Simondo

I had a similar issue. Turned out to be the crank sensors - you can test resistance at the connection point as per below. Its located to the left side of the engine

While the injectors are out it makes sense to clean them if you haven't already - injector cleaner kits are cheap and universal fit. Took a single can of cleaner and 20 minutes to do them all - car was so much happier afterwards and spray patterns were visibly improved for a £15 total spend. I'm sure the specialist companies do it better but this cheap DIY effort worked great for me

Paint looks like metallic slate blue as it bears a pretty strong resemblance to mine. I've been considering going to black wheel centres as mine are close to body colour but annoyingly slightly different. I think they look rather good! Not seen your old car as its a close a match as they come - I'm well over 150,000 miles and going strong

Porsche centres have surprisingly good prices for some (but not all) parts - they're one of the first places I call when I need anything. When I've needed expensive /difficult parts such as a blower relay they offered a pretty good discount as they seem to have a genuine interest in supporting the brand heritage

My similar problems were solved by doing the flywheel sensors. Heres how to check them easily

Thanks for this new area to explore - I'm guessing you mean through the smugglers box when you say from above. I don't mind a challenge/skinned knuckles so will have a try at this over the next few days (when I'm not at pesky work which always seems to get in the way of making meaningful progress with anything!)

Universal joints, bearings and bushes good. Play is Between lower UJ and ball joints so its looking like rack or inner track rods - sadly I replaced with turbo track rods a few years ago so it looks like rack and pinion rebuild time - Might do the shocks first just in case as they are as old as the hills

Thanks for the heads up - taking a look this pm

I've had a rapid onset problem which I'm hoping someone will recognise The steering has gone from pin sharp as it should be to really vague - As I'm driving along i can move the wheel backwards and forwards by about 1/4 turn with no change in direction and feels a bit like I've had a puncture (actually pulled over and checked when it happened). When the steering does kick in its precise with no nasty noises. Visual check and ball joints shows all is connected and tight and moving freely. No weeping from shocks. Feedback of road surface through the wheel is as it should be when going in a straight line.

Turned out I had 2 problems. The relay box AND a dropped earth for the control box at a connector between the seat belt mounts. Had a heart sinking moment when I put the new £280 box in to get...nothing... When I found the brown wire it took a quick check with Bentley to make sure it was the one from the connector missing a wire. Hooked it up and...bingo...

I solved some dodgy running issues by cleaning connection for CHT. Its to the left of the blower fan. Its the top white plug in attached image. If that doesn't work you can test - resistance somewhere in region of 2-4 Kilohms (maybe more out in the cold) would be about right.

Visual inspection shows no broken tracks or rubbish solder joints. I reckon its a component failure but working out which one is beyond my ability - It gets the switched "key on" feed, the coil on the relay is OK and current flows to the fan when operated manually so the obvious bases are covered

Hi all. I've got an 84 3.2 Carrera with autoheat. The interior blower relay in the engine compartment appears to have failed but I'd really like to check with a known good one before ordering a very expensive part based on my (limited) electrical testing skills. Are there any IBers around the Bournemouth, Dorset area with one I could put into my car to check I'm right? Cheers Simon

My starting problems (always at maximum embarrassment locations) were down to the engine speed and TDC sensors. The connectors are in the engine bay so its 10 minutes with a multi meter to check their resistance

When my flywheel sensors went it was terrible at starting. Replacing them was awkward but doable DIY. My kangarooing at low constant revs wasn't fixed until I realised the connection for the cylinder head temp sensor was rubbish - a quick squirt of contact cleaner and the car is smoother, quicker and pops a bit less from the exhaust

S02's for me - Plenty of grip wet and dry for spirited road use and wearing well. I'll be sad if they have actually stopped production in my size

Hi Doudi I have found parts at http://www.design911.co.uk/. The website is extensive with good diagrams to see assemblies. The prices have 20% tax added at the checkout. German Ebay has lots of parts - I use google translate to learn German names.

