Nige

Tank to pump is the only flexi section on mine that hasn't been changed. No issues but it's in the 'pipeline'

Also Tim Bennett on DDK is/was a prolific CDI repair specialist. https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=49

Its a great but too much going off over the next couple of weekends for me to commit.

Was close to pulling the trigger, but I totally have zero need for one, even though I tried.

Your lines will be fine, but its what's accumulated in the bottom of the reservoir that will be the problem Years of screen wash and stale water turns to a sticky jelly in bottom of the reservoir, the pickup sits in this and simply blocks ups instantly. Because of this the pickup in the tank gunks up, below image/no3 in the diagram Ian posted, although it says T-Piece its actually a one way valve (so the lines don't drain empty between squirts) with a small gauze filter covering its input, so easily blocks. It usually causes the pump to fail initially, only way is to sort this is to remove the tank and give it a proper blast out with hot water, jet washer etc. Its easy enough to remove, though the exposed clamp (no4) on the bottom can be a little awkward to loosen initially. Clean out the valve/check its clear before refitting. You can run it without the valve, just takes a moment or two longer before the fluid/water reaches the windscreen.

I think the AA just do European cover on per trip basis, could be wrong though. There was a reason why I didn't go with them.

Nice, one of FB marketplace for £200 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2696109064091054

I experienced that, chose not to go with the optional breakdown from the insurer last year and thought I get an RAC, Green Flag, AA, etc personal cover. Easy enough, but the small print is something like max 15 year cut off for the vehicle age. I just go with the provider/insurer for breakdoan cover now.

If you've changed the DME relay to a solid state one, I doubt its that. To honest after nearly 20 years of ownership I've carried around a spare DME and never required it. I don't think CHT sensor won't cause the problem you are experiencing so I'd leave that. I also reckon a faulty crank sensor would cause a total no start, rather than an random loss of power, but I could quite likely be wrong on that. The fault I had with the ECU caused a totally loss of power/engine off. Would coast to a stop and after a few moments rest it would start again, as if nothing had happened, would do this once every few months but became more frequent to the point of being a permanent fault/no start. Ivan, could it be a AFM track/arm problem?

Not sure what ClassicLine are playing at as I had all 3 of ours covered with them up until last year, like yourself for nearly 10 years. All of sudden totally uncompetitive. Now with Adrian Flux for the 911 and confused.com randoms for the 2 daily drivers.

Check or replace in the following order: All chassis grounds/earth points, DME relay, fuel pump, crank sensors, ECU. A few have similar issues, myself included. Ultimately for me it was cracked/dry solder joints in the ECU, luckily I had a spare ECU whilst the original was repaired.

When was the last time you drove it and put some miles on it? Sounds like lack of use and stale fuel.

At least 2 more years yet for mine. Nearly there.

Change the flexis, with a full fluid refresh. Then look at the callipers, I think turbo callipers are a little quirky on the rebuild side, so thoroughly look into the associated costs/parts before you start messing with them.

You might be able to see the date stamp on the flexis. Anything last century, get rid and anything pushing 20 years old is getting suspect. I'd start with the flexis before messing too much with the callipers. Yours being wide body/sport does it have the Turbo callipers or just the standard cast iron ATE jobbies?