OzSC

Yes I think distance is 30 m from track. FYI regulations require that Engine is standard 205 hp 3 litre with minimal mods to rest of car. It's all about the driver, which is problem for me!

Thanks Richard. To clarify, I run in a 'production' class where I am limited in extremity of modifications and need to live within a noise limit. So really I'm just wondering if there is any real performance differences between mufflers that can bolt onto SSIs. Cheers

Hi All I need to replace my M&K muffler on my track SC fitted with SSIs. Various folks are claiming some 'sport' mufflers offer superior power or torque compared to others but I can't find any actual data to back such claims. Does anyone here know of such comparisons based upon real Dyno data? I suspect there is not much to separate top-end free flowing units in terms of performance. Grateful for any feedback. BTW while sound is nice, performance is the ultimate arbiter for me and I do need to worry about 75 dB limit at some tracks. Thinking about a Scart or Cargraphic but perhaps less expensive options are just as good? Ćheers

Just to clarify. It's not really gals that are filled it is areas over joins in panels. Like around the the panel that holds the latch at the front of the arch (below the B pillar) and that acute angle between the rear wing and engine compartment above the oil tank. Thanks Chis. (I only noticed your post after I posted this clarification)

Hi All In my 79 SC rear wheel arches some of the gaps between panels are filled or with a filler. In some places the filler is crumbling and I need to repair. The filler does not feel as hard as regular epoxy so I'm wondering if anyone knows what it is or if normal epoxy filler will do the trick. Perhaps this stuff needs more flexibility than epoxy to accommodate panel movement? Thanks Ian

Thanks for your replies. I presume my thermostat is opening because the sill and front cooler get hot. Can the thermostat open a bit but not fully resulting in suboptimal flow? Haven't checked gauge but crossed my mind. How does one check it? Temps on normal road driving look OK, 180-210.

My 79 SC suffers from high oil temp on warm days at the track eg today 26 C (78 F) temp hits 250 after 4 hot laps (6 min). To address this problem I replaced my trombone with a late Carrera front oil cooler. Has had less impact than I had hoped. Engine is more or less otherwise stock standard. I'd love to hear if others have had similar experiences and what they found worked to solve it. Options seem to be 1. notch bumper to give more air flow. I did not do this initially because there is a decent gap between the front bumper and the valance so I hoped that would allow enough air-flow. 2. Fit a fan. I didn't fit fan because I thought it would only be helpful at low speeds and may block airflow at high speeds. 3. Install JM product design air scoop. reviews have been mixed but may be helpful at high speeds. 4. Seal around radiator to force air through it. Cheers

Looking great Simon. I like the look of the D-Zug grille and was thinking of buying one. I see that it is a bit wide though as you comment. Does it spoil the look 'in the flesh'. Do you think the ill fitting is due to anything to do with your engine lid (ie because your lid has a smaller opening than usual) or the grille is just to big or,just due to normal variation.

You may wish to read this http://www.tunersgroup.com/TunerWire_Live/synchro_myth.html. In any case, its not unheard of to have a 915 box rebuilt on a 1-2 year basis in a race car. They're fragile beasts. I would guess that on the track, good technique, including heel toe downshifts, is essential no matter what shifter is fitted to prolong 915 life. Another thing about Wevo shifter is that in my opinion they greatly reduce the chances of a valve bouncing mis-shift. Cheers Ian

Just occurred to me that Mean in Green probably meant Olsen was owner of the car not Pelican...

Just a correction, Wayne Dempsey owns Pelican. Jack Olsen is actually an author according to the PH video ( i dont know what he writes and there is a more famous jack olsen journo/author who is dead) This Olsen actually inspired me to do this with my car.

You really don't like Bilsteins do you. More please when you have time. All motoring sites must have a thread on suspension set up running at all times!

Isn't there grounds for legal redress if the fault can be shown to be due to service providers substandard work? I know, the problem is proving it, but that could be possible in some circumstances. Also depends on how much the cost is and if its worth the effort.

It is worth some trepidation that I post this as I'm no expert, just an enthusiastic club racer who's only experience with suspension set up is to change tyre pressures. But I would like to get this issue clarified out of interest. Dominic's quote above could be interpreted to mean that tyre grip can be increased by adjusting dampers to change weight distribution under braking (and acceleration). ie if you decrease front bump, car dives more under braking putting more load on the front wheels and hence increasing front wheel grip. Some of you may have read the "Going Faster!" written by Carl Lopez of the Skip Barber Racing School, an excellent primer to motor racing technique. In that book it states "Contrary to popular belief, you can't change the amount of load transferred by adjusting shocks, springs anti-rollbars, or by varying anti-dive or anti-squat geometry." It then goes onto describe the physics of a racing car indicating that load under acceleration or deceleration is a function of centre of gravity, length of wheel base and rate of acceleration or deceleration. The book later states that dampers do not alter the amount of load but rather "the speed with which the load gets to the contact patch". Considering this, it still seems to me that the speed at which load is transferred is still critical. The quicker the load transfer, the quicker the change in grip is realised and that could alter turn in or rear grip. Operationally, this would act like more load but is really just the same load applied more quickly. My guess is that this is what Dom really meant but simply didn't have time to go into details. Or my interpretation is wrong. Cheers Ian

It's incredible how primitive things were back then. Guys sitting on upturned tool boxes with padding taped to them, awkwardly leaning over things they are working on, smoking on the production line, etc. Still made some pretty decent kit though but it must have been a slow process. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks very much, just what I wanted! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks for the tips lexz32 and Alan. Ian

Perhaps I am becoming accustomed to the high price for Porsche bits but anything less than $100 for a sizable peice of kit feels like a bargain. After all I just paid $80 for a window switch! You could always pay $278 for a reproduction blower cover from Pelican (crazy).Cheers Ian

Rennline make this. http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Blower-Motor-Assembly-Cover-RHD-Porsche/productinfo/I06+RH/http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Blower-Motor-Assembly-Cover-RHD-Porsche/productinfo/I06+RH/ I have one but not installed. Looks nice. Needs brackets from OEM cover though

Thanks. "experimental PTC heater"... I'm intrigued. Did the experiment work?

Hi Jonny. I'd been wondering about fan replacements. When you say you fitted a pair, can you let us know where you fitted them etc. Cheers Ian Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

When I bought my SC it had JE pistons in Mahle barrels. Dyno'ed exactly as if original Mahle pistons were fitted. However, eventually I blew a ring and scored the barrel and wrote off the piston. It's a track car and these things happen and I have no evidence it was due to particular properties of the je pistons. I replaced with new Mahle pistons and barrels anyway. If I could have got a matching JE piston to replace the old one, which is possible with later model JEs I understand, I may have coated the barrels and kept the JEs, as the savings would have been substantial.

Hi Michael Down here people (not me unfortunately) are doing some phenomenal times on A050s. They have taken over from Dunlop 03Gs as the tyre du jour. No one runs Toyos. Cheers Ian

My 15 min of fame.

All you wanted to know about carrying tyres on a roof rack http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-aut...no-trailer.html I just lash my tyres to a Thule roof rack. Generally put one in the boot and one on the front seat next to me and two on the roof just because its easier than 4 on the roof. Ian