blacklotus99

Mate, you may want to put these up on the pelican turbo board if you havent done so already. Cheers.

Thats a shame but not unexpected. Stupid manufacturers. I just fitted the Dunlop Z1 star specs on my alfa and they are excellent. Theyre a cross between a high perf road tyre and an R spec. They are very soft but have R spec like dry grip. Basically its a DZ03 with more grooves in it. I think Yokohama might be making one these style tyres also. If you want performance you could go to a 195/50 205/50 in these. They also do a 205/60 but thats not really helpful without a matching front. Toyo T1R would be another one. Great road tyre. 195/55 (or 185/55) 205/50 would work. If youre looking to stick with 60 series I guess C drives.

Bridgestone adrenalin RE001 are the pick for street tyres. Theyre quite soft and they do them in a 195/60 215/60. Softer compound than the C drives. Lots of people using them as 60 series perf tyres are hard to find.

Im amazed the whole car is still there in the morning! Anyone can get those locknuts off with a couple of simple tools and 10 minutes. Not much of a deterrent if someone is keen on a set of 7s and 8s.

I dont know enough about it to comment on whether those figures are realistic or not. I do know the guys pretty well though and that 304 figure wouldnt have come from nowhere. That car would have spent hundreds of hours on the dyno over many years and they were basically saying we've cracked the 300 mark with that car. Obviously that MFI car has an RSR pump on it and a custom designed space cam of whatever type. It also has things like a 20k sterling titanium exhaust system. Friendly dyno? Doubt it, pretty sure its the same one all the guys in that area use including all the v8 guys. All this stuff is totally irrelevant for a road car clearly and I dont know many people putting elf race gas in their road cars. The CIS tuning I dont know but when the guy said C3 followed by "very, very close" in the same sentence as "304fwhp" I stopped and took notice. Thats all. I personally dont really care either way given I dont have a 2.7 or 3.0 historic car. What I do know is that if they didnt unfairly exclude the early turbo from group Sc (for production sports car to '77) then this wouldnt mean much as the 2.7 and 3.0 would be laps behind any turbo. I think it would be great to see the 930 and 2002 doing battle a la group 4 style in historics. Pipe dream. With their profile I cant imagine them cheating Michael, give them a call and ask. You said they built a motor for you previously, yes? If that 2.7 is actually 2.9 Im sure there would be some pretty upset people around and given theyre all friends I think its highly unlikely. Youre right though JG, theyre not afraid to swap paint up the front there, thats for sure. Friends or not. GT3 driven quickly in something like targa tas? Thats danger of the first order. Think that sad number is probably about right.

Think again on that 300hp. Down here there is a '76 3.0 that has just been built for historic racing by the guys who look after my car. As I understand it the build was a case of 'I want to run up the front with the quickest 2.7s'. From memory the owner of the new car is an ex DTM driver or something. Down here there are probably 4 2.7s that run up the front and one particular car that is usually a little way ahead. That 2.7 has been developed over many years with a big open cheque book. I was told a few months ago that its now making 304fwhp with more to come they think. In historic Sc you arent allowed to change capacity or induction type but compression, cams, porting etc is free. The guys have told me that the new C3 thats just been built is "very, very close" in outright power to that 2.7. One of the guys mentioned that they have found a way to tune the CIS to give it big power. Dont know the details but I know its only happened in the last 12 months and there is now a backlog of C3s waiting to be worked on. CIS was always the thing that held back the C3 compared to the 2.7, but it sounds like those days might be over. I saw this new C3 being fired up a while back. Its obviously got big compression as it was bucking and skipping around being moved in the car park.

Couple of controversial comments there JG... For me, its really a question about history and the developments and technologies of the era. The 2.7 MFI was the final engine development of the original 64 car. The RS, RSR, the history etc etc. CIS was introduced for 76 for emissions reasons and to keep fuel consumption under control. MFI is brutal on fuel, probably worse than big PMOs plus the big MFI motors, 2.7+ are meant to run quite rich so that exacerbates it. They really were from another era. There is simply nothing like a big MFI motor on full song period. Of course there is EFI etc but those technologies dont belong to that era. Of course you can put a 993 turbo motor in your C3 or whatever but why? It defeats the purpose of the car as a representation of the time. Thats the whole point. If youre after technology go and get a mk2 gt3rs like I saw today and chatted with the owner. What a stunning thing and the owner was spot on for it too. He was young, rich and couldnt care less about the history of porsche or any of that. He is their ideal customer these days... when a new gt3 comes out he upgrades the previous one. He loves the tech, the power, the hydraulic lift in the front etc. Good for him. You can get big power out your C3 too now these days. Depending on the size of your wallet you can keep the 3.0 capacity and CIS and get 300hp if you so choose. If you want a high tech car get a new one, thats what theyre all about.

