johntom

Hi They are brand new and boxed, price is £28.49 + p&p. This is for all 7 leads, they fit very well and the car runs well, perhaps not magnecor quality but a sixth of the price, definitely a bargain ! I don't have the eBay item number to hand, but a search will find them. If anyone can't find them I will find the info and post it.

Hi my 1980 Sc sends heat to the footwells all he time. The heater flaps under the car look quite new, they move freely and open/close with the lever between the seats. The heat is still there with the lever down/flaps open, is this normal ? Also I have just removed the heater control unit from beneath the seats because the rotory dial spins freely with no effect on the heating. When I removed the cover I could see the plastic tag has broken off the spindle that fits inside the rotory dial. However when I turn the spindle (that fits inside the rotory dial) it turns with some resistance, however when I turn it back the other way is feels very loose for about 270 degrees before having resistance and feeling like its turning something again, is this right ?? many thanks

Hi yesterday I fitted a set of new plug leads and it has completely transformed the car ! I can't believe after 12 months of poor performance the car now goes, feels and sounds like it should, all thanks to a new set of plug leads from ebay at £34.95 ! The car went for it's MOT retest today, the hydocarbons have reduced from 3500ppm to 99ppm, (due to it running on all 6 cylinders) hence it passed !!! Now on with the small jobs !

Hi The sparks look light blue, hard to be 100% as they are very fine, is this normal ? Since buying the car I have always felt it was underpowered, hence the new plugs, dist cap and rotor when I bought it. I tried (with insulated pliers) pulling the leads whilst the car was running, #4 did make a difference when pulled (1 of the 'as new' plugs), #5 didn't make a difference (the other 'as new' plug), I then swapped both leads at the dist and the plug ends and both make a difference when pulled? However #3 (with light brown plug) didn't make a difference when pulled, so that's not working now? Suspect leads are high on the list but what about the weak looking spark ? Also how do I know if there's fuel in the clean oil ?

Hi Following on from my thread 'Mot failure - hydrocarbons' Yesterday I removed the plugs which I fitted 500 miles ago when I bought the car last June (changed the plugs to try and improve the poor performance but it didn't make a difference). Cylinders 1,2,3 & 6 are a nice light brown - 4 & 5 look brand new, totally unmarked ! So either 2 duff plugs, 2 duff leads or no fuel to 2 cylinders, but with high hydrocarbons, hopefully there will be fuel? Today I have tried a plug from number 5 in it's Ht lead against the chassis and it does seem to have a spark, but the spark somehow looks weak, but so does number 6 which is working? The dist cap and rotor were also new 500 miles ago ? Surely it can't have run 500 miles on 4 cylinders but the plugs are totally as new? Any help most welcome !

Hi i have just done the pressure tests with the following results : system pressure 4.7 bar, 68 psi cold control pressure 2.2 bar, 32 psi warm pressure 3.2 bar, 46 psi are these results to spec for a 1980 SC ?

Hi thanks for that, I also found this site which has some good 911 info jimsbasementworkshop (csprimer section inparticular) well worth a read if you haven't already seen it.

Hi i have just bought a CIS test kit, can anyone recommend an idiots guide to using it (connection diagram and test procedures etc) ? many thanks

Hi the car starts first time and keeps running, although the first few seconds aren't perfectly smooth. I had read that the initial cold start should be at a higher rpm hence decided to investigate. I have always thought the overall power was down and that the car didn't really perform so I am awaiting delivery of a CIS pressure test kit, i'm sure i will be asking for help when it arrives !

Hi The flap does move fully open under spring tension, when prompted with a small screwdriver. The crescent shaped opening when cold is around 1/4 of the potential opening, is that right for this time of year? If so what else would cause no increase in warm idle?

Hi my 1980 Sc has never really had a 'warm idle'. When started from cold the tickover starts at around 900-1000 rpm before dropping to 850 ish pretty much straight away. This afternoon I removed the Auxiliary Air Regulator and joined the in/out pipe, then started the car, the tickover went straight to 1100rpm then climbed smoothly upto 1800 rpm? The AAR has 33.3 ohms across it's terminals, the plug it's 13v across the terminals ? Whilst the AAR in/out were joined together, I left the AAR plug in, the hole was still in the closed state (closed with a small crescent opening), is this correct or should the valve be open during cold start then slowly close to bring the tick over down ?? When the AAR was reconnected and the car started (tickover back to 850 ish) I removed the Warm Up Regulator plug to test the for voltage (got 12v) but no change to the engine/tickover should it have altered without the plug connected ? sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand and sort the car many thanks

Hi Many thanks for your reply So what determines what I should set the Co at? When I bought the car last year it seemed to bog down and struggle to rev when started from cold, it also had a tendency to backfire. I had a 'specialist?' look at the car who said I was running rich (Co was 6%), he adjusted it to I think 3% which improved both symptoms. I've always felt the car lacked performance so rechecking the Co and tickover (having bought a tacho and gas tester) are on my to do list. I have just about mastered setting the timing with help from the forum, so hopefully if the timing, Co and tickover are good I can rule them out. When setting the timing, the tickover was around 800 rpm on the cars tacho. After adjusting it closer to 950rpm I found it seemed to settle back at 800 ish again, is that influenced by the Co ?

Hi I have recently acquired a Co meter and want to check my settings. When setting the Co on a 1980 SC, should it be 1.5 - 2.5% and is it set at warm idle?

Hi my pulley mark is definitely just '5' and as you say, it's about 5mm from the Z1. With your car being a 204bhp I think your setting is 25 deg at 4000 rpm, where as mine is just 5 deg at tdc. I am awaiting delivery of a multimeter with tacho facility and a gas analyser so I can check the CO and tickover.

Hi what figures would i hope to see when compression testing a 3.0SC engine and what is the tolerance between cylinders ie 10% ?