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About Fuchs915

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

Profile Information

  • Location
    From Kent, currently residing in Essex.

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    '84 3.2 Targa
  • Lottery Car
    Other than treating my 911 to a full overhaul, a '65 Stingray
  • Day Job?
    Risk Manager for an Energy Company
  • Drink?
    Not as often as I like

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859 profile views
  1. Got most of it put back together today. The shiny replated bits do lift the look of the engine bay. Not sure if I'll put anything on the fire wall yet, plan to just drive it for a while. Yep, I know, mad! I have also been inspired by Phill's 3D printing exploits so today engineered a tool to make refitting the accelerator spring easier. It attaches to one end of the spring and is used to apply tension after the farthest end is fitted, allowing easy installation of the end that clips under the intake manifold. This is part of my new StringTech (TM, pat pending) range of products. Going nowhere, soon.
  2. Driveshaft now back on the car. Used a couple of long thin punches to help with aligning the bolt holes and all went on nice and easy. Torqued up and not a rounded bolt head in sight! Result!
  3. Productive day off work today. I had bought a £10 injector cleaner kit off Amazon. Consists of 2 plastic towers, for different size injectors, and matching plugs with leads and croc lips to energise the injector. Pop the leads on the injector and push into the hole at the top of the correct size plastic tower. Pop the button off a can of carb cleaner and insert in bottom of the plastic tower. The tower has a tube running up the middle to a space at the top of the tower where the injector fits. Connect leads to battery, making sure injector clicks, then push down on the can for a shot of cleaner up through the tower and out the end of the injector. You need to hold the injector in the tower otherwise it will pop out under pressure. Repeat for each injector. About 20 minutes work, most of which was setting up. I had a nice spray pattern for each on the first go so assume all good. Also managed to get the refurb'd driveshaft on, a couple of suitable punches worked well to help with alignment of the bolt holes, and all torqued up. Set the valve gaps using my recently acquired Kirk valve tool, made setting the gaps consistently very easy, especially as you can see if the adjuster moves when you tighten the lock nut. Cleaned up and re-torqued a couple of the rocker shafts so they hopefully won't leak now. New gaskets and covers back on. Finally, started reinstalling and connecting the fuel and induction parts on the car. One side done (nearside), bar a few unions/nuts that need tightening. It needs a bit of thought about the order in which to do bits, but got there in the end. The other (offside) parts should be much easier. Maybe running by the end of the weekend...
  4. Filters removed using my new tool. Could probably do it home brew with a self tapper and something to pull with, but this made it very easy. Screw pointy end into filter, doesn't need to go in very far, then twiddle the knurled end, which pulls the screw into the body and that's it. New filters inserted and gently tapped home, so just need to clean the injectors and can get them reinstalled.
  5. Thread is fine so will re-use. Thanks Ivan. Thanks for the check list. Everything else seems fine. One of the reasons I cut the adjuster was to ensure no damage to the rocker thread. No obvious signs of a leak on the inside, cam cover end not so easy to check so will get my scope out for a closer check. I have some RSR seals on order as I do have some carriers that have leaked, belt and braces approach.
  6. Thanks, yes they'll be getting a clean. Having taken them out, it would be a wasted opportunity given the pretty low cost of those kits.
  7. ACO have stated that there will be no more ticket sales at the moment, so TODAY, some restrictions will apply. Might all change tomorrow, etc. I assume that some agents may still have unpurchased tickets but I haven't checked as not planning to go this year. Travel Destinations have confirmed they have their usual site at the Porsche curves so suggests they have customers who have re-scheduled and/or have space/tickets for new.
