Leicestershire
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Posts posted by Leicestershire
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3 hours ago, World Citizen said:
Chevette uprights, Mk4 Cortina hubs, Capri 2.8 vented discs and Volvo 240 calipers
This sounds very similar to an early 'Striker' front end.
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As above then look at drive shafts/CV joints, differential bearings and then start working back deeper in the gearbox.
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If your oil system is in good health without sludge blocking everything unscrew the drain plug let the oil drain into a container. When it almost stops dripping, replace the container with another empty tray and leave the drain plug removed for a couple of days. Eventually, the oil cooler and lines will drain back into the tank/ crankcase.
Just be careful when you start to drive the car after the oil change. Once it gets up to full temperature and the thermostat opens, the level in the tank will drop by around 1.5 litres.
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The bolts at the ends of the engine bar typically seize resulting in the ends of the bar bending.
Don't forget if you try to change the mounts with the wheels on the floor, the suspension will raise as you try to unscrew the bolts.
With the correct sockets it a very easy job.
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Do it this way if you want.....
This guy makes it look like hard work.
Plastic rivet - don't use a tool as shown in the video, you will probably break the rivet. Put your arm up the inside of the B Post and feel for the rivet. Use rear edge of a drill bit to push the inner pin of the rivet in and catch it your hand. Then push the body of the rivet out from the inside of the B Post.
Don't remove the metal trim from the assembly.
From the inside of the car gently roll the screen seal back a lubricate with silicone spray (pure silicone not a silicone and lubricant)
Start from the rear edge of the car gently push from the rear edge of the glass. As you push help the rubber over the edge of the aperture.
If you have a spare person, they can help using a suction cup on the outside and pulling as you push.
If you know what you are doing it's sub 15 mins to get a stubborn one out.
It's a very easy way into the car if the keys get locked inside.
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4 hours ago, angusb said:
If the seal is in good condition, then you really won`t need any paste around the window. The factory did not apply this.
What found I needed was Length of Parachute cord, tub of Vaseline, plastic trim tools, large rubber mallet and old carpet- to re seat the Aluminium trim into groove. Take a note of how the seal fits against the body flange, on the straight section by the door, If this is not refitted in the correct way, the door will not close properly.
regards Angus
I beg to differ over the factory not using sealant between the glass and rubber.
Vaseline will degrade the seal. Use silicone spray.
Fitting the aluminium trim into the seal before fitting the assembly to the car will avoid the need for mallets and carpet.
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1 hour ago, Chris_911 said:
@Leicestershire Thanks!
Do you know what material they used on the glass? I'd like to maintain the factory approach.
Sorry, I don't know what was used back in the factory.
You can buy glazing putty in gun tube and I have often thought about giving it a try but over the years, I have done countless 911 screens and never had anything leak between the glass and the rubber.
I guess the modern alternative would be to run a fine bead of silicone in the bottom of the seal before fitting the glass. Silicone would also be much easier to clean without leaving any marks on the rubber.
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Trim is held in with self tapping screws.
All G cars including 3.2's have plastic washers under the trim. If they aren't there then either missed at factory (unlikely) or lost during previous work.
Porsche used a type of glazing putty to seal the glass inside the rubber seal.
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6 hours ago, World Citizen said:
Haven't JLR already got electronics that can be sabotaged as their cars always seem to have bad reviews about shutting down on owners 🤔
Failure to proceed has been a bit of a JLR failing for a number of years. The more recent electronics issue have been in connection with vehicle security resulting in countless vehicles being stolen and certain models being uninsurable.
Over the years I have employed and worked with several LR employees.
The stories of bodgery are difficult to comprehend on 'premium' vehicles.
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19 hours ago, hmg said:
It’s not quite as bad as the oil debate but can somebody please tell me what the winner was so I don’t lose 15 minutes of my life watching that vid 🤭
Rusty bolts - buff the top flush spray in wax oil a return in a week otherwise use oxy-gas torch and do the job properly.
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Open cell foam.
I replace these with air filter foam.
If you have a sunroof car you can possibly replace the foam with removing the rear screen.
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5 hours ago, Ian Comerford said:
Interesting discussion on mild hybrids. The long haired bank manager’s new wheel is one of these. I was trying to understand from theAudi blurb what it meant and it wasn’t clear. It’s also not clear to the Government as there is no tax advantage…….
Around 2016 the road tax brackets changed making most hybrids eligible for full road tax.
My wife has a lexus hybrid - Toyota in fancy dress. I look at it as all the benefits of a diesel without any of the disadvantages.
It's almost silent, around 60 mpg, low cost servicing and the reliability of an anvil.
It will only travel around 5 miles and max speed of 40 mph on electric power. That's enough for most trips through town. It continually uses electric assistance during normal driving to maximise efficiency.
Paying a bit of road tax is a small price for easy motoring.
However if driving is your thing you are going to need something else for weekends to put the fun back into driving.
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1 hour ago, Lesworth said:
I removed and reinstalled the rear quarter glass on the 924 several times and had no issues. My problem came when I removed the trim and changed the seal. The trim just would not stay seated firmly enough to install the window. I tried trim first and then seal on glass. Seal on glass and then trim. I've ended up just deleting the trim. I dont want to do that with the 911 though.
