Bryan M Posted January 28 Posted January 28 Hi, back after a while focusing on the house and other cars. 2025 is the year I'm going to rescue my 911 from my Mum's garage , partly because she is selling her house! It has been MOT'd up until 2020 and then sat since (with the occasional start up) There are a couple of things I would like to get checked prior to getting back on the road and I has some questions It has an intermittent fault which we assumed was the airflow meter - basically the power would die on acceleration, back to idle and in the worse example I drove 1/2mile home is short bursts of power - I have taken the AFM off and got it tested at ATP Drivetrain in Cannock . The track has a small amount of wear at the front which may affect idle but is fine across the rest ie unlikely to cause the fault - they suggest checking the ECU. - Where is the ECU located on the car please so i can get the part number? Or is it easier / possible to get it off the chassis number - Could anything else cause this type of intermittent problem? The second fault is the oil tank is leaking (metal is like lace with resin over the top) - how likely is it I'll just get away with replacing the tank vs all the oil lines (and does anyone have an estimated cost for all the pipes if I need to - i know the tank is about £700) - Given it has been leaking for a few years and there is a small oil stain underneath - how safe am I starting it/running up the road to the garage - there is a little oil on the bottom of the dipstick but that isn't a running level. I was tempted to put in a 1/2 litre and see how it goes? Thoughts welcome
Ian Comerford Posted January 28 Posted January 28 Good to see you are getting it back on the road, these cars need to be driven and really benefit from it. You will get a variety of views on the question of oil tank removal but I’ve never had problems undoing any of the unions on my system or others I have helped with. If you are practical, give it a go. Come back for more advice on how to do it if needed. PS My car is an SC so doesn’t have an ecu but I believe yours should be under the passenger seat (happy to be corrected…..) 1
Chris T Posted January 28 Posted January 28 ECU is indeed under the passenger seat and I'd not worry about driving it a short distance, there is only a small stain underneath and they do contain a LOT of oil! Check simple/cheap stuff first like rotor arm and distributor cap, I doubt it is the ECU but you never know, Beaky (on here) had an ECU for sale a while ago, I'm sure others would lend you one long enough to test it out. Good luck. Chris. 1
Nige Posted January 29 Posted January 29 Could be the ECU, I have a spare Bryan you can borrow for problem solving. Haven't you borrow it before though, it's Bryan from West Hallam way right? Or Mansfield?
Bryan M Posted January 29 Author Posted January 29 Hi Nigel, tis I from West Hallam. Looking at messages it was 6 years (and one pandemic!) since I borrowed your DME relay (is that different to the ECU?) It will be much easier when I get the car up here rather than Worcestershire (not far from Shelsley Walsh) Hopefully local garage can sort the oil tank and get some new tyres as these are about 20years old now
Darkstar32 Posted February 1 Posted February 1 As you know 911 is a dry sump, so you can only get an accurate reading when it's warmed up, i changed my tank recently and it was not to bad on my 86 911, only issue i had to borrow a 36mm spanner to undo the bottom pipe, but after taking the bottom outer panel off access was not to bad.
Strictly Posted February 1 Posted February 1 I'm not sure if you need to know this, but you can fix your tank with araldite if you need to stop a leak Obviously I recommend a new tank. Howeverif you are in a pinch. I have fixed a couple of tank leaks before with araldite. You just need to make sure no oil, degrease, scuff, araldite. It will last until you can fit the new tank. While you have the tank out. Check to see if there is any evidence of flexed/broken metal around where the oil tank bolts to the wing. if so then it id because the support strap which bolts the tank to the rear bumper side bit Is missing from the support strut. This stops the tank from flapping and breaking at this point.
Bryan M Posted February 3 Author Posted February 3 I think it has had something similar to araldite in the past and is leaking around the repair... Just need to get the AFM back from ATP and then can work on getting it running👍
Ian Comerford Posted February 3 Posted February 3 I guess you could also soft solder it as a more permanent repair than Araldite, shouldn’t be too had to do.
