Nige

Lol. Porsche don't rust.

That's what I did. Soldered in some extension down to the early style indicators. Quite simple really.

I'd be investigating the bumper mounts. Notorious rot trap.

Although they look to be the same pressing as the existing ones they had an additional X plate over the front face of them. My old didn't have that. I had planned to weld on some thick 5mm repair washers to add strength to the mounting points, but that would have required some hacking about. I figured the old ones had managed ok so these should be fine. I'm running standard 3.2 ARBs. My current favourite chassis paint is Jotun Epoxy. You can get it in RAL colours so have a dark blue for all the underneath stuff. I zinc rich primer first. The Jotun stuff builds up nice and thick and is marine grade stuff.

MikeS911 has pulled together from YouTube and other sources the 911 Engine Build Videos made by Peter Morgan and Nick Fuljames. I've Dropboxed them for easy download. Click here for all 18 videos 740mb Mods, can this be made a sticky like the PDF manuals please.

Yes, parts arrived Monday. They're appear to have more structure about them that the ones on the car, of which corrosion was the main cause of their failure. So I got the grinder out and cut the old ones off. Access was a bit awkward underneath with the car on axle stands but I managed, cleaned up all the surfaces and took the car to www.tkclassics.co.uk who for £30 welded on the new mounts. I didn't fancy trying to get a good weld with the limited space I had, I thought £30 was billy bargain. I thought the old ones had managed 30 years with corrosion being their downfall rather than an inherent weakness so I didn't bother with Wevo, etc for x3 the price. So £100 for the parts (still spendy for what they are) and £30 welding the job is complete.

I've fill all my cracks, crevices and holes with Dinitrol ML. Still not cheap but a couple of cans do go a long way. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dinitrol-ML-Penetrator-Rust-Proofing-Cavity-Wax-500ml-Aerosol/382170614990?hash=item58fb24ccce:g:FMUAAMXQwKdRfKo5:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true Don't know that the difference is (thicker I think) but this version looks better value: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-DINITROL-3125HS-RUST-PROOFING-CAVITY-WAX-500ml-AEROSOL-Extension-nozzle/223226232284?hash=item33f951fddc:g:U2cAAOSwbjNcRaqB:rk:14:pf:0

Certainly not extortionate, though Chris is always sensible anyway.

Nice, how much was it for just the fittings?

Best way. It's not too difficult with the right gear and a car lift, but DIY on your back under a car on axle stands isn't fun. Took me almost all day to drill 3 of the b*ggers out and about 7 days for my shoulders to recover. If they're charging a couple of hundred to fit then rip their hands off.

They're direct into the head, so ali and yeah probably best stick with standard studs. Stainless nuts where just regular items with the barrel nuts from Matt @ Type 911. I guess Titanium studs are the way forward, but I'd imagine regular items will be perfectly fine for many years. The nuts came off the easiest with the barrel nuts bringing half the stud with them, but then the stud remains did resemble a twiglet. Best bet, which has been mentioned before, would be to cut away as much of the heat exchanger as possible leaving good access to die grind/dremel the barrel nuts off the studs without even trying to turn them. Even then you may still want to replace the studs, which may still requiring drilling.

That looks decent stuff, as with most of this stuff I've found it best if you follow the instructions to the letter.

All can be redone in stainless if you want, though that requires the existing studs to come out without a fight. I recently replaced 3 studs with regular steel items, although I did use stainless nuts and barrel nuts. Which is probably pointless as it's the studs that corroded/become brittle. Not sure if stainless is the answer though, I guess it won't corrode but how is it affected by heat cycles? Good luck.

I've just order a pair from carparts4less at £95 for the pair. I'll beef them up with some extra plate before fitting. Might need to have a garage fit them as removing the old ones means laying under the car on axle stands with the angle grinder an inch or so from my pretty face. I'll see if I can get it higher. Also need to repair the chassis a little on one side, already cut and prep'd new metal to weld in.

At about 3 times the price!