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Alternator & Fan Refurb


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4 minutes ago, PeterK said:

Just rebuild it yourself and wrap with loom tape.

 

If you don’t want to make the replacement main cable, I have an original thick red wire, removed when I fitted a Classic Retrofit hi-power alternator.

If you want to go this way, just cover the postage, Chris.

Thanks for your offer Peter. Do you mind me asking how old the cable is? I only ask as my car is an 88 and I think I'll make up a new one rather than replace with an old cable.

Did you drop the engine (partial) to get the cable out?

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It’s a’79 SC & the engine was out as part of my bare metal resto.

 

I would recommend making a new cable, and I would go oversize (just in case a bigger alternator was in your future).  The only drawback is trying to drag the cable through the rubber block / grommet thing that sits on the rearmost tinware (at least on the SC).

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7 minutes ago, PeterK said:

It’s a’79 SC & the engine was out as part of my bare metal resto.

 

I would recommend making a new cable, and I would go oversize (just in case a bigger alternator was in your future).  The only drawback is trying to drag the cable through the rubber block / grommet thing that sits on the rearmost tinware (at least on the SC).

I agree.

Not sure if the SC harness is the same but on the 3.2 everything is routed through grey oversize plastic outer tubing.

I'll get the existing wire off the car and measure up what I need.

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If its just the insulation thats degraded with heat, can't you just rewrap the existing cable with loom tape Chris? Get rid of the manky stuff first.

Or, a proper job would be to remove that short bit of engine loom and heat shrink those cables with the appropriate colour heat shrink sleeve. £'s instead of hundreds. 

Edited by Busybee
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19 minutes ago, Busybee said:

If its just the insulation thats degraded with heat, can't you just rewrap the existing cable with loom tape Chris? Get rid of the manky stuff first.

Or, a proper job would be to remove that short bit of engine loom and heat shrink those cables with the appropriate colour heat shrink sleeve. £'s instead of hundreds. 

The existing cable is toast Haith - needs replacing.

I've looked back at the pictures of the work I did last year when I had the intakes off and I can now see that that red cable is burned all the way back to the firewall. There are other cables which run with it which may also be damaged.

Currently I am thinking of buying a new harness and doing the job once, and properly.

Remember the car is 33 years old and nothing lasts forever.

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33 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

The existing cable is toast Haith - needs replacing.

I've looked back at the pictures of the work I did last year when I had the intakes off and I can now see that that red cable is burned all the way back to the firewall. There are other cables which run with it which may also be damaged.

Currently I am thinking of buying a new harness and doing the job once, and properly.

Remember the car is 33 years old and nothing lasts forever.

True that. Plastics are the problem. Great for a few years under heat cycles but they loose their elasticity and crack as you've found. I'm no sparky so I stand to be corrected but I bet the actual copper will be fine. Re-sheath and they'll be good for another 30 years. 

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35 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

Currently I am thinking of buying a new harness and doing the job once, and properly.

IIRC some of the wiring is NLA....well it was when I thinking of repairing my car. :twocents:

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9 minutes ago, Dr Rock said:

IIRC some of the wiring is NLA....well it was when I thinking of repairing my car. :twocents:

Kroon Wiring Harnesses list one and say they have it in stock (though am checking directly):

https://www.kroonwireharnesses.com/porsche-911/porsche-911-1988?product_id=529

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My main concern would be what has caused the heat in the first place. That is not normal. There is no point in replacing the cable for it simply to fail again. 

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4 minutes ago, Phill said:

My main concern would be what has caused the heat in the first place. That is not normal. There is no point in replacing the cable for it simply to fail again. 

Agreed Phill.

The guys on Pelican suggest it has either seen reverse polarity at some point or there is a short to ground somewhere.

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56 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

Agreed Phill.

The guys on Pelican suggest it has either seen reverse polarity at some point or there is a short to ground somewhere.

Maybe solved with the alternator refurb?

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4 minutes ago, Phill said:

Maybe solved with the alternator refurb?

I'm doubtful, but I guess it is possible. I'll have to have a look at the old alternator parts and see if they give any clues.

My car wasn't showing any electrical problems at all prior to removal of the alternator.

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Bet with all the pukka connectors, sleeves and widgets the parts add up, then if you factor in a few hours of your own time.  Maybe need to buy some soldering kit it's not far off £400, maybe?  Chris's car is pristine so it probably deserves it :)

That crappy plastic main engine loom plug is about £40

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49 minutes ago, Wingnonut said:

Is that the Kroon one Chris? Seems awful spendy!!!!

Yes that's from Kroon.

I have ordered one.

I don't think it's unreasonable - you start adding up the individual bits and it escalates quickly. It seems like a good quality product.

I shall find out - hopefully soon.

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Although an expense I could well have done without I'm convinced that replacing the whole wiring harness was the right call.

I think this one has some tales to tell.

911-100-4.thumb.jpg.f75797d217bdb2e3f69b91b2a9b0e94b.jpg911-104.thumb.jpg.1cad9627456ee27efb6050e93bf0f92f.jpg911-103-2.thumb.jpg.27f17f415aa11fba37d08d41ea6660e0.jpg911-102-3.jpg.e92517df50aeeec027fb0157793a5cd5.jpg911-101-4.jpg.06763652a427f77d1b1098520eb3a51d.jpg

I need to modify the yellow wire to the starter to match my non-standard high torque starter - needs lengthening a little and fitting with a spade connector.

911-120-2.jpg.22d297785a242bf503d3288f8a27aab8.jpg

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