I've had a very similar experience - turned out to be the TDC sensor which was a bit of a sod to replace due to a difficult location however the test can be done pretty easily. The Bentley manual gives loads of detail but this link http://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28528-non-starter-solved/ should give you an idea of what I went through to find the issue

A few weeks ago I jumped in the car for the first time in a while. Turned the key after disarming the alarm and immobiliser and got...nothing. I charged the battery and tried to start the car, got a few turns over then just solenoid clicks. Checked starter connections and they all appeared OK. Did notice the earth strap was pretty corroded so ordered up a new one. Jumped the starter to find the battery simply didn't have the amps to get a good speed so replaced the battery and stuck the starter back in. New battery turned the engine over nice and quickly. Not even a cough or attempt to start. Checked the DME working on the theory that this might be knackered - took the cover off and could see it operating properly. I could hear the fuel pump going so was happy this was OK. Checked spark - nothing. Coil was getting a supply and dizzy looked fine. Plugs were dry so it looked like the issue was possibly engine management so I started to suspect TDC/speed sensors especially as I'd had a single mystery non start a few months ago. First check was at the big plug into the control module. When I checked the pins it was clear I'd found the problem. TDC sensor created absolutely no voltage when the engine was cranked. Jacked the car up to get to the sensors - without a pit or ramp this is far from easy access. the sensors wouldn't come undone so I removed the bracket complete with sensors. When I tried to undo the allen bolt it sheared leaving about 4 or 5mm above the surface face. A few days of penetrating oil followed by a few heat cycles and some nervous mole wrenching got the thread out without needing to drill or get into difficult territory with this bracket which I'd imagine is impossible to replace. The TDC was cemented in by white alloy corrosion but it cleaned up OK. Finally got a dry day to put the sensors back on (easier than removing them) and IT BLOODY WORKS!!!!! The important lessons were... Researching these forums gave me lots of ideas to try Sensors should have a resistance of about 900 Ohms. Accessing the sensors is a real PITA for a normal home mechanic setup - the area is pretty exposed and there was a fair bit of corrosion. Easiest test for the sensors was resistance and voltage at the plug into the engine management (see photo). Second check to confirm can be done at the plug in the engine compartment. TDC wire will be labelled BG and speed DG if they are originals. Use a battery conditioner Setting the sensor gap at 0.8mm needs the old sensor with something superglued to its face. I found a cheap spade fuse was the perfect thickness

Turned out to be a rubbish connection in the aftermarket immobiliser circuit which I disturbed while pulling the wiring around to get the door looms out. I was worried that I had more melted wiring but can now relax and take it out for a drive in the sunshine Panic over!!

I have recently had a wiring "issue" where the drivers door electric window circuit melted itself, smoked very worryingly and blew the fuse. I discovered that the earth was rubbish and had been bypassed with a dodgy repair so remade the loom. After lots of messing around to get to this point I was very pleased that the window works again. Unfortuneately it works with the ignition off as does the sunroof. To really top things off nicely the engine starts as it should, runs perfectly for appx 15 seconds then stops dead. It has the factory little stick immobiliser and an aftermarket alarm. Any suggestions of places to start looking? I'm suspecting the engine issue is that the immobiliser is cutting the feed but have no idea where its physically located. Is anyone aware of circuitry in common between windows and immobiliser?

Just done this myself. Its quick and easy. I wd40'd the join between the motor shaft and plastic fan then put the assembly on a workmate opened just enough to let the motor through as I drifted it down and out with a small hammer and punch. The plastic held up without a problem. I pressed the new motor shaft into the fan after cleaning lubricant off (I used my workmate and an appropriate sized socket to press as I don't have a large enough vice). **Measure the amount of shaft poking through so you can get the replacement in the same location as the clearances in the housing are quite tight** Simples

I've just managed to sort out my non moving odometer/trip meter. I was a bit nervous but decided to give it a go, I'm pretty practical but certainly no ace mechanic. It took about 3 hours total and was not at all difficult following the instructions: http://www.odometergears.com/documentation/Porsche_911_20_x___Odometer_Gear_Replacement.pdf http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/964-1989-1994-911/229966-odometer-repair-diy-993-964-and-maybe-968-a.html There is relevant info on http://www.odometergears.com/ I purchased the cog from http://www.plastikzahnrader.com/ who were on the distributor list of odometergears as the postage was much less. The website is a bit dodgy looking but the transaction is carried out via Paypal so they don't ask for a posting address. It took about 8 days to arrive and cost about £17 quid all in. Useful to know: The speedo just levers out of the dash - its held in place by a a rubber ring/friction There is no zero mark on the dial face, I grabbed the needle off without checking and now need to calibrate it using a GPS to get the needle position exactly right which is a right pain - you can learn from my mistake!!