Strictly Posted February 5 Posted February 5 On 03/02/2025 at 10:00, Ian Comerford said: I guess you could also soft solder it as a more permanent repair than Araldite, shouldn’t be too had to do. That's a good idea. I might try that day. I have ever araldite a leaking engine case before and it also worked. I have also fitted new oil tanks, if i do anything like the above it's only ever to buy a bit of time
Ian Comerford Posted February 5 Posted February 5 34 minutes ago, Strictly said: That's a good idea. I might try that day. I have ever araldite a leaking engine case before and it also worked. I have also fitted new oil tanks, if i do anything like the above it's only ever to buy a bit of time When I first bought my car in 98 it failed MoT a few months later due to a leaking fuel tank. I didn’t want to tell the long haired bank manager that after spending a few of her £s on a mid life crisis that I needed to spend hundreds more on a new tank. I removed the tank and soft soldered the leaking area which was actually due to rusting internally. The tank lasted another four years before I replaced it
Bryan M Posted February 20 Author Posted February 20 This weekend I'm going to refit the AFM and try and get it to fire up.
Bryan M Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 It lives, VID_20250222_104135476.mp4 Next step MOT and a good service
Bryan M Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Not bad having been stood for 5 years VID_20250222_103748173.mp4
Pablo Posted February 23 Posted February 23 (edited) Well done Bryan, good to get the old girl running again! It may just be the video and quality of listening on my phone, however it sounds like it may be missing in one cylinder? There was a distinct thrum audible? Edited February 23 by Pablo 1
Ian Comerford Posted February 23 Posted February 23 That poor car is in dire need of a good drive……. 1
angusb Posted February 23 Posted February 23 Just a though , but if its been standing since 2020, the petrol will have gone stale.
Bryan M Posted February 23 Author Posted February 23 5 hours ago, Pablo said: Well done Bryan, good to get the old girl running again! It may just be the video and quality of listening on my phone, however it sounds like it may be missing in one cylinder? There was a distinct thrum audible? Yes, we thought that too, hopefully a fresh set of plugs will sort it 1 hour ago, angusb said: Just a though , but if its been standing since 2020, the petrol will have gone stale. It has had a fresh can of premium, which reminds me that the float sticks on the gauge. The tyres worry me more, they are very hard Bridgestone S02s from 2004/5. I think I may try a set of the Michelins 5 hours ago, Ian Comerford said: That poor car is in dire need of a good drive……. You are not wrong, when it's MOTd I can come and say hello 👋
Ian Comerford Posted February 23 Posted February 23 9 minutes ago, Bryan M said: You are not wrong, when it's MOTd I can come and say hello 👋 I think I am free that day 1
Nige Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Watch those tyres, bro inlaw just wrote his Boxster off in what was a low speed spin on hard old tyres.
Bryan M Posted February 24 Author Posted February 24 A new set is on my to do list, what are the recommendations Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2 looked interesting?
Ian Comerford Posted February 24 Posted February 24 I’ve got Exaltos on the rear of mine and they seem good, good grip, wear etc.. I had wanted PS4s to match the front but couldn’t get them in time, I had a puncture and needed to replace them quickly. The Exaltos are N rated so Porsche approved Other opinions are of course available……especially when it comes to tyres
Nige Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Toyo Proxes TR1 here, mainly because of price but they're pretty decent all round and they still do a size that fits 9"
SilverWT Posted February 25 Posted February 25 3 hours ago, Nige said: Toyo Proxes TR1 here, mainly because of price but they're pretty decent all round and they still do a size that fits 9" +1 Work on track OK as well, if you keep the pressure on the high side and the tread is a bit scuffed down. Having said that, the latest version is said to have a stiffer side wall as well as an "improved" tread patern, so may be even better. Mark
Bryan M Posted February 25 Author Posted February 25 22 hours ago, Ian Comerford said: I’ve got Exaltos on the rear of mine and they seem good, good grip, wear etc.. I had wanted PS4s to match the front but couldn’t get them in time, I had a puncture and needed to replace them quickly. The Exaltos are N rated so Porsche approved Other opinions are of course available……especially when it comes to tyres I like Michelin as a rule, how much stock should I put in N0 rated Vs ps4 tyres?
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