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Posted

Flying tonight, k-jet sensor plate stripped for cleaning more!

Remove circlips, cover plate and seals from body at axle point. Note spring is only on one side. Remove the counter-balance screw to release shaft and drift out gently .

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Careful when removing fuel pump stop/run grounding bridge to not lose the insulation collar on the screw.

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This is the needle bearing roller that contacts the plunger from the fuel metering valve.....not sure it would appreciate a vapour blasting cabinet....easy to remove by drifting out the pin..think ultra sonic cleaner for this.

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Posted
25 minutes ago, fat fuchs said:

Excellent work and super informative thread too. Good man👍

Thanks very much!

Posted (edited)

Mmmmmmmm clean

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so remounting the needle roller was fun, first i cleaned it with brake clean....so there was no oil to hold it together!!!

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Tricky.....so used the axle to repack the needles and added a little light gear oil to stop them falling out. Then used a 4.9mm drill to hold the roller in place and tapped the axle pin back home with a small tapometer....

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obviously i forgot the second copper retaining washer and had to repeat the process!

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replace adjuster and position in metering arm.

Then replace the fixed ball with a small amount of grease (like that when removed) oring with silicone grease, plate and circlip.

Clean the axle with scotchbrite ( housing  pivot bushes already cleaned) insert shaft. This can be tricky,  use thin plastic wedge in behind to support the arm against the housing as you tap the shaft in.

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Then the second ball with spring, plate and circlip, compress with g-clamp and use 90deg circlip pliers to install.

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Then adjust the position of the arm on the shaft, replace counterweight and screw to secure to shaft.

Take your time and you won't have to adjust the sensor plate 

Tidy

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Then replace the bridge being super careful that the insulator is going through the contact plate, otherwise you'll have problems with the fuel pump.

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And be aware, insulating washer is installed opposite side to the plug.

The other side has just the metal washer

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Happy with that, off to cook dinner

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Edited by Gezzer
Wrong photo order
  • Like 3
Posted

Lasagna and salad

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New foam seal

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replated bolts and springs

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shiny throttle body

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Well this intake boot is just a complete b******d to fit. So I'm trying this to stretch it in the right direction.....watch this space!!

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i could get the metering end on but absolutely no way to get the throttle one over properly.....any tips anyone??

Posted

So studs are back and on to the next problem!!

When stripped the engine was fitted with head gasket/ring/spacer (whatever you want to call it!

They are not fitted to the early turbo's (where the barrels were scavenged from) but to late 3.3 C2s. Early turbo's have no head seal, straight heads to barrels.

I've been told they shouldn't be there,  no idea if they are original as for sure this motor has been apart before.

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They foul on the studs ( but that's another story)

No evidence on the heads or deck of machining so I've no idea why they were there! According to the manual these parts wouldn't have been available until '89, 10years after this was built!

So.....built up a cylinder  (no gasket a la turbo) with a head without valve springs and measured the valve piston clearance

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Is this sufficient clearance?


INTAKE
-10deg 4.12mm
TDC 3.6mm
+10deg 4.2 mm

EXHAUST
-10deg 4.46mm
TDC 4.0mm
+10deg 4.6mm

Been hunting through various books and websites trying to find some figures.

I have a set of Dougherty 964 grind cams i want to install, anyone gave much experience with timing these?

The only paperwork for this engine says to set the cam at 0.9-1.1, i'm presuming they mean mm of intake valve displacement at TDC.....

I guess I'll have to measure the compression ratio next......off to educate myself:-)
 

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Posted

So heads and barrels measured and found bang-on spec, gasket/spacers disposed of!

Studs painted with cerakote 

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Cylinders mounted with standard .25 foot gasket, circlips are an absolute joy to fit .....no magic stromski tool for me!!

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More jigsaw puzzle, my disassembly photos have been an absolute god-save!

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First head

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3 heads!!

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Balance the force!

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Good mornings work.

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  • Like 2
Posted
18 hours ago, Phill said:

There have been some clean engine builds documented on here but this just on another level, fabulous work :signs85:

Thanks Phil, very nice of you to say

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

squeezed a couple of hours in...

