AirCooledExcellence Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Hi All, Paid a visit to Berny's this morning to pick up my front bumper & valance (I'm painting these myself). While I was there I took a couple of pics of my poor little car Nearside Inner Wing, this has some surface corrosion along the top edge, nothing serious, will be ground down and treated/painted: Offside Kidney, old one cut out and new one tacked in place: Front bulkhead nice and clean, no problems at all: Hey! Looks like I'm missing a horn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Twinzig Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Sounds like a cue for a song Ace Hi All, Paid a visit to Berny's this morning to pick up my front bumper & valance (I'm painting these myself). While I was there I took a couple of pics of my poor little car Hey! Looks like I'm missing a horn! Why bother, JG will do it for fifty quid and if you're really lucky it'll match (or at least weather down) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Sounds like a cue for a song Ace Why bother, JG will do it for fifty quid and if you're really lucky it'll match (or at least weather down) Póg mo thóin Twin, the front of my car is perfect now and for less than half the price of your so-called 'mates rates'. Ever hear the story about one being born every minute? See any match problems in the pic below? Nice work Ace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Paid a visit to Berny's this morning to pick up my front bumper & valance (I'm painting these myself). Is your front room going to be big enough for this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Is your front room going to be big enough for this job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 Right, I've had enough of all this abuse, I'm outta here! Goodbye forever..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Right, I've had enough of all this abuse, I'm outta here!Goodbye forever..... Forever lasts more than 10 minutes mate You did invite the abuse through your actions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Twinzig Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Póg mo thóin Twin, the front of my car is perfect now and for less than half the price of your so-called 'mates rates'. Ever hear the story about one being born every minute? See any match problems in the pic below? Nice....John C has clearly taught you a lot about the use of creative lighting JG, hides a multitude of sins eh! Okay okay it looks good. well done Boss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter915 Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Why was the door shut panel butchered? The whole panel comes out neatly - undo the spot welds and bang it out. Put the new one back in - spot weld, done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 18, 2006 Author Share Posted November 18, 2006 Not sure why he's done it like that, he has a new panel to go in, perhaps he just cut into it to see what was going on in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Not sure why he's done it like that, he has a new panel to go in, perhaps he just cut into it to see what was going on in there? He has drilled out the welds on the inside and will obviously cut out the flat piece of the repair panel, thus avoiding having to match compound curves on the outside of the b post and preserving the original fit of the rear quarters with that recess inside the return. He has done it the right way IMO and will look untouched when he is done, as he can paint up to the rear quarter join and not touch the paint on the exterior body. I would do it like he has done it too, as long as there is no rot high up under the window. Starting the way Berny has means he is not making more work for himself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatsix777 Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 The whole panel comes out neatly - undo the spot welds and bang it out. Put the new one back in - spot weld, done. If I only needed to remove half the shut panel to gain access then that's all I'd take out as it simplifies the task. I would remove the whole section by drilling out the spot welds as Peter suggests but I'd do it in two stages. First I'd detach the inner side and then I'd cut the panel as close to the quarter seam as I could get. With top and bottom cuts the metal comes out - pretty much as has been done. Then I'd drill out the quarter panel spot welds and, with the access created, neatly cut just the shut panel beneath the quarter panel seam at top and bottom using a body saw. This way there is no distortion to the quarter panel seam and you can use a cut off tool to sever any areas of weld remaining, which there inevitably are unless you are lucky enough to precisely centre the bit on each weld every time. He may therefore intend doing what Peter suggests, albeit only removing half the shut panel. It seems a sensible approach IMHO & there is no need to be concerned in any way. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Twinzig Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 He has drilled out the welds on the inside and will obviously cut out the flat piece of the repair panel, thus avoiding having to match compound curves on the outside of the b post and preserving the original fit of the rear quarters with that recess inside the return. He has done it the right way IMO and will look untouched when he is done, as he can paint up to the rear quarter join and not touch the paint on the exterior body. I would do it like he has done it too, as long as there is no rot high up under the window. Starting the way Berny has means he is not making more work for himself. Without sounding like an arrrr5e licker, both the guys that have seen mine have quoted for doing it this way and letting in a repair without taking the whole panel out. I didn't question it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Without sounding like an ar5e licker, both the guys that have seen mine have quoted for doing it this way and letting in a repair without taking the whole panel out. I didn't question it. It's far and away the easiest way unless you need to cut the lower leading edge of the quarter off too, which is how Tuthills do it when the sill-to-quarter join goes. Note he has also left the join where the slam meets the sill top in situ also, should look totally factory when done. Ultimate way to do it would be take the lot off, like Tanks car. Multiply bill by 5 using that method with new panels and full paint like the main man had Tuthills three-way brace the doors if they have to cut anything in that area though - any cutting anywhere and they brace the doors. If they take the wings off they brace the flitches too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter915 Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 I like the idea of bracing the door.. makes real good sense. Still a bit miffed why the above has been done as such, when the replacement slam panel is a complete panel see image: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Some more updates. Last weekend I flatted down and painted my front bumper / valance & the little panels that screw onto the bellows. Some pics: Bumper flatted off ready for paint: Bumper in primer: I've just finished colour sanding (800/1200/2000 grit) & polishing them (Farecla & Zymol), here's how the bumper turned out: I'm pretty pleased with the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engleflick Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Looks great Makes me want to do mine!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topcarrera Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Good Job Tim! Forgive me for my sarcastic comments in an earlier thread! When do you hope to have car back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 Nice work Ace, where did you get the paint, and what primer are you using on the bare ally? I went with a pro to paint mine as was fairly cheap and they could bake the finish; couldn't get the bumper in my oven at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Forgive me for my sarcastic comments in an earlier thread! Hmmm, oh, go on then, it'll cost you some pax laps tomorrow though When do you hope to have car back? No sure really, I reckon it's going to be another couple of weeks yet. I'm in no real rush, as long as it's back before xmas (so I can do my suspension instead of spending time with the family ) Nice work Ace, where did you get the paint, and what primer are you using on the bare ally? Thanks mate, I used a high build etch primer on the bare alloy bits. I got the paint in rattle cans mixed up by my local auto paint shop. Used about 6 400ml cans for the bumper & valance. Cost of whole job came to about £50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 I've just been to visit my car (unfortunately I forgot my camera!). Berny's doing a great job! Both the kidneys & b-posts are done. The inner wing has cleaned up a treat as well. The replacement wing is being prepped at the moment. hopefully he'll be able to start shooting some paint next week and ready for me to pick up the week after He fired her up and we listened to the the new exhaust system (H&S pipes, M&K silencer). It sounds awesome!! Nice deep burble whilst at idle, lovely loud wail when you hit the gas, perfect, just what I was hoping for! One bit of bad news though, the clutch cable bracket that holds the cable to the underside of the transmission has broke off! Apparently he was just selecting a gear and it gave way, must have been fatigued! Should only be a few quid to replace (hopefully!), I've got Tripe on the case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engleflick Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Berny's doing a great job! Both the kidneys & b-posts are done. Can I ask how much you are having to pay for this as I need to get this done in the not to distant future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 It's a bit difficult to say at the moment, he quoted £2K for the whole job but it's changed a bit since then, I've done the bumpers & valance, and he's putting a wing on. I would say kidneys and b-posts are around £750 a side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndglynn Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 I would say kidneys and b-posts are around £750 a side. In the condition yours were in that is - it can vary according to what you need done. Yours weren't that bad really were they Ace, seen worse. Plus the VAT obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirCooledExcellence Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Good point, mine were not that bad, plenty of good metal surrounding them to weld the new ones on to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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