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Strobe light not flashing - how to bench test?


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For some reason my timing light is not flashing. It is picking up the signal from the No.1 plug lead because it is measuring RPM but when I flick it to timing it's not flashing.

I want to dismantle and inspect but does anyone know if I can simulate flashing on the bench?

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So a little reading would suggest that the light should flash regardless, when you pull the trigger?

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  • johndglynn changed the title to Strobe light not flashing - how to bench test?

Got a new one now :D The company couldn't repair it so got a replacement at cost.

I did the Golf timing yesterday. Not sure I did it right but it seems to be running better...............

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dont forget to time at max advance (6000rpm), yeah its a little scary but from memory a vw golf gti was the same with no idle timing actually provided in the manual...

In any case do it at max, or at 5000 if your chicken (and retard a few degrees). The purpose of it is to allow from some slack/wear in the dizzy (and of course to be sure its not over advanced!). The idle timing is really just a basic "initial" setting to be sure it will run, then max advance for the final timing, leaving it where ever it then rests at idle (i.e the slack/wear bit)

P.s it sounds like you sorted your light, but with some, i have found quite simply there were a bit dim, and needed a not so bright workspace to see them. 

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Type911 said:

In any case do it at max, or at 5000 if your chicken (and retard a few degrees).

 

You've met Phill then?

 

Retarded chicken, is that what you are saying :lol::o

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I've got through 3 timing lights in 3 years partly because I use them as part of our CDI test rig.  I used to buy the EQUUS ones with the RPM gauge ( about £150?) but now go for the cheaper one without the RPM (£35?).  Pretty sure it's the charging circuit that goes but they are not easily repairable.  

Trivia - the circuit that fires the strobe is very similar to the circuit that fires the spark in a CDI.  So if you have a CDI car, you are testing a CDI with a CDI!

11 hours ago, Strictly said:

dont forget to time at max advance (6000rpm), yeah its a little scary but from memory a vw golf gti was the same with no idle timing actually provided in the manual...

In any case do it at max, or at 5000 if your chicken (and retard a few degrees). The purpose of it is to allow from some slack/wear in the dizzy (and of course to be sure its not over advanced!). The idle timing is really just a basic "initial" setting to be sure it will run, then max advance for the final timing, leaving it where ever it then rests at idle (i.e the slack/wear bit)

P.s it sounds like you sorted your light, but with some, i have found quite simply there were a bit dim, and needed a not so bright workspace to see them. 

 

 

 

You don't need to go quite so high - the weights are 'all out' at about 4000 on most 911s.

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1 hour ago, Phill said:

Retarded chicken, is that what you are saying :lol::o

I was working on my 914 a few weeks ago, trying to set the CO as it was about 12% and made your eyes bleed......................................some helpful chap walked past and said "too rich and retarded"........................cheeky fecker!

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1 hour ago, Type911 said:

I was working on my 914 a few weeks ago, trying to set the CO as it was about 12% and made your eyes bleed......................................some helpful chap walked past and said "too rich and retarded"........................cheeky fecker!

Didn’t know you were a ‘teener’?   Have you got a thread on it?

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2 hours ago, Jonny Hart said:

I've got through 3 timing lights in 3 years partly because I use them as part of our CDI test rig.  I used to buy the EQUUS ones with the RPM gauge ( about £150?) but now go for the cheaper one without the RPM (£35?).  Pretty sure it's the charging circuit that goes but they are not easily repairable.  

Trivia - the circuit that fires the strobe is very similar to the circuit that fires the spark in a CDI.  So if you have a CDI car, you are testing a CDI with a CDI!

You don't need to go quite so high - the weights are 'all out' at about 4000 on most 911s.

I had a few engines which were 35@5000 and 38@6000, thereafter I just timed at 5000 (35), as also a little chicken, there was defo still advance above 4000. I cant remember how much might have just been 1-3 degrees. I also experimented with 32 to 38 @ 6000, I cant remember what I preferred most, as that particular car is gone, but i dont think i always ran it at 38, probably choosing 35 for a bit of safety

With vw engines (T1,T2,T4), i didn't used to bother with a RPM check, as they clearly maxed out around 3000-3500, and i would just rev it till the timing stayed still, then moved the dizzy so it was 30-32 depending on how I was feeling at the time. . 

I'll try the 4000 next time, but for anyone new to this, whether you use idle or etc, take it to 6000 as a final check as per the factory manuals/specs, checking 4000 and 5000 as you go, you'll then be able to decide for your own motor/dizzy combo what you can use next time for quick checks....

P.S

Not necessary for timing/CIS,

but

for anyone spending a while tuning zenith/weber/pmo carbs etc, buy a 3m length of silicone ply hot air hose the same as the red hot air hose between the end of the heat exchanger and the car heater boxes, and put it over your exhaust tail pipe to direct all the fumes away from you. You can pick up 3m length etc on ebay. Measure your exhaust tip first. Ive spent too many hours on those zeniths getting 'em all flowing the same. 

 

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