Scumfrog

So am I right in understanding that instead of rebuilding the 152,000 mile engine, he had the intake modified to recover the lost BHP, bumping it up to 230? And the guide is 60-80,000. Otherwise, I quite like the look of those SCRS-alike bumpers.

You have a choice of chocolate or raisins or marmalade. 10 lev for a cake is nuts, I've had meals for less.

I'm sure that all premium tyres at this point are very good and I can't see N tyres being any better than others. The choice is whether you want sportiness or comfort or good wet performance or low wear. Most manufacturers seem to have settled on the parallel line tread for summer or the V patttern for winter. So I have suspicions as to why the 'classic' pattern died out.

They're not the N rated. Different tread I believe. The P Zero Rosso are supposed to be very good, are N rated, and 'only' £180 each.

I think that's the standard price. Are N rated tyres are any different to other tyres, apart from the N stamp? Anyway, someone has a set on ebay 250 the pair. Also the fronts to go with them. Second hand but not driven on.... 🤔

Adrian Flux £350 (massive increase from last year) Classic Line £290 with breakdown and European cover. Hiscox (via performance direct, via moneysupermarket) £208. I need to hammer out the deal tomorrow morning, cover seems pretty good, although excess is £800. Hiscox claim to only insure cars over 75K but I put in a value well below that. I do find that the value you give for the car affects the insurance premium quite a bit, all else being equal.

Coupes don't seem to come up that often at auction. I can't comment on SC's but the 3.2's that are at dealers seem to be around 60k ish for what is supposedly in reasonable condition. This one went for 57,250 with fees which looks a bit much from that rusty sill photo. I went to see one that was up on Collecting Cars recently, and I was the only person who went to see it out of about 200+ watchers, maybe 10 to 15 bidders. Cars usually look a lot better in photos than in real life and its easy to miss faults in a listing with 70 odd photos. Possibly nobody went to see this one.

Red sports cars are considered a bit of a cliché, but I believe it's called resale red in the trade for a reason. And a big %age are red because most people like a red sports car. I've seen a superb 80s coupe sit on the market for months at a relatively low price, and the only reason I can think of is that it was orange. I was told by a dealer that black was rare and desirable in an air cooled porsche, but I personally think they're quite dull looking. If I was having my guards red one painted, it would be shark blue, or similar, but I'd be afraid of knocking 10k off the value for not being in its original colour.

That the engine and gearbox weren't included didn't register this morning. Bit early for me... On a positive note, he's probably keen to sell.

Good value for a track car conversion? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204757673934?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PiZRJ8fvSQK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=DigH_QOISgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My point is that without seeing the car we can't make a judgement on whether it was good value or not. And we don't know if the buyer had seen the car either, as a lot of bidders are now online and don't see the car. It could have been good, and 'repairs to the kidney bowl area' suggests some degree of rust repair. But I find the statement somewhat vague, and doesn't necessarily mean that other areas of rust, which usually happen concurrently, were dealt with. I hope both seller and buyer got a fair price for the car.

Correction: My received advice was that all porsche fuel lines have been ethanol ready for decades, and I assumed all fuel lines from the 80s should have been changed by now, within that period.

My 'Driver's Manual' states a compression ratio of 9.5 :1 and a fuel requirement of 91 RON. Leaded should be avoided. Therefore, there is no need to spend more on so called premium 99 RON fuel. Although I have been suckered into this myth for the most part, having filled with the lower RON fuel when the higher wasn't available, I don't remember any knocking. Moreover, with alcohol levels so low, and advice from my Porsche mechanics that these cars have been ready for ethanol for many years if not decades, I don't see that much damage occurring from using any E number fuel. Although again, I generally go for E5. If I was doing 15,000 miles a year in ye olde Porsche, I would probably go for the cheaper fuel. So regarding the additive, it may be required for 60s & 70s cars, but at £50 / litre, a bit of an unnecessary expense if they've been converted to unleaded and have had new fuel lines / o rings fitted in the last 30 years. Especially as I've also seen some problems caused by additives that claim to preserve fuel containing ethanol when cars are laid up over winter.

40 years old, Targa, 100k miles. To me, no mention of rust means plenty of it. I can't see how it could be valued without seeing it.

Thinking of replacing my linen carpets with black. Do you recommend Lakewell for a good fit and OEM look & feel?

My 12 year old recently asked me, 'what's the point of Instagram?' I couldn't think of an answer.

"Up to" means exactly that. I saw a video a while back where someone took petrol samples from numerous pumps. It turned out most were about 2 - 4% whether E5 or E10. One E10 may have been 5% IIRC. He reckoned the more alcohol they put in, the more it costs them to make it.

A road test of a very early (the first?) 911 in German. Or neunhundertelf as it was back then.

Looks good, apart from the gloss painted seats. Unless there's an oil leak at the engine in which case it's probably got a broken head stud and it'll cost 10k++ to sort. Body should be good. But 100% rust free after 8 years? Well, maybe. I'd get it independently inspected at that price as you don't want to be spending a fortune on top, although you probably will be anyway.

A quick Google of G50 problems reveals a few people complaining about the 3rd gear synchromesh issue as far back as the early 2000's. They're also known for sudden unexpected failure, although no indication either is common.

Another oil change is certainly worth a try. However, I'm not sure what conclusions to draw from that thread, although Motul Gear 300 75w-90 seems to be highly regarded. (Or any other high viscosity 75 90.) If the Shell made an improvement, what issues were you having previously?

It'll be up on a ramp soon so we'll take a look at all that. I don't have a problem selecting gears, however.

It might make sense in urban / built up residential areas, but here in rural North Wales, in some places there are 20 mph limits on what are effectively country roads and it's ridiculous. In other places the speed limit is up and down like a yo-yo, 30 20 30 60 20 40 20...

Thanks for taking the time to comment and make suggestions. I took it out for a spin today for a reappraisal. What I can say is that the clutch works correctly. There is absolutely no drag when stationary in gear. There is the right amount of pedal movement before the clutch engages. The problem does not occur when stationary, engine on or off, it goes into gear fine. And I have plenty of experiences of clutches not working properly, it's nothing like that. It's 100% not the oil. It was changed to try to overcome the problem. Possibly some slight improvement. The issue occurs sometimes when shifting mainly into 3rd and sometimes 4th. I would say over 30 mph. So, you're shifting into gear, it goes in part of the way, there's a bit of resistance, all normal so far. At this point it either goes into gear absolutely fine or will feel like a crash box. (Nowhere near as severe admittedly, and it rarely happens, but it can). Or it can be anywhere between those two extremes. Change gear slowly, it doesn't happen. Likewise blipping the throttle seems to work, maybe. To my mind this corresponds with the synchro not doing its job as well as a new one. Perhaps I'm being a bit too critical as it's not really that bad, and maybe a rebuild would be over the top at this point. But a fast change into 3rd can feel pretty rough at times. It never grinds, but you can feel that the gears haven't meshed correctly.

Clutch is fairly new too, not sure about the mechanism. Maybe I'll take it elsewhere for a second opinion, as I'm not 100% convinced either.