Nige
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Quick update, I've installed the Club Sport mounts Ian has kindly loaned. I've fitted them to the engine end and it's much improved, a lot less droning from the exhaust and less vibration, these replaced the Superpro items I installed about 8 years. A success from my point of view. Even some of the minor rattles from the sunroof panel and an annoying one from the passenger door has stopped! Now going to install CS mounts at the gearbox end, I'm guess if I buy CS engine mounts I can then carefully press then out of the metal outer and then press back into my G50 gearbox mount? Anyone d
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It looks like it's about to kick off between Ian and Bradley, but it was quite the opposite.
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This one, brand new from Porsche https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/4055 and this one which is listed as old stock, though probably very little difference. https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/8683
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🤣 Gold Mitsubishi too
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Yes remove the pinch bolt, you'll need to drift it out. Loosen the nut but leave it on the bolt a few threads as that will give you more hammering surface area when drifting. With that removed position the balljoint fork between the strut base and A arm belt it with you lump hammer. It takes some force. Place some over the A arm to protect it, I just bent some sacrificial steel plate around it. I'd also remove the discs for better access. Axle stands and a trolley jack under the A arm for support, etc, etc.
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https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=45697&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=bonnet+badge https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/4055 Or refurb with enamel paint or get new from Porsche themselves.
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Front strut ball joint right? You'll need a new pinch bolt for reassembly, a very sturdy ball joint fork, a hefty lump hammer and decent forearms. I fashioned some thin steel plate that protected the A arm around the balljoint as the fork drags itself across it. A good hammering aim is key. Can't think of any worthwhile whilst you're in there stuff other than considering replacing the balljoint as a whole? You'll have done half the job already.
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Chips Away and all those other smart repair guys seem to manage to match and blend repairs seamlessly. The differences are quite obvious in the photos. Problem is deciding what to do I guess.
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Anyone had their ECU from 1989 Carrera Sport repaired?
Nige replied to 1989Carerra's topic in 3.2 Carrera
I had no start issues years ago, changed sensor and all the other easy stuff. Turned out be the ECU, some solder joints had cracked which were repaired. -
Rustbuster 121 or POR-15 or something else?
Nige replied to Phill's topic in All Other TECHNICAL issues
I would say so, it's messy stuff to try and decant equally into separate tubs. -
Rustbuster 121 or POR-15 or something else?
Nige replied to Phill's topic in All Other TECHNICAL issues
I don't think it goes off/sets as it's two part mix. The big tin I have is still fine after 3-4 years on the shelf. There is usually something to touch up over the year and it always mixes fine. -
Sorry Les, nearly 4 months to reply. I purchased this A7 a few days later, wanted something with a bigger interior and more spivvy.
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Will the car start if you put power to the pump directly?
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I think a Cobra or an R8 is the only thing I'd swap my 911 for. Though I'd have to put up with a replica
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Phew! Nothing like walking away and coming back the next day to find a simple error that's easy to fix. Good spot.