Injector buckets

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They went in easy, you must ensure you've cleaned the old staking properly otherwise they will tear the ring when you fit them.

Also peen very gently, the aluminium is super soft

Then the big push, on with the Cam-Housing

Clean clean clean clean clean and more cleaning, use the king of solvents for the best bond!

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574  by choice, not entering a debate here!!

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Don't forget the oil return tubes.........it was very close....seconds from disaster !

Copious amounts of Molycote O-ring grease and they slipped in nicely.......ooh err

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Then watch out for these bas****ds, if you've plated all your hardware like me......you'll notice that there are a few M8 nuts that are NOT 13mm but 12mm!! ( no idea where they come from)

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Then smash it on!!

New spring washers and torque it up lovely, not forgetting to make sure the head nuts are lose at this point.

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Perfect squish! Very happy with that!

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Other side tonight!

 

 

 

Edited by Gezzer
  • Like 3
Posted

Rockers back from the UK, rebushed, faces polished, drilled and honed. New pins also

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New adjusters and lock bolts

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smash bang wallop....lovely....ready for install 

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  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

i wonder why you shipped stuff to England if you can have it done in south France??

Somewhere above you wondered why 12mm nut.Those go on intake

 

Ivan

Edited by proporsche
Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, proporsche said:

i wonder why you shipped stuff to England if you can have it done in south France??

Somewhere above you wondered why 12mm nut.Those go on intake

 

Ivan

Hi Ivan,

I tried to use a shop down here and it was just a nightmare, they say they can do everything and then its just a mess.

They helicoiled the exhaust stud hole when i asked them specifically not to.......my heads came back still covered in grinding paste, spring platform shims completely wrong, couldn't drill a valve guide straight, came out the side, hit the casting and then covered it up with plastic metal stuff, bent the valve springs!!!  ripped the tooth of the intermediate chain gear........absolutely atrocious 

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Must say, that valve spring set came from RosePassion and they're absolute bull***t. The springs are not even progressive. But sure as s**t they weren't bent when i gave them to the workshop.

The guy had all the tech data supplied by me and video links etc etc

So after that harrowing experience i use shops in the UK that are professional.  It's not rocket science, just straight forward machine shop work. I work with guys from Chester that fly up and down every week so transport and french customs isn't a problem.  For the big stuff like the crank i send with ParcelMonkey and collect with my car when i go up for the summer. Absolute zero hassle sending stuff into the UK as long as you do your paperwork correctly........but getting it back to France is another matter.....

I was so upset i stopped for at least a year, then stated again from scratch.

If you have a reputable workshop down here please let me know.......cause from my first hand experience its extremely expensive and the quality is 💩.........and i've lived here a long time.....and now i need a body-shop and i'm mega nervous!!!

 

Thanks a million for the 12mm nut info......i was scratching my head on that one!!

Cheers

Steve

 

Edited by Gezzer
update text
Posted

So i've got the heads all torqued down and the cams in. I bought these 964 grind Dougherty cams of another IB gentleman unused some years back.

Cleaned up the retainer with some fine wet-n-dry and bolted in with new seal and spring washer.

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Then on with sprockets etc and set up to check the end float.......0.25mm....im thinking that this is bit excessive.

I need to replace the sprockets anyway but how to reduce the end float? I guess by replacing the retainers and the thrust spacer?

 

 

Posted
1 minute ago, Gezzer said:

Hi Ivan,

I tried to use a shop down here and it was just a nightmare, they say they can do everything and then its just a mess.

They helicoiled the exhaust stud hole when i asked them specifically not to.......my heads came back still covered in grinding paste, spring platform shims completely wrong, couldn't drill a valve guide straight, came out the side, hit the casting and then covered it up with plastic metal stuff, bent the valve springs!!!  ripped the tooth of the intermediate chain gear........absolutely atrocious 

20220618_103423.thumb.jpg.15457b6237976e06fa8f933d2131c6f8.jpg 20220618_110629.thumb.jpg.fb1486fd1e67ee394fc503e1e7c24c43.jpgc20220618_142051.thumb.jpg.cf436064c87f47f4396de1e99687b983.jpg

Must say, that valve spring set came from RosePassion and they're absolute bull***t. The springs are not even progressive. But sure as s**t they weren't bent when i gave them to the workshop.

