coxy Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 (edited) For my rebuild due shortly do i need one of these Plus a stand Or will one of these do just as well from machine mart Edited October 7, 2008 by coxy
Nick Moss Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 Do not use a 3 leeged stand, it is guaranteed to topple with a Porsche engine on it! I would only ever use the correct attachment, but they aren't cheap
oliverjamesthomas Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 Here you go!. Ebay is your friend. Buy one of these and a Clark engine stand from Machine Mart like this one. It's the same basic setup as I've got and works a treat. You can move the whole lot around fairly easily and stability isn't an issue. I've had heavier than a Porsche lump on that stand without any problems.
burgundyben Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 (edited) I've been using a cheapo jobbie from here http://www.honest-johns.co.uk/index.php?pr...;image_id=17506 Its been fine, hung the engine on all four legs, then when I got down to nothing but the case I took two legs off so I could lift off one half. Remove flywheel before putting on stand, also would be easier to remove the crossover pipe and intermediate pipe first. I left the HE's on the heads, easier to tackle the rusty seized nuts on the bench. HTH EDIT - I've rebuilt a 4 pot Healey engine, a Landrover 2.5 TD engine, a jag e type engine and a MGB lump on this stand. Edited October 7, 2008 by burgundyben
johndglynn Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 My second 944 Turbo engine is currently sitting on the same stand as Ben, seems to work OK, though I would prefer the U shaped so I could insert a proper drain tray underneath. I don't like those 3 wheelers much
hot66 Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 Mike Bainbridge had a batch of correct engine stand attachments made. Not sure if he has sold them all or not but might be worth giving him a call
grewham Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 I've been using a cheapo jobbie from here [url="http://www.honest-johns.co.uk I have purchased a few bits from this guy and he certainly lives up to his name his ebay feed back is phenominal super fast shipping to.....
burgundyben Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 I have purchased a few bits from this guy and he certainly lives up to his name his ebay feed back is phenominal super fast shipping to..... I use him because his shop is not far away, have bought the stand, a hoist, a chain block, load leveller and all sorts from him over the years, you should see the shop, its the most disorganised shower of stuff you've ever seen!!
johndglynn Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 Mike Bainbridge had a batch of correct engine stand attachments made. Not sure if he has sold them all or not but might be worth giving him a call Good shout mate
coxy Posted November 12, 2008 Author Posted November 12, 2008 Engine is out now, heard a lot about flushing the engine oil out. how do you go about doing this? ie: front oil cooler.
coxy Posted November 12, 2008 Author Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) Seen an discussion on valve seals on pelican, Viton or Teflon? Valve stem seals. What are uk engine builders using, who supply's what? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....ighlight=teflon Edited November 12, 2008 by coxy
johndglynn Posted November 12, 2008 Posted November 12, 2008 I have merged some of your threads into one engine rebuild thread. Don't forget to post details of the rebuild alongside asking the questions - you only get out what you put in. Good luck with the rebuild, looking forward to reading about it.
coxy Posted November 13, 2008 Author Posted November 13, 2008 (edited) I have merged some of your threads into one engine rebuild thread. Don't forget to post details of the rebuild alongside asking the questions - you only get out what you put in. Good luck with the rebuild, looking forward to reading about it. Sorted the engine stand. Made myself a cam holding tool. Worked a treat, saved me $$$$ Thanks, I'm taking plenty of time over the rebuild, only doing the top end (i hope). Learnt loads already. Great site. Edited December 14, 2008 by coxy
coxy Posted November 13, 2008 Author Posted November 13, 2008 (edited) Got the welder out and had a go at the engine tin, should do the job with a bit more fettling. Purchased a spring compressor: Magnet out and yeah NIKASIL Edited December 14, 2008 by coxy
coxy Posted December 2, 2008 Author Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) The leak/oil spatter i had was due to No 6 & No2 cylinder leaking at the head joint on the exhaust side, i suspected broken head studs but after pulling the heads every head stud is fine. Got the engineers blue out last night and this is the result on No 6 cylinder, you can see where it was blowing. 1st. Could this be put right by lapping the heads in or is it a machining job 2nd How could this have happened if all studs where fine and tight 3rd Should i replace all the head studs with 933 studs or can i just replace the bottom Dilaver ones (£££) Still learning this rebuilding lark so be kind Edited December 2, 2008 by coxy
coxy Posted December 2, 2008 Author Posted December 2, 2008 how thick is that feeler guage? That was the thinest one i had 0.04 and it wouldn't find a gap in the head, it slid in that amount because 3.2 heads have a slight drop off/taper.
burgundyben Posted December 2, 2008 Posted December 2, 2008 That was the thinest one i had 0.04 and it wouldn't find a gap in the head, it slid in that amount because 3.2 heads have a slight drop off/taper. 0.04mm? If so that is 2.5 thou. I'd say get some grinding paste and lap the two together with coarse, then fine, then recheck.
topcarrera Posted December 2, 2008 Posted December 2, 2008 0.04mm? If so that is 2.5 thou. I'd say get some grinding paste and lap the two together with coarse, then fine, then recheck. Isn't that more like just over 1.5 thou?
coxy Posted December 2, 2008 Author Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) Isn't that more like just over 1.5 thou? Yep Thats 0.0015748 Inch 2nd & 3rd? Edited December 2, 2008 by coxy
burgundyben Posted December 2, 2008 Posted December 2, 2008 Isn't that more like just over 1.5 thou? Oh, bllx, schoolboy maths error. Anyway, moving swiftly on, that's even better then!
coxy Posted December 14, 2008 Author Posted December 14, 2008 (edited) Update: Checked the cyliderheads with plate glass inside the recess as an indication to the blow by. No 6 and No 2 show wear at the exhaust side ( this explains the leaks i had) Strangely i had no broken studs, anyone experienced this before??? Lapping in the heads, A small amount of lapping in sorted the heads out, did all six so made myself a little jig to give even pressure to each head. Everything checked out to well within spec thankfully. Tackled the exhaust studs this weekend, not to bad had to drill out three of them, purchased a couple of cobalt drill bits (good shout Ben) Luckily all head studs came out pretty easily Next stage is a trip to the machine shop to sort out the valve guids all packed up and ready to go. Need to make the list for all the parts now..... Edited December 15, 2008 by coxy
MaxDiesel Posted December 14, 2008 Posted December 14, 2008 Nice work The "little" jig for lapping the head/cylinders looks great. Did it take much heat to get the head studs to free off ? - will be tackling mine later this week...
coxy Posted December 14, 2008 Author Posted December 14, 2008 Nice work The "little" jig for lapping the head/cylinders looks great. Did it take much heat to get the head studs to free off ? - will be tackling mine later this week... Came out easier than i anticipated, keep the heat and tension on until they start to break free. The exhaust studs where the hardest ones, may yet have to helicoil a couple.
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