  8. Starting to get induction and fuel lines back on the engine. While waiting for some bits to arrive, I thought I'd take a look at my no.1 exhaust valve adjuster. I remember when I last did the valves that one of the adjusters was difficult, namely that when I moved the lock nut, the adjuster would jam on the nut so I could only adjust it so far. I managed to get the nut off, it was very tight around the area where the adjuster had been set, so got my tap and die set out. The nut ran freely but I couldn't get the die on the adjuster. So nut seemed OK. If the adjuster was knackered by an over enthusiastic mechanic or PO, then it would need to come off. Ordered a new adjuster and lock nut from @Type911 just in case. To remove the adjuster, the rocker needs to come off. This means sliding the rocker shaft to one side. I made a short 5mm hex socket by cutting down a spare allen key and securing it in a 5mm socket. This should (and did) easily fit in the rocker shaft throughbolt I also had to cut down an 8mm allen key as access to the end nut is not great, you get to it in a gap between the head and the cam housing. Should be easy as they are only torqued (originally) to about 10 ft-lbs. I can only assume the gorilla who knackered the adjuster also did the rocker shaft. I have a 1/4 inch ratchet that is tiny, maybe only 4 inches long which is a great fit, but even applying a decent amount of pressure, the through bolt wasn't giving. So got a flexi joint onto the socket with an extension and a bigger ratchet and the bolt eventually moved. The access is tight because of the exhaust. It's an old exhaust which can't be easily removed as all the joints have rusted together and I probably need to start saving to have it replaced. So with some careful twiddling, the shaft through bolt and end nut came off. I then used an allen key levering against the inside of the rocker shaft to move it until I could move it by hand. Rocker shaft off I thought it was going to be a real pain, but wasn't too bad in the end. I checked the adjuster and it wouldn't go past a particular point in the rocker arm, so rather than force it through and damage the arm, I cut the end off, cut a groovy in the new end and unwound it with a suitable screwdriver. Popped the new adjuster and lock nut on and reinstalled. The rocker shaft moved nicely back to position so almost done. Only question is do I re-use the throughbolt and flaring end nut or replace with new? Thanks Kevin
  9. I use Chubb for some of our corporate insurances and they do have a good attitude to claims. In my experience (I've done it myself in prior employment), the portfolio of business that Lockton has built up through this scheme would have been put out to competitive tender and Axa would have won by making various commitments on the quality of the insurance product and probably enhanced earning potential for Lockton.
  10. 3 or10 for me. But have to appreciate the quality of work and thought for some of the others.
  11. These look better. Even if the Bosch/Porsche kits I'd bought were correct, I just couldn't get my head around having the pintle so far inside the cap so happier that these are the same set up as the originals. Kit from eBay also came with new filters (the Porsche/Bosch kit doesn't) so will pop the new filters in and then put it all back together on the car.
  12. That's what I thought was maybe the case but OPC has confirmed with a picture that it is the correct kit. I have something that I hope will look more like the original parts arriving tomorrow so I'll see how that goes, but it does seem that Bosch (and consequently Porsche) has changed/upgraded/updated the parts for whatever reason. Thanks for the video, confirms what I had been doing for re-assembly so that's peace of mind.
  13. Here is what my local OPC says: In regards to the seals, they have actually provided a picture on the system of what the kit entails (picture same as the kits I have). It looks like potentially they have modified the kit speaking to the workshop controller. He also believes that the cap being slightly taller might stop the injector fowling and collating carbon deposits as it sits further inwards, it might also have a more efficient spray pattern because of this.
  14. Thanks both, and I agree. I have checked the Bosch part number for the kit - 1 287 010 704 - and it seems to be what people like Pelican have as the correct kit so not sure what's going on. I have dropped a note through to my local OPC, including the side by side injector pic, for their thoughts. I have also found some Bosch info for the individual parts, where none of the numbers match the numbers in the kit Maybe superceded parts numbers...?? Yep, that's the fella. Thanks. Have also taken a 15 quid punt on a set from eBay which the seller says ought to fit. We'll find out soon enough!
  15. Here's a shot for the pointy bit (sure it has a technical name). You can see the cap also has a wider lip.

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