neil76

Wasn't sure where to post this but thought the advice might help others. Looked at a car today, the sunroof starts to move but won't fully drop and therefore not open . It then needs some 'help' to go back up. The motor hasn't got any of the padding/covers there that it should so I guess it has been 'messed with' before. Is it a case of replacing the seals/greasing the guides etc... and/or possibly the motor? (I have seen the guide on pelican, any thoughts on approx cost of this?) Is there anything else I should be looking at? It's a '79 SC coupe if that makes any difference

He just felt it made it more 'interesting' than a run of the mill sc. Reality is it seems like an M code (M42?) that could be specified to any new car and consisted of the stripes and steering wheel. Not sure if it also extended to the turbo spoiler (or if this is a later edition) and whether the wider fuchs 7's and 8's were later edition etc.. It's still a chromed sc in white born in the same year as myself (1979) so I am interested

Thanks. Is this the same as the motorshow 930 kit then? Guess it makes it moderatly more interesting than a 'normal' car if it is showing as an M code - any idea what to look out for?

Seen an SC -not on the market. It is white, has a martini steering wheel but no body stripes. The wheels are black centred (but are turbo's so I guess swapped out for the white centred ones) Was there a non-turbo martini edition on the 'normal' SC? Not really bothered either way - just the guy selling is trying to make a big deal out of it and all I can see is a steering wheel and stripes that could be applied to any GP white car. Other than that it is a non-foglamp, chrome trimmed '79 RHD with 100k on the clock and nice black interior and turbo fuchs's so apart from the turbo lid (needs a flat or duck) it is a very nice prospect.

Nothing major but there are still items on that list that IMHO would cause the car to fail an MOT (lighting being the main one) but I would also be concerned about: "front and rear brake hydraulic hose ends corroded. front outer anti-roll bar bushes worn - a job for superPro ! - easy? rear anti roll bar drop links in poor condition"

My only other thoughts on this are that the poster has respectfully IMHO not directly named the dealer -OK we all know who it is but there is no direct use of the name in the posts therefore not trying to slander the business - this is an important point for the poster and the forum (similar issues have turned nasty on other forums I frequent). You need to quickly engage in a dialogue with the dealer, scrub up on the sale of goods act and also get the car inspected independantly (at your cost unfortunately) and the VOSA regulations. I think unless the dealer goes down the 'reasonable' mark you have to get tough. But you need to give him the opportunity to respond, the 3.2 article in this months Porsche and 911 world has three of his cars in there - but if you read the detail there are'fault's and problems that the mag feels reasonable for the priced the cars are offered for - and they aren't cheap, so this could be his come back. If he sticks with buyer beware I would imagine the VOSA route is your only option. If it is noted to not be motable then you could reject the car under the sale of goods act as 'not fit for the purpose intended' i.e. a road legal vehicle. Forum's do have power though 911Virgin replaced a 996 engine even though technically outside the warranty due to a thread on pistoneads which did the business no end of good. Good luck

Oh dear from the pictures it doesn't look good at all - but then that's not the full story, you'd have to see the car. If it was me before you go any further i'd be getting a detailed inspection done by a respected Porsche specialist whom you trust (think someone off here) to the extent of the corrosion and/or the other way of doing it is to get an MOT check on it from a VOSA inspector. 'IF' the extent of the corrosion near the seat belt, seat mountings and suspension mountings is as bad as it looks then you will have a far stronger case and whomever MOT'd the car will not be coming out of this well. Real shame for you on what is a very nice looking car. My route in from now would be to just think that if you can come out the other side under £15k for a sorted car with all the work done properly then you have got a good deal out of it.

Out of interest - how difficult are these to replace? Is it is a case of simple as long as you can get the old nuts/clamps off without too much bother?

yes - sadly there is no way of making th ephone operational - must have been a proper 80's yuppy mobile for the first owner!

Sticking on forum topic the rear antiroll bar mounts are a little crusty but I am not concerned around this. The skills and kidneys appear solid but again there has been welding to the front antiroll bar mounts. Slightly off topic there is some weaping around the base of the block - but it had a clutch and associated seals some 18 months ago so I am working on something 'higher up' and the aforementioned oil pipes in the arch.

Great thanks all Aldo - I think I have most bases covered, the seller thought I was mad lying on the ground under his 'immacualte' car (which I found it was even underneath).

Another newbee question. A car I am looking at has a load of black 'gunk' around the front strut area under the bonnet, that is solid but also has some cracks/gaps in it. I have seen this on other cars but it is solid. I am presuming this isn't structural and therefore only serves to stop dust/dirt going down to the strut or up to the bonnet area. or should I be concerned? It's an 87 3.2 coupe if that helps.

Thanks - still negotiating on the car!

Sounds like you got a good result - but like others have cautioned I would check what work is carried out with phtotos (will pay dividends when you come to sell). I guess I might have asked the right questions but I was advised that there was corrosion under the paint on both B posts and around the bottom of the screen and that whilst the motor and box were replaced in 2005 there is no history to confirm that they were rebuilt or reconditioned although it did drive well and the normal servicing had been carried out on the dot since.

Don't know what deal you did on the car but remember it was up for £11995. I had a very detailed and helpful response from XXXX on the car when I was interested and also a phone conversation with XXXXXX. (I have posted some comments to support this on this forum) In my (unprofessional) opinion there was enough 'about' the car given the information I gleaned to make me suspicious that it would need some interior work, potential B's/kidney's and a top end rebuild (and poss gearbox) if not immediately but in the near future. However, whilst i ruled it out it is from my opinion not disimilar to 4 other cars I have viewed in terms of condition, work needed and price. I would have expected it to be £8-10k from a private seller depending on how motivated they have been and so an opening bid of £12k from XXXX seemed OK. I would have been aiming for £11k as an outright purchase but i'd have got XXXXX to service it in this, the mechanical warranty would have been a nice touch on top if anything major went bang. Remember it is not a £15-18k car - they are out there at dealers and IMHO (although I don't have the money) worth the extra in terms of the difference in provenance and remedial work either already undertaken or not being needed. 911Virgin have just turned over 2 expensive IB's and RPM in Bucks sold a very nice Granite Green 3.2 G50 For £12.5k but noting that it would require (as all 100k+ milers seem to eventually) a top end at £3k+