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Ivelosttheplot

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Everything posted by Ivelosttheplot

  1. When hot it’s just above the halfway on the dipstick
  2. Thanks for your comments the engine builder came and set the timing and checked the CO my initial setting of the timing was pretty accurate and just a tweaking needed we actually put 13.5 ltrs oil in to get the correct levels as he said a newly built engine would use more initially thanks again keith
  3. My engine is fresh built and this will be its first good run i would have the engine builder there but he’s turned out to be an awkward guy , long story ! i have put in 8 ltrs and previously with fuel and ignition off cranked the engine over and around 20-40 psi so good oil supply and the oil warning light goes out on start up when I ran the car for a very short while there was nothing on the dipstick , although if the thermostat is not open as engine was barely warm then am I correct in saying there will be no circulation to the tank so nothing on the dipstick ? Yet my original service book says oil change 10 ltrs but I don’t want to overfill or underfill of course and generally people say 8 ltrs and top up accordingly once hot the engine guy is coming soon so I’ll wait for him but thought I’d ask this question replies appreciated Keith
  4. Thanks mate i have about 8 now once the timing has been set up correctly I will run until warmed up then check and top up if required do you know the BTDC timing settings for a 1976 2.7s my book doesn’t say Regards keith
  5. I’m having difficulties working out oil quantity for my 76 2.7s did they have front oil coolers as well as just engine oil coolers ? my original service manual says oil change add 10 ltrs is this high for an engine oil cooler Regards Keith
  6. Oil quantity I have just looked through my original service book and it says changing engine oil 911s add 10 ltrs and add more if necessary It does not state if this has a front or just engine oil cooler im assiming just engine cooler but the quantities seem high, mine just has engine oil cooler any assistance appreciated Keith
  7. Hi all Can anyone confirm oil quantity for 2.7s with engine oil cooler not external cooler believe 8 ltrs ? and oil pressures at 1000 rpm idle is 20 psi correct ? newly rebuilt engine regards Keith
  8. I only have the 78-79 BTDC figures what is the correct settings for this year
  9. Hi all how exactly do you check the timing on my 1976 2.7s regards Keith
  10. Think I’ve sorted it now good old Tonbridge Porsche keith
  11. Hi all Almost completed the full restoration of my 2.7s 1976 I just found the fuel warning lamp mounted in the fuel gauge not working and it’s the bulb holder . apparently this 2 connection holder has a very small push in bulb not a twist type. its I’m told is a 2 watts or lower bulb could this holder part no be 99963200910 and the bulb 90063110290 not to be confused with all the other gauge bulbs any info appreciated regards Keith By the way it’s a two connection plastic bulb holder
  12. It’s a good quality connector block basically called a barrier block 30amp and has a plastic cover , this I have fitted nicely on the ally panel and is covered by the plastic cover and can’t be seen it means if you were to remove the engine you would have to undo the wires which is no big deal really regards Keith
  13. Thanks luke I was once an electrical engineer which helps although it’s different to auto electrics. ill check out what you have said thanks the loom I had was tatty to say the least and as I’ve made one for my gt40 I thought I’d give it a go Porsches are a bit different from most older cars, as I’m finding out but I like a challenge . all wire, relays etc are all new
  14. Wow so much info I’m again confused . the trouble is I have completely remade a loom to what I believe correct, everything works as it should I have followed the original circuit diagrams but not 100% im not sure of the sequence of the starting circuit but have gained some info from your posts fortunately for me I know an auto electrician who has worked on air cooled Porsches for years and as soon as I can get him over to run over these final points the better but him being retired he don’t go out when it’s cold so I got to fit in with him, which is how this restoration has been throughout I know I’m in the final throws now though just about everything is done ill keep you informed thanks again Keith
  15. Thanks for all this info yes I have original circuit diagrams and can confirm the WUR and air valve are fed from terminal 30 but if the fuel pump only runs when cranking then surely the pump would stop running when not cranking. So I assumed the fuel relay was fed from the run terminal on the ignition switch which stays on until you switch off so turn on the ignition, pump runs. turn off ignition pump stops keith
  16. Note that I do not have a 14 pin connector block, this was discarded as badly broken and I have a good quality connector block neatly installed behind the rear fuse cover the loom is not original Porsche as this was in poor condition prior to the restoration and I have made the loom myself. everything works well and correct and looks good, maybe better than an original would look. its now just a few final wiring points to sought out I do have copies of the original Porsche circuit diagrams
  17. Sorry I’m having a brain storm the car is a 76 2.7s CiS not mfi my reason is I’m connecting in the WUR and air valve which both are fed from the fuel pump relay. Basically once the ignition is on the fuel pump runs, the energised fuel pump relay sends a feed to the WUR and Air valve, the WUR and air valve are these energised continuously and self adjusting .
  18. Hi all 2.7s1976 MFI im nearing the point when the car will be run 2 1/2 years after staring a full restoration. I have a question the supplementary air valve and the warm up regulator are fed via the same red / white wire off the fuel pump relay but is the warm up reg a sort of choke and what does the supplementary air valve actually do. perhaps I should know and I do have someone I can ask but thought I’d put the question on the forum regards keith
  19. Hi all not that it matters but there are a series of holes about 1 mm that run from the bottom of the A pillar and along the top of the body over the door just proud of the door rubber seal. the holes were there but there was nothing in them when I stripped the car Im assuming there was a trim there of sorts thought ? regards Keith
  20. Updated this is regarding the brake bleeding of Stuttgart Classica calipers This worked for me the front 6 pot calipers and rear 4 pots must have a banjo and bolt type into the calipers as a normal brake pipe fitting was too long and stopped fluid getting through Therefore banjo bolt, banjo, 2 copper seals, fitting m10 x1, and -3 steel flex brake pipe brakes bled perfect first time why the supplier wouldn’t tell me this when I repeatedly asked I know not Regards Keith
  21. Thanks for the info ive ordered new banjo bolts for the rears and ill probably make up new flex lines for the last section into the calipers I’ll let you know 👍
  22. Also I had to send them back to S Classica but they said they were tested and working correctly 🤔
  23. I have fluid right up to the rear calipers if you remove the pipe at the caliper it flows ok but once the fitting is screwed back into the caliper nothing flows out the nipples and the brake pedal is solid its as if there’s no flow through the caliper hence I think it could be the brake fitting where it goes in the caliper blocking this is why I’ll get a banjo and try that tje front has a banjo and that working well
  24. Hi all I have fitted upgraded brakes to my 76 2.7s. I have an issue which I think I have the answer but wondered if anyone might have experienced similar my from calipers are 6 pot from Stuttgart Classica and from the strut they terminate at the caliper with a solid pipe into a banjo bolt on the caliper. The brakes bleed correctly BUT the rears 4 pot have solid copper pipe directly into the caliper ( no banjo ). And I cant get fluid out of the caliper bleed nipples was thinking the pipe fitting has to go fully in to seal and May be causing no thru flow having a banjo bolt means it doesn’t go fully in as it seals with copper washers. I’ve ordered two banjos for the rears and will try this as the fronts are ok cant Get any clear answers from S. C thoughts ? regards Keith
  25. 👍 I thought as much suppression of the CDI unit as it feeds off the CDI red and the brown earth on the earth terminal on the CDI 👍
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