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Posted

Its easy Chris, I can't remember it being particularly difficult and it was the first time I had done anything like that.  Just need a little external pressure when refitting so you pull the rubber over.  I'm sure a man of your skills will sort it no problem.

I used a trampoline spring tool for pulling the rubber over the lip.  To remove just peel the rubber over the lip and it'll just pop out.  Various plastic trim/levering tools are good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Trampoline-Spring-Pull-Unbreakable/dp/B08ZCWMZLZ/ref=asc_df_B08ZCWMZLZ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=518630616955&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17340672158573378176&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006467&hvtargid=pla-1296384651348&psc=1&mcid=51df8e9dc32f31b8bee736f78b6ba0ca

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Posted

Thanks Nige.

Looks like I just need to dive right in!

@Nige one other question - do you know how the aluminium trim piece that sits below the window on the exterior is secured? 

It doesn't look to be secured in a similar way to the trim pieces on the doors, which just pull off.

Posted

Also, any tips on where and how to start?

Just been out to the garage to see if I could get it started and, well, no.....

Posted
1 hour ago, Chris_911 said:

Thanks Nige.

Looks like I just need to dive right in!

@Nige one other question - do you know how the aluminium trim piece that sits below the window on the exterior is secured? 

It doesn't look to be secured in a similar way to the trim pieces on the doors, which just pull off.

I think there are little self tapping screws Chris.

31 minutes ago, Chris_911 said:

Also, any tips on where and how to start?

Just been out to the garage to see if I could get it started and, well, no.....

Start at the b pillar, and attach that part of the rubber seal and then work backwards towards the rear, pulling the paracord as you go - are you using cord to pull the lip of the seal over the window aperture?

  • Like 1
Posted

There was a thread on this recently. Many people say it’s easy but I found it one the hardest jobs I’ve done on the 911. Hopefully you will be one of the lucky ones ;)

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Lesworth said:

I think there are little self tapping screws Chris.

Start at the b pillar, and attach that part of the rubber seal and then work backwards towards the rear, pulling the paracord as you go - are you using cord to pull the lip of the seal over the window aperture?

Thanks Les. Need to get it out first though.....

Posted

Im a little rusty, but from memory on my SC cthere were 4 screws which went from near the back to the rear quarter window into the B post. After that, it was just a case of gradually prying it out, complete with entire seal around the window. I don't recall it being too difficult to get out. Getting back in could be another matter!

For the opening version, same 4 screws, but of course you also have to unscrew the handle which allows you to open the rear quarters. Then probally some more prying. Its been a little while, but certainly the opening type was easy to go out then back in. 

 

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Posted

I don't recall having any issues removing mine Chris although I did cut the seal as I will be replacing it when refitting.

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Posted

Yes B pillar back, and just lever the rubber out over the lip.  I reused all the rubber.  The trim is screw in a couple of places and may also have some gloop under it too.

Think you need remove a bit of interior trim as well.

 

Trampoline spring tool is way easier than cord.

  • Like 1
Posted
43 minutes ago, Nige said:

Trampoline spring tool is way easier than cord.

I had to google that Nige. Good tip!

PS: I am now trying to erase the image of you on a trampoline.

Posted
30 minutes ago, Lesworth said:

PS: I am now trying to erase the image of you on a trampoline.

Store in your "w*nk bank" bro.

  • Haha 3
Posted

'tis out!

No corrosion found, though I'll paint the body lip with some epoxy for good measure.

Think I need to replace the seal though.

Curiously the glass has a crust of some kind of sealant around the periphery. It's patchy, hard and grey. Most of it seems to be left behind in the seal. Tuthill strikes again??

Did Porsche use anything on the glass? In the process of doing my door refresh I replaced the butyl sealant around the periphery of the vent window. I would have expected to see something similar on the rear window.

Posted
17 minutes ago, Nige said:

I used the tape sealant as found/used on the front wings.  I may have some left some if you want?

 

https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/7723

Just checked, I have almost a full roll.  PM me you address and post a few metres to you.

 

Thanks for the offer Nige - it's quite expensive stuff.