The guy had all the tech data supplied by me and video links etc etc

So after that harrowing experience i use shops in the UK that are professional.  It's not rocket science, just straight forward machine shop work. I work with guys from Chester that fly up and down every week so transport and french customs isn't a problem.  For the big stuff like the crank i send with ParcelMonkey and collect with my car when i go up for the summer. Absolute zero hassle sending stuff into the UK as long as you do your paperwork correctly........but getting it back to France is another matter.....

I was so upset i stopped for at least a year, then stated again from scratch.

If you have a reputable workshop down here please let me know.......cause from my first hand experience its extremely expensive and the quality is 💩.........and i've lived here a long time.....and now i need a body-shop and i'm mega nervous!!!

 

Thanks a million for the 12mm nut info......i was scratching my head on that one!!

 

Well, good enough reason,but..If you would know Caruso in pegomas.Cannes you would most likely be happy with their help and work...Andre is great and his dad Joseph is one of the best oldtimers 911 mechanic....https://www.garage-caruso-cannes.com/ i`m pretty sure they would help with whatever you will need.They did great job on Riviera Bob`s cylinder heads,(cutting groove on 3,2) when i did his engine in France.

'say hello from me from czech rep. 

 

Ivan

the 12mm nut should actually have special lock on top(do not know the name of it0 i take a picture for you , i have some in the garage.Also personally i do not like the zink on nuts.Everybody lately does that.The problem i have that most of the time you have rethreads the threads ,ball joint for throttle are always kaput..Originally the hardware is supposed to be cadmium...Those you can get on amazon or places like this...https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/finish~cadmium-plated/

i`m doing 930 transmission and i have to get those because this 930 will be going concourse quality and if some potential buyer will see zink..not good;-)))

bl1r.jpg

Posted

Caruso good folk - also http://www.hprs.fr in Cannes- Eic Pinel used to look after my 2.7/ when I lived down there.

Posted
14 minutes ago, anglophone1 said:

Caruso good folk - also http://www.hprs.fr in Cannes- Eic Pinel used to look after my 2.7/ when I lived down there.

well,Joseph use to employ this dude..he might be ok since he learned from him;-)...

Ivan

  • Haha 1
Posted

Some machine shops have the ability to feck up what seem to be the simplest of tasks.....before taking to Caruso Cannes for some finishing work, we used a place near Munich (long painful story!) who had a great rep, managed to charge a fortune, but sadly plenty of parts then needed cleaning and re tapping etc.  Was the most stressful part of the rebuild.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the recommendations guys, whilst I've still got free transport to the UK I'll be using Headshop in Warrington and Fiennes in the Cotswolds as they are excellent and super professional.

They answer the phone, they answer email, they give you a quote when you ask for it and they do what they say they'll do when they say they'll do it.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 13/12/2023 at 06:36, Gezzer said:

They answer the phone, they answer email, they give you a quote when you ask for it and they do what they say they'll do when they say they'll do it.

What a revolutionary new concept- unlikely to become mainstream IMO

c

  • Haha 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So i had some bits arrived....

New camshaft retainer plate and thrust washers, now the end float is lovely!

 

Happy with that.....

but.........it never lasts long....

Went to change the idler sprockets but the axles are worn.......on order thankfully not too expensive....

Check out this chain box....I never noticed before...the lower chain tensioner stud has previously been replaced with what looks like a 10mm threaded bar/stud and the old tensioner had been drilled out to accommodate .......butchers, who on earth does such a thing............what we call in the aviation industry " Gash "  .........trying not to cry 🤣

 

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New pressure-fed tensioner.........this is deffintly not going to fit...and i'm not drilling out a 300 euro tensioner to make it fit.....back to the drawing board

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So I've found a replacement on eBay for around 90 bucks, ill keep my fingers crossed as a new one is mega-bucks..got to be worth a punt!

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You really need a strong constitution to rebuild these things......

 

 

 

  • Like 2

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