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Lesworth

Targa window rattles fixed

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I've been fiddling with my drivers door of late to get a better fit in terms of gaps and flushness. This improved the 'shutting' massively but I still had a bit of a rattle when shutting. Also when driving, with the window up, all was well, however, with the window more than a quarter of the way down, there was an annoying rattle. I also needed to change the outer window scraper seal as I seem to have the Coupe versions fitted to both sides leaving them half an inch short (obviously for the coupe's door frame).

Outersealgap.jpg

 

Time to remove all the door trim, peel back the membrane and take a look. It didnt take long to realise that the cause of the rattle was the window glass coming onto contact with the top of the outside of the window channel that runs up the rear of the door. There should be a brush / seal across the top of the gap that the windoe rises through (part number 911 531 295 40 for a Targa). Because there is no felt runner in this rear guide like there is in the front window frame, the brush seal is all that keeps the glass from coming into contact with the top of the window channel. Needless to say, over the last 20 years this seal has rotted away (most of it was in bits at the bottom of the door):

Outerbrushseal1.jpg

Outerbrushseal2.jpg

 

Here is the new part against the old:

Newvsold.jpg

Newvsold2.jpg

 

Even with the window all the way down, there is not enough access to get the old part out and the new part in (its fixed with metal clips that push through holes in the door skin. The rear window channel is easily removed by undoing the three hex nuts at the end of the door and simply pulling it up out of the top of the door. This allows you to pull the window glass out of the front window frame. This gives you just enough clearance between the glass and the outer edge of the window slot so you can clip in the new brush seal.

Newbrush.jpg

 

Fitted the new longer outer scraper seal and weatherstrip, put back membrane and door trim. Nice thunk as I shut the door and no more rattle. Outer scrper seal was £5 each side and the brush seal was £12 each side. Nice. :cool:

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Well post Les - another " to do " on the never ending list :D

Have'nt driven mine in months , so first thing is to check when I do get motoring again

Kieran

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Even with the window all the way down, there is not enough access to get the old part out and the new part in (its fixed with metal clips that push through holes in the door skin.

Need to do this job on my SC coupe (my scraper looks like Les' old one). Have read Les' and Northy's posts about how hard it is to replace the felt scraper but my window went down far enough to allow me to simply prise out out the crumbling old one ? As such I'm anticipating fitting of the replacement one (£22 + VAT :rolleyes:) to be relatively simple. Am I missing something here ?

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Need to do this job on my SC coupe (my scraper looks like Les' old one). Have read Les' and Northy's posts about how hard it is to replace the felt scraper but my window went down far enough to allow me to simply prise out out the crumbling old one ? As such I'm anticipating fitting of the replacement one (£22 + VAT :rolleyes:) to be relatively simple. Am I missing something here ?

Its more fiddly than impossible. Pressing the studs in is hard because tere is little clearance to squeeze your fingers in with enough leverage to push the stud home. Small girls hands (like mine) are a definite advantage here :blush:

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I did my drivers door yesterday Gary. Putting the scraper back in is a bit of a sod. I found that the following method worked quite well. Get a flat wide wooden spatula to lever against the glass and apply pressure against the felt strip. I found that using a flat screwdriver to gentle lift up the scraper up from the bottom help to keep the pressure in the right places. A word of caution, I punched myself in the mouth when the spatula snapped.

 

I did all of the seals around the frame too. You have to take the frame out of the door to do this, which is actually not that hard. Two bolts at the front of the door, three in the back of the door and one on the inside.

 

Haven't had a chance to test it yet, but hopefully that's the end of the anonying rattles.

Edited by Northy

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Its more fiddly than impossible. Pressing the studs in is hard because tere is little clearance to squeeze your fingers in with enough leverage to push the stud home. Small girls hands (like mine) are a definite advantage here :blush:

Ah, like you I should be ok then Les :)

 

I did my drivers door yesterday Gary. Putting the scraper back in is a bit of a sod. I found that the following method worked quite well. Get a flat wide wooden spatula to lever against the glass and apply pressure against the felt strip. I found that using a flat screwdriver to gentle lift up the scraper up from the bottom help to keep the pressure in the right places. A word of caution, I punched myself in the mouth when the spatula snapped.

Cheers Lewis. Where did you get your scraper seal from ?

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Ah, like you I should be ok then Les :)

 

 

Cheers Lewis. Where did you get your scraper seal from ?

 

Sir Tripe-a-lot. I bought the whole lot from him.

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Sir Tripe-a-lot. I bought the whole lot from him.

Cool - given him a pm but think he's away atm.

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Sorry to reopen this thread but I am struggling to get the studs fitted....If I remove the rear guide, what do I need. To do with the glass to help me to get at pushing the studs in ?

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As you have found they are quite a tight fit.  I used a piece of sheet metal (only about 5-6 inches square) up against the windows glass to spread the load and then used a big flat screwdriver in a kind of twisting motion against the sheet metal on one side and the stud on the other if this makes sense.  It worked really well and caused no damage.

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2 hours ago, Lesworth said:

Wow, how was this 11 years ago 😲

 

Back when you were young, eh Les?:P

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To bring this thread up once again,
I'm changing the window scrapers on my Targa,

but does anybody have a clear picture of how they
should be mounted?

How far do they go in the corners where the trim meets
the window guide rail?

Thanks in advance!

Kind Regards,
Johan

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