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Tripe's 3.6 Transplant SC


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ACE, up here being stuck in traffic means being held up in a queue of traffic behind a tractor. Point taken though, not sure if Martin (MRG3.6) had the cooler uprated on his SC when his conversion was done all those years ago.

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Jev, I have a new RMS to fit, any one got the special tool for pushing it in?

 

No mate - I used the old seal flipped over(flat face to flat face) to tap the new seal in, went in nice and square and I went a tiny bit further in than the one I took out so the sealing lip was on a clean unexposed part of the crank and not a gammy bit that had been "outside" all its life.

 

From what I read add a bit of oil to the inner lip(the bit that touches the crank) but keep the outside of the seal and the case recess dry.

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We have the late type SC cooler, i.e not a trombone.

Is that the brass pipe one Tripey?

I read somewhere that type is better than the non-fan assisted 3.2 radiator as it's less dependant on air flow

Anyone had any experience?

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Is that the brass pipe one Tripey?

I read somewhere that type is better than the non-fan assisted 3.2 radiator as it's less dependant on air flow

Anyone had any experience?

 

That is certainly contrary to my understanding.

 

I have said this before, but you are well light on cooling even with a 3.2 radiator style cooler as you are ditching the engine cooler. Thank god for the UK weather.

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That is certainly contrary to my understanding.

 

I have said this before, but you are well light on cooling even with a 3.2 radiator style cooler as you are ditching the engine cooler. Thank god for the UK weather.

Check out p.61 of Bruce Anderson's 911 Perf Handbook

Paraphrasing a little he says 'For US driving purposes the brass cooler was probably the best cooler...

The radiator type cooler that replaced it was very dependant on air flow and really didnt work well on US cars with our slow speed limits'

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ACE, up here being stuck in traffic means being held up in a queue of traffic behind a tractor. Point taken though, not sure if Martin (MRG3.6) had the cooler uprated on his SC when his conversion was done all those years ago.

Hi Tripe,

 

Yup ACE is correct I installed a B&B cooler 'all those years ago' - nice bit of kit, beautifully made and has done everything from a 'very hot' drive to the (first) Malaysian Grand Prix, the Le Mans 'traffic jam' thing and 'off the clock' trying to keep up with Matteo on the way to the Ring.

 

You should have saved yourself all this trouble and bought mine mate :rolleyes:

 

Martin

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Tripe give James Lister motorsport in West Brom a call they are main dealers for Setrab and have been cheapest by far for all the bits ive needed for my car www.lister.co.uk

........and don't forget those 'widemouth' oil fittings from Elephant Racing: http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhandling/...thoilcooler.htm

 

Martin

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How much?

If you mean the B&B oil cooler then I reckon that with the fan kit they must be running at over a $1000, however if you mean the trusty old 3.6SC then you'll need to wait until the spring as my 72t is presently at Bob Watsons having the 'strange' high throttle effect MFI set-up returned to a more conventional 'compressed' 2.7RS 'twin plug' spec in the vague hope that I can actually drive the beast at less than 70mph.

 

Martin

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Hmmm $1000 for the oil cooler, that's got to be worth more than the old SC now we're being credit crunched eh Martin? ;)

 

My ducks were nicely aligned today. Mrs T was away for the harvest festival, so whilst the cat's away..... I hooked up the jet washer to the hot tap on the bath.

 

steamcleanoiltank001Medium.jpg

 

I'd been up to the local farm suppliers first thing, they had tractor cleaner on special offer, £13 for 5 gallons of the stuff. So that was connected up to the jet washer as well to give the gearbox a good blasting.

 

steamcleanoiltank002Medium.jpg

 

Half an hour later and she's nice and tidy. We've tried the POR Marine Clean on jobs like this before, but the tractor nectar is a fifth of the price and just as good so I reckon that's the way forward for me.

 

steamcleanoiltank004Medium-1.jpg

 

It's one of the tightest 915 boxes I've ever driven (rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago) so this time around I'm going to limit the work to new mounts, notching the case to accommodate the flywheel sensor, replacing the shaft seals and refilling her with Swepco. If it turns out that the 3.6 power is a bit too much for it then I'll look out for a late 3.2 Carrera box with the external oil cooler and have it rebuilt/strengthened to suit.

 

Whilst the gearbox was getting a good steaming the flywheel was in the oven at gas mark 8 (not quite sure that Mrs T would approve of this carry-on either, hehe). It's a Patrick Motorsports flywheel, specially made for a 3.6 conversion with the cut outs around the circumference for the speed sensor. Thanks to a tip off from Jev I picked this new one up on eBay UK for about half the price of one landed from the States. The pilot bearing was bought new from Porsche, the workshop manual recommends using a press to push it in to the flywheel. Not got one of those, but we do have a freezer. So last night the little pilot bearing bedded down amongst the golly gosh rogan josh for chilly night's rest.

 

steamcleanoiltank005Medium.jpg

 

After an hour in the oven the flywheel had expanded nicely and the frosty bearing plopped in without any fuss.

 

steamcleanoiltank006Medium.jpg

 

After that the engine compartment got the obligatory clean up.

 

steamcleanoiltank007Medium.jpg

 

Then I dropped the oil system to make it easier to clean it all up and get a spanner on the oil line nuts. The tank is in great shape and will get a lick of the POR paint.

 

steamcleanoiltank009Medium.jpg

 

The only downside to the day was finding that some wise guy had at some stage wrapped the elbow on the oil lines in foam rubber to prevent chafing against the chassis. Result: permanent damp mud trap. Consequently the bottom of the kidney has rusted through and the bottom of the rear wing dogleg has blistered under the sill cover. One more little winter job to sort.

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I am loving the domestic pics mate. Shame about the kidney.

 

That is good value TFR - I pay £29 for 25K of the non caustic stuff. If that is caustic just watch it on the ally parts - lots of clean water to rinse it all away.

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Check out p.61 of Bruce Anderson's 911 Perf Handbook

Paraphrasing a little he says 'For US driving purposes the brass cooler was probably the best cooler...

The radiator type cooler that replaced it was very dependant on air flow and really didnt work well on US cars with our slow speed limits'

 

I think BA is in a minority if he is rating the brass cooler over the rad style cooler.

 

From his quote, I think you might still conclude that a radiator with a fan is probably the best cooler. Rad style coolers is certainly the direction Porsche went in cooling progressively bigger and more powerful engines and on the 3.6s they took it a step further with a bigger cooler and much more carefully managed airflow through the cooler. The brass pipe and trombone coolers don't benefit so much from increased airflow whereas the 3.2 coolers do - that I agree with. Ditching the fog lights, a bigger notch in the bumper, sealing the underside to force air through the cooler are all useful improvements with a rad cooler but less so with the others.

 

RB

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The turbo has a standard 3.2 rad fitted with a new foam seal. It runs with a fan, lower temp sensor and air scoop (replacement for the o/s quarter bumper rubber) + fog light delete and it's fine. Even in traffic queues it never gets above half way, and in normal driving never above the first mark.

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