I think the last time I checked a factory ZF LSD from porsche was 8k (ridiculous). I bought the modena (guards) diff for 3k I think. The modena billet diffs are about 100x better than the factory ones. No one fits a factory one these days, they are inferior. There are 2 types of LSD made. ZF (also called plate or clutch type) and Quaife (or torque sensing) diffs. Most people prefer ZF type diffs in the 911 but quaife is used by some tarmac rally guys. Pretty much all track cars would be ZF because its easy to modify the locking factor by adding or subtracting clutch packs etc. If youre in Sydney call Autohaus in Brookvale. They can probably source the correct diff and of course fit and modify it for your application.

If its road/track use then stick with the ZF clutch type LSD. Can be modified to suit your driving style. In AU you should probably go with a Modena billet LSD which is the Guard equivalent. I think Modena here make them for Guard actually or used to. They make them for all the WRC teams etc and are exc. quality. For a 3.0 you may need a fine spline as opposed to the coarse spline of the early cars. Also depends on the half shafts you have in the car. Your mechanic should be able to tell you what you need. The types arent interchangeable. From memory the LSD is about AU3k to buy plus fit and any mods. These are asymmetric diffs as opposed to the factory ZF diffs and you can add or subtract clutch packs to achieve more lockup. Most people go with 40/40 or 40/60 for the road. I had 50/80 in my car which was great for the track but pretty aggressive on the street. Make sure you use someone who knows how to properly setup these diffs for your application. Dont let amateurs mess around with your 3k diff!!

It applies to all 911s maybe with the exception of the 996/997 era. You need to be quick with the wheel when they let go. I dont know many people who would overdrive a pre 89 911 on the road, that is past the limit, youre just asking for trouble. Drive them with respect though at 8 or 9/10ths and theyre great road cars. The turbo is a little different with power on, particularly in the wet. You want to make sure the wheels are pointed straight when 4k comes up on the dial and you have your foot in it. The turbo is quite different to drive than the NA cars. You dont throw a turbo around with abandon like you can with an NA car. Try and drive an early turbo quickly in the wet and you understand where the widowmaker thing comes from, mind you, you would have to be a complete fool to nail a turbo in a 2nd gear corner just before the boost comes in! Where the turbo is unreal is on those long open sweepers in 3rd where the car just sits down and grips at big speed. NA cars just dont have the ground covering pace of the turbo in that kind of fast stuff. I just imagine its a mini 934 at Laguna or Sebring and it all makes sense! In the tight stuff the turbo doesnt work as well as an NA car because of the lag. Driving a turbo in the boost in 1st and 2nd at the limit through tight stuff is very challenging and takes major skill, easy in an NA car. If you havent done the turbo thing, its a great contrasting experience to say a 3.2. Plus your 3.2 will feel ridiculously slow in comparison. If you want a factory car stick with the earlier lighter cars. If you dont mind modified go with a 3.3 with about 400hp preferably something by RUF!

The 3.0 is the more pure car, its the original. The earlier it is the lighter and quicker it is. The 3.3 got heavier and more of a luxury feel as time went on. Good 3.0 cars are very tough to find, most got crashed or rusted away. Lots of decent 3.3 cars around as they sold lots of them. Agree about 10mpg if used correctly. You can literally watch the needle going down. No one cares though because youre usually doing 100+ when its happening. Not much difference in running costs between 3.0 and 3.3. Parts are often expensive and they are time consuming to work on compared to an NA car. Anywhere between 50-100% more expensive to run than NA in my view.

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Talk to these guys about parts if you havent already. Never know what they have for early cars assuming all the Aussies havent raided the place already. http://www.europacific.co.nz/

Yeah had that thought too. Carrera cooler with fan would do the trick. When it warms up later in the year its likely to become an issue again. Just cant stray too far with this car, have other ones to do that with.