If using a new seal fit it to the glass and place on a flat surface somewhere warm overnight then fit the trim.
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7 minutes ago, Phill said:
Fitting the rear side glass with a new seal was one of the hardest jobs I ever did on the 911. Took me and my son a good couple of hours and lots of sweating and huffing and puffing.
20 minutes if you get it right.
Seal on the glass. Then fit the trim. Lube the seal with silicone spray plus a bit on the window opening. Fit your string / rope with an overlap along the top edge.
Add a second string running from the top B post around the glass back to the B post along the bottom.
Push the assembly firmly in towards the B post.
Firm pressure on glass whilst pulling the shorter string from both 'B post' ends.
The second string is there for clean up or second bite if required.
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On 24/11/2023 at 08:41, Lesworth said:
Amazing how much lighter the crumple mounts are than the shock type.
On another note, my favourite job so far (not) is removing the rear reflector. There is a special place reserved in hell for the person that though those metal clips were a good idea!
Once again, too late to help on this occasion but for others reading remove the exhaust and the metal filler piece that sits under the reflector.
Then you can push the clips out from from the inside.
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Top pipe goes to the right side of the cooler, lower to the left.
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I use a pump up garden sprayer. Pressure gives gravity a helping hand!
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Another Aprilia inbound.
Hot-rodded 2023 RSV4 1100.
Crazy 200 kg & 210 bhp at the wheel.
Despite age, 30+ years of riding bikes with a clean license (touch wood) and full NCB finding someone willing to insure the thing has been difficult.
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2 hours ago, Shea said:
As for not going sooner to see the car and force the issue, I should have but just had a lot on, house move, moved cities, newborn etc.
Sorry to be harsh (I am always a bit blunt) but it does read a bit like you have used the body shop as car storage.
Projects need to be managed.
Put everything in writing (e-mail with read receipts / reply), define the scope of the project and set firm parameters.
Agree milestones with payments and regular visits - if you can't make the visit send someone else.
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Too late now but a screen cutting wire (sort of cheese wire) lubricated with white spirit works best for me.
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15 hours ago, Beaky said:
I could be wrong (I'm sure a few Indies told me this) but plates LSD's are better than Torque LSD's for an IB particularly for deceleration dynamics - over to the experts 🤔
ATB type differentials provide forward drive if both wheels have contact with firm ground. Good for traction away from standing start and still allow for a bit of showboating on roundabouts and hairpin bends. However they don't provide any 'limited slip' function on a closed throttle. They are more refined and in normal use its difficult to detect that an ATB type unit is fitted. If you bounce off a kerb or a wheel parts company with the road it behaves like an open diff.
The pro ATB type followers will argue that the plate type LSD's will increase the amount of understeer and the plate chatter / chunter is not a great sound for a 911. ATB's are generally more reliable with fewer parts requiring service or set up.
Plate type LSD's are set with 2 ramp angles - positive throttle & closed throttle. Generally a 911 is set with increased 'LSD function' on a closed throttle with the argument that a rear engine car isn't short of traction and restricting the differential on a closed throttle keeps things pointing in the in right direction on a closed throttle. On a damp track when you run out of tallent you can feel a plate diff pulling the rear of the car back in-line.
To make good progress they do require a change to regular driving habits.
Despite the reputation that all 911's go backwards through hedges as soon as it rains my personal experience is very different with a well set up plate type differential IB's are very benign.
If you have a track focussed LSD they can snatch a bit on the road causing the drive shafts to click.
As the gearbox and diff share the same oil the use of LSD additives is not recommended.
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For years I ran a dehumidifier in my garage but a couple of years back I fitted a bathroom type extractor fan fitted to a 13a plug (3a fuse). It's plugged into a time clock and switches on 3 x 45 mins per day. I already had a wall vent so fitting was easy.
I have noticed no real difference in storage conditions over the dehumidifier, saved a stack of energy but this does require 240v mains electricity.
A 12v / solar fan system may work but most humidity usually occurs on the cold / dark days with limited daylight hours.
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https://www.lifting-equipment.co.uk/shop/product/hoisting/william-hacket-wh-l4-lever-hoist/
Ref using a car closely following the vehicle being pulled up your drive.
What are the consequences if something fails and the car becomes a runaway?
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Have you got a solution for where the slope transitions into a flat.
If you have a working handbrake a lever hoist would make easy work of this.
I would also have someone following close behind in a vehicle with good brakes to catch things should the unthinkable happen.
A friend from uni had disaster moving a triumph spitfire. It wouldn't surprise me if 30+ years later he is still repaying the costs incurred as a result the incident.
Pondering selling car
in 3.2 Carrera
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I have had the same thoughts about selling for about 5 years.
If you can hang on, now is not the best time to sell a classic 911. Prices are a bit soft and stuff seems to move slowly.
Be prepared for a random assortment of wheel kickers and general time wasters.
The only other advice I can offer:
Once you get out of a classic 911, it's very difficult to get back in.
There are many past owners that sold cars 12 or so years back and now wish to get back into 911's but can't stomach the price rise.