Full throttle position

[Von Twinzig]

Sorry guys, but this might get me a muppet certificate.

 

I'm talking with SW in the States and looking at my full throttle position. He is trying to work out if my engine is fully accessing the full throttle fuel map

 

I've checked with a meter and my full thottle switch is activating at around 3/4 pedal travel so that seems to be okay.

 

However I did notice that when the pedal is all the way down to the floor I can still turn the butterfly spindle about another 10mm or so before it hits the stop although the spring starts to take up a negative angle at that point.

 

Do you think my butterfly is opening fully or is this position for the thing normal i.e. not against the stop?

[jevvy]

I would say you need it closer to the stop than you describe and also its a little unusual that the WOT switch is activating as early as 3/4 - I would try to adjust this to happen a little later especially since you arent getting full throw anyway.

 

There are various adjusters throughout the throttle linkage that you can use to tweak this - I went for the ones that werent rusted solid.

[Von Twinzig]

Thanks Jevvy - Only really worked on carb cars and mostly adjusted them so everything was max'd about 1-2mm short of the stop, this does look a liitle wierd.

 

I'll look to close things up a bit maybe.

[Guest Peter915]

Twinny,

There are (I think) four places you can adjust throttle linkage.

1/ Beside gearbox, left side.

2/ On top of crankcase, of centre, left.

3/ Behind throttle pedal.

4/ Footwell, inside tunnel, left side.

I screwed 1 and 3 on mine right-up to max and just got full throttle.

Happy screwing.

PJ

[Von Twinzig]

Cheers Pete - so you found four places to screw in an IB, is this a record I wonder?

 

I'll start on the easier ones and move on to the more difficult positions I think!

[Jacob]

I've checked with a meter and my full thottle switch is activating at around 3/4 pedal travel so that seems to be okay.

 

Twinny,

 

What meter did you use for this and how did you do it?

 

I'm also working with wongmeister on extracting more bhp - although the AFR is going to need more guess work than anything else.

Lesson learnt for next time - cover 1 pipe off

[strosek34]

Twinny,

 

I am sure I have read correct adjustment is 1.0mm to the stop, as Peter said there are a few places to adjust the slack, also check the bushes in the bell crank area on the top of the gearbox area for wear. You need to be careful not to get an over the top adjustment situation where the throttle stays full open when you floor it, does that make sense ?.

 

Do a search on Pelican, there's loads of stuff on THROTTLE LINKAGE adjustment.

 

Jevvy, its correct that the FULL THROTTLE SWITCH operates at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle,

 

I have recently been through all this with Steve Wong

 

Jacob, I hope you are having more luck with SW than I am.

I am not getting any warm feelings at the moment about why mine under performed at the dyno day.

Edited October 5, 2006 by strosek34

[anthonyw]

Hi Twinney,

 

I checked this on my car a week before the Dyno day, and found that i was only getting about 2/3 full throttle!!

 

One reason was that someone had tightened the air flow jubilee clip in the way of the linkage which was stopping It!!

 

Once that was sorted, I re-checked and found that it was similar to yours, nearly at the stop but not quite.

 

I adjusted mine in the passenger footwell, just down under the tunnel. Undo the clip, pop of the joint and adjust the 'slack' out of the cable. 5 minute job. I can now get it to touch the stop when pressing the throttle.

 

After driving it for 3 months before doing this, I wish I had found it sooner

 

Hope this helps

 

Anthony.

[Von Twinzig]

Hey guys thanks very much for all the pointers.

 

Gonna' get onto it this weekend. I'll start in the footwell I think, sounds the right route to me.

[strosek34]

If you can't get the linkage loose, tw4t it with a BFH,

 

 

Oh Sorry wrong thread,

[Von Twinzig]

BFH's at the ready Steve - Thinking of getting some of those cut-away holsters like the quick draw guys use

[Von Twinzig]

Twinny,

 

What meter did you use for this and how did you do it?

 

I'm also working with wongmeister on extracting more bhp - although the AFR is going to need more guess work than anything else.

Lesson learnt for next time - cover 1 pipe off

Jacob –

 

Before you start take both connectors off the full throttle switch and set your meter to read volts. Turn on the ignition and put the probes on the end terminals on the loom side on each of the two connectors in turn. You should read 5v from the ECU in each case.

 

Turn off the ignition.

 

Just take the bottom connector off the full throttle switch and put the multi meter probes on the top two terminals. The bottom terminal is not used.

 

Set your meter to register a circuit (mine makes a tone) and then get somebody to press down the pedal. At around 3/4 to the floor the switch should close and register as a circuit on the meter all the way to the floor.

 

If so all is well. If not, you have to loosen the two screws holding the switch on and twist it clockwise until you make a circuit. It’s a bit like setting the points on a dizzy.

 

Mine was okay when I checked, but my butterfly is not opening fully so I need to take up the slack in my throttle linkage.

[Jacob]

Jacob, I hope you are having more luck with SW than I am.

I am not getting any warm feelings at the moment about why mine under performed at the dyno day.

 

TBH, probably not. To get another chip burnt is going to cost me another 100 bucks I always thought this was free.

My main concern is that the AFR means nothing,(It went verticle at about 3,000 revs) so to get an accurate chip done I need to re-dyno and start off again.

 

I'm quite tempted to get a live re-map by Wayne S or ninemeister in the new year - More car specific and instant results.