Found some on Amazon which I ordered. Goes under the aluminium trim at the bottom.

No idea what has been (very badly) applied to the glass. Tuthill was the last to remove this window.

Posted

'tis out!

No corrosion found, though I'll paint the body lip with some epoxy for good measure.

Think I need to replace the seal though.

Curiously the glass has a crust of some kind of sealant around the periphery. It's patchy, hard and grey. Most of it seems to be left behind in the seal. Tuthill strikes again??

Did Porsche use anything on the glass? In the process of doing my door refresh I replaced the butyl sealant around the periphery of the vent window. I would have expected to see something similar on the rear window.

Interestingly there are also some plastic washers that sit between the lower external aluminium trim and the body. Checking it seems that these are only for 65-77 cars. Anybody with a later car that has removed their rear side window comment on whether they found these plastic washers?

Posted

My SC had plastic washers under the trim piece. Between the trim and the body, with sealing strips between each washer.  
 

Like this: 

—0—0—0— 

But I don’t think I was the first person there, so it may well be non-standard. 

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Northy said:

My SC had plastic washers under the trim piece. Between the trim and the body, with sealing strips between each washer.  
 

Like this: 

—0—0—0— 

But I don’t think I was the first person there, so it may well be non-standard. 

Interesting Lewis - yes, mine looked the same.

But these washers are definitely only listed up to '77. When I bought the car over 20 years ago the aluminium trim at the bottom of the window (not the trim that sits in the rubber seal) was crusty. As I was using Tuthill at the time I asked them to change the trim - one of the very first jobs they did for me. So these washers may originate from that work. 

I'm obviously reluctant to remove the pass side to see if they are also fitted there.

I'll ask on Pelican.

Posted

Trim is held in with self tapping screws.

All G cars including 3.2's have plastic washers under the trim. If they aren't there then either missed at factory (unlikely) or lost during previous work. 

Porsche used a type of glazing putty to seal the glass inside the rubber seal.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Leicestershire said:

Trim is held in with self tapping screws.

All G cars including 3.2's have plastic washers under the trim. If they aren't there then either missed at factory (unlikely) or lost during previous work. 

Porsche used a type of glazing putty to seal the glass inside the rubber seal.

 

@Leicestershire Thanks!

Do you know what material they used on the glass? I'd like to maintain the factory approach.

Posted
1 hour ago, Chris_911 said:

@Leicestershire Thanks!

Do you know what material they used on the glass? I'd like to maintain the factory approach.

Sorry, I don't know what was used back in the factory.

You can buy glazing putty in gun tube and I have often thought about giving it a try but over the years, I have done countless 911 screens and never had anything leak between the glass and the rubber.

I guess the modern alternative would be to run a fine bead of silicone in the bottom of the seal before fitting the glass. Silicone would also be much easier to clean without leaving any marks on the rubber.

Posted
1 hour ago, Leicestershire said:

Sorry, I don't know what was used back in the factory.

You can buy glazing putty in gun tube and I have often thought about giving it a try but over the years, I have done countless 911 screens and never had anything leak between the glass and the rubber.

I guess the modern alternative would be to run a fine bead of silicone in the bottom of the seal before fitting the glass. Silicone would also be much easier to clean without leaving any marks on the rubber.

Thanks.

I think I'm going to run a small bead of butyl rubber around the glass - as with the front 'vent' glass.

Posted

From experience I found refitting easy if reusing old seals , complete pig if using new ones . Used a windscreen firm in the end who I have know for years and used to classic cars  it took 3 of them in the end 2 inside if you can imagine and one outside .. still sitting a bit proud for my liking . May revisit at some point in the future . Good luck .

  • Like 2
Posted

If the seal is  in good condition, then you really won`t need  any paste around the window. The factory did not apply this. 

What found I needed was Length of Parachute cord, tub of Vaseline, plastic trim tools, large rubber mallet and old carpet- to re seat the Aluminium trim into groove. Take a note of how the seal fits against the body flange, on the straight section by the door, If this is not refitted in the correct way, the door will not close properly.

 

                                                                               regards Angus

 

 

 

  • Like 1

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