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Posted
1 hour ago, alastair said:

Is that Hand metres? 😉

ops sorry typo mistake.... 18Nm....

Ivan

2 hours ago, sopor said:

If only he knew!?

Well? it was no secret ,the family knew....plus he does not drive his too often;-)

Posted

…. FYI, I did Valve clearances this summer - with somewhat apprehension!

However, it wasn’t anywhere near as bad as I had thought - once you get going.  You seem to be exactly on the right path - I had the stomski valve lash tool with a dial indicator and the ‘special bent feeler gauge’. Ultimately, if the feeler gauge fits in, you have not done it too tight. Whilst I’m sure the ‘back to front method’ works, I didn’t have any problems with the usual approach. However, on first attempt, I thought it was almost impossible with the feeler gauge!
It is hard to explain in words the experience you quickly build as you go along - but just have a go and you will be ok…. and you can always redo them until you are satisfied. The rocker arm will move slightly when adjusted correctly - and you will quickly develop this feel.

I had a very long 19mm spanner on the end of the crankshaft - it made turning the engine over super easy.  I just went along all the inlets valves first in sequence (turning it 240 degrees?)  and then switched to the other bank, then repeated on the exhaust. For me, I found this easier than keep switching all the  tools and torches from ontop to under the car.

Marking the distributor also helped - to be assurred the rotor arm was pointing to the right cylinder did  provide assurance.  I also fitted silicone lined lower gaskets which further mitigates any leaks.

I think I did them all 3 times by the time I was fully confident.  By the final time, I was readjusting very few . Also, by taking the valve covers off, it gave me a much better understanding of how the engine worked - you will fully understand your initial dilemma of where all the bits went! I am now confident to do them just the feeler - and I didn’t break any!
Hope the above gives you some confidence for the task .

M.

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks for that.

Yes, the more I have thought about it and worked it through in my head along with Ivan's words of encouragement, I am overcoming my apprehension with valve clearances.

I have someone coming out to fit the rear screen on Tuesday (hopefully) so will leave it until after that as it will be easier if the car is still sitting on all four wheels.

After that, I will get it up on axle stands with the rear wheels off and get stuck in.

I'm just not sure whether to replace all rocker shafts, bolts and tapered bushes/ nuts whilst I am in there.

I think I will wait to see whether any other shafts have "walked" (to use the forum terminology of our American cousins) once I get the other rocker covers off before making a final decision.

I may have some more pictures to share.....

Posted
8 hours ago, alastair said:

Thanks for that.

Yes, the more I have thought about it and worked it through in my head along with Ivan's words of encouragement, I am overcoming my apprehension with valve clearances.

I have someone coming out to fit the rear screen on Tuesday (hopefully) so will leave it until after that as it will be easier if the car is still sitting on all four wheels.

After that, I will get it up on axle stands with the rear wheels off and get stuck in.

I'm just not sure whether to replace all rocker shafts, bolts and tapered bushes/ nuts whilst I am in there.

I think I will wait to see whether any other shafts have "walked" (to use the forum terminology of our American cousins) once I get the other rocker covers off before making a final decision.

I may have some more pictures to share.....

As i have mentioned Do not need to replace the bolts and washer.When i rebuild engines, all that stuff goes back ..

 

Ivan

also to turn the engine just use the alternator nut ,if the belt is a little loose use you finger and push on the belt a little and it will spin

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