmed to the polished look. The Autoglym satin matt will be getting a run out. Agreed that as with most things the quality of the prep will be a major factor. Have been looking at some of the threads on stripping back the current paint so will post some images once I start the prep.

 

 

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The Autoglym satin black is lovely stuff when it's on. My only advice would be that it seems to come out of the rattle can almost dry so you need to hold it closer than normal to your surface to get a really even finish. Must be high solids content. Do a test run first.

Al.

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I have one of those Clarke garages for a landrover project. Disappointingly damp! Condensation seems to be the biggest issue. I have just bought a second door panel so I can open both ends and get more air flow. 

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The standard black finish of the centre caps polish up to look like the on in your picture.  Provided you don't hit the paint with chemical the black finish remains in the low spots.  I used a DA sander with increasing finer grade pads, keep the pad fully across the details so not to dig in.  Then buffed them up to a shine on a polishing wheel attached to a drill.

If your centres have been paint before I'd test an area for paint reaction.  The time consuming part is masking so no point in wasting that effort if the paint reacts and you then have to remove the old and new paint to start again.  To be honest I strip whatever is on there anyway and either get it back to the aluminium or at least the factory anodising.  Then be sure to use an etch primer.

Also electrical tape is great for masking the outer edge as you can flex it to the curve better than normal masking tape.

I just used a satin black from my local car shop, think it was Simoniz brand, 2-3 big cans should be enough.

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As my wheels only had the remains of the factory finish, I just took them down as much as possible with heavy duty scouring pads from the supermarket, and sprayed the Halfords straight on to that.

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3 hours ago, Flat 6 said:

I have one of those Clarke garages for a landrover project. Disappointingly damp! Condensation seems to be the biggest issue. I have just bought a second door panel so I can open both ends and get more air flow. 

Yep, I'm struggling with condensation as well. I had a cotton cover on it during the summer but have removed it as it was just adding to the problem. Once I've serviced it and fresh boots fitted I think it will be heading back into its carcoon. Bit of a faff but will hopefully avoid condensation issues. 

2 hours ago, Nige said:

The standard black finish of the centre caps polish up to look like the on in your picture.  Provided you don't hit the paint with chemical the black finish remains in the low spots.  I used a DA sander with increasing finer grade pads, keep the pad fully across the details so not to dig in.  Then buffed them up to a shine on a polishing wheel attached to a drill.

If your centres have been paint before I'd test an area for paint reaction.  The time consuming part is masking so no point in wasting that effort if the paint reacts and you then have to remove the old and new paint to start again.  To be honest I strip whatever is on there anyway and either get it back to the aluminium or at least the factory anodising.  Then be sure to use an etch primer.

Also electrical tape is great for masking the outer edge as you can flex it to the curve better than normal masking tape.

I just used a satin black from my local car shop, think it was Simoniz brand, 2-3 big cans should be enough.

Thanks for the advice. I will probably have a test on the centres and see how it goes. I think all of the old paint needs to come off and I can see some red lurking on the edges of the petals. 

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