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MaxDiesel

Time for a top end rebuild ?

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Top job, watching your thread with interest, keep it comming with photos. :signs118:

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Top job :ani_clapping: Jealous of that garage :(

and me , I can only scuttle sideways down one side of the car in my garage .. :signs118:

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Thanks for the comments on the garage - building it was the last big project that I got carried away with - took ~3years in the end !

 

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Got my engine up on the stand this morning using the new adapter - all went smoothly, fortunately the high lift jack could get the engine at the right height just to slip through the yoke of the stand.

 

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Engine turns over on the stand nicely - it was a hell of a lot easier undoing the H/E nuts like this compared to the whole weekend I spent lying on my back under the car last time....

 

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Also cleaned up my inlet manifolds this week, had them steam cleaned and then through the hot wash at work - finally gave them a light bead blast - came up a treat. Not sure what to do with them next - leave as is, laquer or powder coat - recommendations welcome.

 

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Fun finished for today as I've got to start my Xmas shopping this afternoon.. :o will start stripping the rockers down in the morning - good news so far is there's no broken head studs :)

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First top end removed this evening, no signs of leakage past the heads:

 

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Its amazing how many bits there are from just one side (fortunately I've got a good supply of Chinese take away tubs :blush:):

 

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Took a 3ft breaker bar to crack the head nuts off, studs all seem in surprisingly good condition - fingers crossed they come out the block ok

 

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Lovely mate. People always underestimate how much hard work it is to keep stopping to take pics - well done for that ;)

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Lovely mate. People always underestimate how much hard work it is to keep stopping to take pics - well done for that ;)

 

+1 :signs118: - Impressively clinical looking garage :bowdown: Hope all goes to plan ............

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Finished stripping the top end tonight, all head studs intact, no signs of blowing past the cylinders:

 

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Lots of bits to clean and measure - going to keep me busy over Xmas !

 

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Will measure the bores properly at work later this week - all look surprising good with decent cross-hatch all over and no scores - even on No. 3 which had >30% leakage... looks like the rings are well worn though.

 

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Fingers crossed the bores measure up OK then I'll be giving them a light hone and re-using. Need to decide whether to split the cases next - tempted to as I've come this far.....

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Finished stripping the top end tonight, all head studs intact, no signs of blowing past the cylinders:

Fingers crossed the bores measure up OK then I'll be giving them a light hone and re-using. Need to decide whether to split the cases next - tempted to as I've come this far.....

 

 

Good work, im still jealous of your garage. :signs118:

 

What do your rings look like?

How many miles have they done? (oh just checked 147k0

Are they in spec?

 

Im debating if i should change mine, at 67k they measure in spec at 0.5 (piston cap installed in cylinder) if i remember correctly, but i`ve heard to many stories of new Gotz??? rings being further out of spec than the existing ones.

 

Droped my heads of today at the machine shop, 300 notes to replace all guides and lapp/cut the valve seats. How does that sound on price. Anyone?

 

Have you had any prices on powder coating yet?

Edited by coxy

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Good work, im still jealous of your garage. :signs118:

 

What do your rings look like?

How many miles have they done?

Are they in spec?

 

Im debating if i should change mine, they measure in spec at 0.5 if i remember correctly, but i`ve heard to many stories of new Gotz??? rings being further out of spec than the existing ones.

 

Droped my heads of today at the machine shop, 300 notes to replace all guides and lapp/cut the valve seats. How does that sound on price. Anyone?

 

Have you had any prices on powder coating yet?

 

Not measured my rings yet - will let you know what I find later this week. Engine had done 143K miles, the last 90k having been done by the previous very careful owner over 14 years. Goetze rings have a pretty good reputation as far as I know.

 

Found this link for machine shop prices whilst going through some old threads:

 

Replace valve guides 8.50

Recut valve seats 5.00

Beadblast and reface valves 3.00

Reface heads 12.00 each

 

Not got a price for my powder coating yet - got to weld up the rusty rear tinware first.....

 

Dropped off all my external brackets, hose clips, screws, nuts, fan housing clamp etc etc (15 bags in all !) at the local platers for stripping and Zinc Passivate plating - agreed £100 for the lot after some haggling.

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Replace valve guides 8.50

Recut valve seats 5.00

Beadblast and reface valves 3.00

Reface heads 12.00 each

 

 

That sounds cheap,

 

Work on engine stopped for me now as i`m of to Egypt in six hours, :ani_clapping:

 

keep up the good work.

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Got everything back from the platers yesterday - really pleased with the results, most bits have come up like new:

 

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Plating was £60 for the whole lot in the end - not bad considering how much there was.

 

Also measured the pistons now - good news is they're all in spec on diameter and ring grooves. Measuring the bores on Monday - fingers crossed they're all ok too.

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Just spent a very frustrating hour and a half removing a single exhaust stud :banghead:

 

Started off by breaking my stud extractor, then tried welding a nut on but ended up shearing the stud...

