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Posted

Hello all,

 need some advice here, my 3.2  has cosmetic paint bubbling on the Rear bumper, Engine cover, and the lower quarter panel. The colour is solid Black, A1 L700. I have tried painting panels using colour matched Aerosol can, the result  would only be acceptable Orange peel seller from fifty yards away,at night.

   Picked up a Devilbiss gun , (will only be using 1k paint for originality and safety ) but has anyone managed to effect a proper bodyshop quality respray at home garage?  

 

                                                                                                                    cheers Angus

Posted

The DeVilbiss FLG gets great reviews from those who know about these things, I think it was Gunman on YT that rated it very highly even in the company of others costing four or five times as much. A decent gun makes a real difference.

Ambient temperature plays a big part, if you can't do anything about that in the working area stick to fair weather projects.

Ideally you'd blast then etch prime your bumper first, but you might not be planning to do the whole thing.

Air pressure and plentiful supply is also important. Get a mini pressure gauge on the gun itself for accuracy. Talk to a local car paint supplier, often they are generous with their knowledge and advice. Really it's just educating yourself on process, and then a little practice to dial in your technique.  Fade thinners for blending, and read up a bit on flatting back if you need to.

Lots of set up advice on YT, Gunman and also Paint Society.

 

Posted (edited)

Calling @PeterK
 

I’ve had good results on smaller parts like bumpers, wheels and trims. I have a sealey gun which is pretty good but devilbiss are supposed to be the best. I like working with a “touch up” gun which is basically a miniature spray gun. 
It takes time and practice to get the settings right, you will need to practice on a spare panel first.

Edited by Phill
Posted

Yes, possible.  I did my bare metal painting in my garage.

I used a Devilbiss FLG for my primer and a GTI Pro Lite for top coats.   I built a tent within my garage (stapled decorators' plastic sheets to the ceiling and walls), then cleaned and dampened the floors.

 

3.2s were painted in Glasurit weren't they (2 pack, 2k).  I used 2k, but I do have extra filtration and an airfed mask.  If you remove the parts, you could always spray it outdoors, but I'd still use a decent filter mask.

 

For panels, I used epoxy primer, then top coat.  For the aluminium bumpers, I used etch primer, undercoat and top coat.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm spraying cellulose paint. I;ve not yet cracked how to have a "proper bodyshop" finish but I am confident I will get there over time. I am told for cellulose it is 95% prep, the rest is gun set up, thinner ratio and spraying technique. No lacquer, just straight gloss. 

I use lechler epoxy primer which is "2k", but for safety i'm not going to touch any 2k paint with isocyanate. I read that it is mostly the lacquers/hardeners which have the isocyanate. Even if the 2k paint makes for an easier overall job. I have read too much on it to work with airborne isocynante. I know that it is in most polyurethane products (i.e seam sealers, expanding foam etc). 

I use an air fed mask (3m jupiter/versaflo - lithium battery pack) which I also use for welding, grinding etc (just change to the appropriate helmet for each). Its probally overkill for the paint I use, but I have it so why not use it

I am using an apollo (turbine) electric HVLP paint sprayer. I like that, as there is no water/oil from the compressor. 

Once I dial in how to do a full home DIY "body shop quality job", i will post a full procedure from prep right through to final finish. unfortunatley it more welding for me right now, so its unlikely I will focus on it until this time next year. 

 

Posted

Thanks for all you advice guys. Rich your car looks simply stunning! Did not realize they came from factory with 2 Pack,will look out for you posts Strictly.

 

              regards Angus

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