Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had hoped to purchase an original flat (non-spoiler) rear engine lid for my 89 Targa but unfortunately said item got damaged in transit and had to be returned.

Wanting to get the car ready for this spring, I am considering ordering the necessary parts new instead.

Would anyone be able to confirm what I have in my basket from Design911 is everything required please?

1 x Rear engine lid. Porsche 911 1974-89 G model cars: Code: 91151201065GRV/1 (Dansk)
1 x Grille for rear spoiler lid. Porsche 911 74-89 Code: 91155941101 (Porsche OEM)
6 x T-Headed screw for rear lid grille (which come with washers and bolts). Porsche 911 1974-89 Code: 91155943300/2 (Porsche OEM)
6 x Rear lid rubber washer spacer. Porsche 911 74-89 Code: 91155943500 (Porsche OEM)
6 x Rear lid washer. Porsche 911 74-89 Code: 113951539 (Porsche OEM)

Also, the car currently has a rear wiper and I will be converting to no rear wiper. Is this straightforward and what has to be done with the existing wiring?

Thanks in advance for any assistance or recommendations - I'm hoping to get everything sorted so the bodyshop will have what they need to do the conversion.

Posted

On my ‘79 SC targa, the motor was easily unbolted and the cables disconnected.  IIRC, the earth wire may have been directly to the earth point behind the fuel filter.  You could just disconnect the spade connectors from the motor, insulate them and ‘tie’ them safely to the engine lid hinge, in case you decide to go back.

Posted

Likewise, disconnected and taped up out of the way

You could save yourself a good few quid by buying the genuine stuff from your OPC 

Posted

Thanks for that useful information chaps.

My local OPC (Bournemouth) proved to be not so good a couple of years back which led me to getting rid of two newer cars. However, I will fire off an e-mail to see if they can organise the equipment and at what price.

Once again, thanks for your help.

Posted

I did this a long time ago. My tips are.

1. Note shims between old lid and hinges

2. When fitting new lid get it right before painting. Use masking tape on top body edge. You will need to shim (m6) between hinge and lid to set the correct height. Open carefully to check gap to top edge. Its easy to lose body paint if you rush this bit allow for paint to be added to new lid.

3. Remove front spoiler chin rubber thing. That is in a porsche TB...or Google to confirm. You only use the rubber chin spoiler with a whale tail. Or it upsets the aerodynamics.

This is my current 911sc which bring a non sport had a factory flat lid...but none the less I fussed to get a nice gap on it.

I actually have a 964 version now but I've not fully fitted it yet.

 

 

1 (3).jpg

1 (4).jpg

1 (5).jpg

2 (2).jpg

Posted

P.s

Im case your wondering why my rear reflector looks a bit weird...it's because I made it so it can light up...=P

Screenshot_20260206_160725_OneDrive.jpg

Posted
16 hours ago, Strictly said:
16 hours ago, Strictly said:

. Remove front spoiler chin rubber thing. That is in a porsche TB...or Google to confirm. You only use the rubber chin spoiler with a whale tail. Or it upsets the aerodynamics.

Although this is the "official" line, in practice it is not true. At least on a moderately lowered car.

A numer of years ago I did back to back runs with and without a rear wing on my SC (documented on a thread on here somewhere). Same route and speed, including motorway, and I could not tell any difference. I have since noted a slight difference at speed in strong cross winds, but nothing alarming.

Having said that, my 3.2 with wing and front spoiler (not standard) is more stable at extreme speed. But it is also lower and more modified.

My conclusion is unless you are going for a land speed record on a windy day you will not have an issue with a front spoiler and no rear wing.

 

Mark

Posted
4 minutes ago, SilverWT said:

Although this is the "official" line, in practice it is not true. At least on a moderately lowered car.

A numer of years ago I did back to back runs with and without a rear wing on my SC (documented on a thread on here somewhere). Same route and speed, including motorway, and I could not tell any difference. I have since noted a slight difference at speed in strong cross winds, but nothing alarming.

Having said that, my 3.2 with wing and front spoiler (not standard) is more stable at extreme speed. But it is also lower and more modified.

My conclusion is unless you are going for a land speed record on a windy day you will not have an issue with a front spoiler and no rear wing.

 

Mark

That's a good point. In that case be aware of it but then experiment with your own car.

I have a similar experience but I can't remember if I had the chin spoiler fitted at the time. I did back to back runs in the same route with whale tail and then with a flat lid.

I found my sc quite skitty at high road speed without the whale tail. So I refitted it and sold the flat lid. The sc was not lowered which might of made a difference and like I said I cannot remember about the chin spoiler...although I did buy the car with flat lid fitted and no chin spoiler fitted and did not particularly notice anything over the first few months...but that was not a back to back test.

On my current sc I do have a chin spoiler and at some point but this will be a while as it's a full resto experiment with it

Posted (edited)

Thanks all, very useful info. 👍

 

Edited by benqv
Posted (edited)

Also worth trial fitting the lid up and everything attached but without the grill installed.  That way if the latch sticks closed you can get your hand it and release things.

Shouldn't be too bad with a factory steel lid, its essential if fitting an aftermarket duck lid though.

Edited by Nige

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...