 

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Then welded another nut on and applied more heat to the head:

 

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Sheared the stud again ! Welded another nut on... runnning out of stud to weld to:

 

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Third time lucky - reckon it was the fact the stud had been cherry red from welding that finally made it break loose.

 

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Eleven more to go...... :( - I'd love to hear from anyone who's found a better way of getting these out !

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Eleven more to go...... :( - I'd love to hear from anyone who's found a better way of getting these out !

 

I cut them off with a grinder at about 3mm long, filed the end flat, centre punched the end, drilled and helicoiled, stronger and easier to remove in the future.

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Bit of an photo update before the festivities:

 

Gave my heavily coked pistons given the Nitromors treatment

 

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Cleaned up well

 

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Measured the bores and good news is they're all well within spec. - not bad for 140k miles. Gave them a light hone today - all ready for a new set of rings

 

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Worked out why I had >30% leakage on cylinder 4 when I had a closer look at the top ring - bit thin on one side :o Looks like the heavy carbon build up behind the rings had stopped them working properly.

 

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Ring gap >4mm versus 0.8mm max spec !

 

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So definitely a new set of rings required.

 

Hoping to make some progress on the heads over Xmas break and get the studs out the crankcase - got a higher temp gas torch on the way to help things along.

 

Merry Christmas !

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Love the piston ring detail, typical wear with the pistons lying down. Not thought of Nitromors to get rid of coke before. Great work mate!

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Made it down to the garage this afternoon for the first time since Xmas - progress slow but steady due to sore head :whistling:

 

Got the first head stud out - definitely need more heat, hopefully new propane torch kit should arrive tomorrow ready for the remainder

 

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Used a Snap-On chuck stud holder that I borrowed from a friend at work - gripped the stud well:

 

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Also had a go at one of the valve guides, tapped a thread and then pushed out ok:

 

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Eleven more to go...

 

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Not much progress last couple of days as have had been down with "man flu". New gas torch arrived today though so I had to pop down the garage and try it out (wife won't accept the "I'm not well" excuse for anything else now....).

 

So the new torch worked well - five studs removed in the time it took me to get the first one out.

 

Couple of mins of heat for each one and they wind out no problem:

 

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Its one of these: Gas Torch

 

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Its cheap and cheerful but does the trick. I considered getting a MAPP torch kit but though that may be a bit OTT on the aluminium casings. Also already had a large propane bottle for running my space heater.

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Used a Snap-On chuck stud holder that I borrowed from a friend at work - gripped the stud well:

 

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Great photos mate, especially the one of the ring in the cylinder!

 

I struggled with a stud exterctor on the lower studs and had to weld a nut on one to remove it.

 

Happy new year.

 

Regards,

 

Mark

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First proper session down the garage since Xmas this afternoon. Had my 9 year old apprentice helping today so progress was much quicker than usual !

 

All remaining head studs removed, couple of them still proved quite stubborn - took heat and a 3ft breaker bar ! My apprentice managed the last four almost on his own !

 

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Done :rolleyes:

 

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Then set to on crankcase, having decided after 145k miles it would be wise to check out the bottom end as well:

 

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Didn't take long to have it split

 

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Everything seems OK inside, crank journals all look pretty good so hopefully just a polish and set of shells. Will measure it properly next week

 

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Case halves all ready for to go for a good clean:

 

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OK so I've finished stripping my 3.2 engine now and I'm putting togther my shopping list. So far I've listed all the usuals: gaskets, piston rings, guides, chains, ramps, main bearings, B/E bearings, head studs, rod bolts etc. etc.

 

There's a couple of items I'm debating whether to replace: valve springs and exhaust valves - in both cases the parts appear serviceable and I'd only be doing it for peace of mind. My engine's done 143k miles - mostly by the previous careful owner who had it regularly serviced. I'm planning some mild tuning: big bore throttle body, inlet manifold flowing, Hot Wire MAF and ECU remap but no change in cams. My goal is to have a good solid 250hp engine without losing any low down torque over stock. I'm hoping to do the occaisional track day.

 

Are valve spring or exhaust valve failures common on high mileage 3.2 engines ? What's usual practice by the well known build shops - always fit new valves and springs or just reuse ?

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Aux shaft bearings and oil return tubes.

 

Small ends? I've done mine, pressed the old ones out, pressed new ones in, drilled oil holes, took them in for reaming.

 

As well as selants you'll need some assembly lube, I have Graphogen.

 

When you have pressed in your guides you might find the valves a little tight in the guides, Mike Bainbridge has written some stuff on that 'other' Porsche forum, he says if you warm the head and chill the valve and go easy in the press they should not need reaming. I'm not so sure, on such a small part the heat transfer is very fast so I just did the job at ambient and bought a small adjustable reamer. I found increasing the reamer size in 1/4 turns of the nuts and running it all the way through and back gave a good result. Reamer is available on ebay, used my model builders, about a fiver.

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