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Recommendations for 915 Gearbox Rebuild


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The time has come for the gearbox rebuild, (83'SC)

i have had 18 months of fun on what i class as 'borrowed time',

I knew all the syncro's were worn when i got it but it worked fine if driven in a normal manner, only showing its age/mileage when used 'enthusiastically'.

 

Last night it became impossible to select 2nd gear, even with the engine not running, so its time to get it fully overhauled, however choosing someone to do the work is provin difficult than it expected, initially i considered JZ Machtech who appear to have a good reputation, but so do all the big names, Autofarm/Tuthills, there will be happy and unhappy customers for all of these establishments but i must say i really not sure where to go.

I was also recommended a local chap in Beckenham who has run his own specialist place for a many years.

Being local it would seem a good idea, but i wonder if to stick with a more well known place, but i like the idea of supporting the small independant's, obviously as i live in the South someone reasonably local say 1.5 hrs drive away would be ideal.

Cost will obviously be dictated by what needs doing to the box.

So, can anyone here advise on what they had done, where, when, how much and were you happy with the work/service/cost, and any problems afterwards?

i will be removing/delivering the gearbox and refitting myself to fit in with some other 'to do' jobs i have lined up.

any info much appreciated thanks in advance.

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Not really your neck of the woods but MB Engineering (Mike Bainbridge) in Kendall has a very good reputation, although I've not had any work done there personally I have met Mike and is a very friendly, good chap.

 

If you are removing the box yourself the cost involved shipping to Mike would be minimal compared to the piece of mind.

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The time has come for the gearbox rebuild, (83'SC)

So, can anyone here advise on what they had done, where, when, how much and were you happy with the work/service/cost, and any problems afterwards?

i will be removing/delivering the gearbox and refitting myself to fit in with some other 'to do' jobs i have lined up.

any info much appreciated thanks in advance.

I would personally recommend JAZ in Wembley, North London. As the owner Steve Winter said himself - 'I've rebuilt more 915 boxes than you've had hot dinners' ;) Other people on here speak highly of him and I believe RB's car is a regular visitor to JAZ.

 

I had JAZ rebuild the 915 on my '82 SC at the end of 2005. It included new syncros on 1st and 2nd, shifting sleeves on 1st to 4th, dog rings on 3rd and 4th and a new 5th gear set. It also needed a new flywheel (damaged whilst driving the car up there with virtually no clutch :blush:) A new clutch, clutch cable, and associated linkage were also fitted. The rear main oil seal was also replaced since it was leaking.

 

Total bill for all of the above was £2200, but as stated that included a new clutch, linkage and flywheel. Your bill will obviously be less if you are removing and refitting the box. Very pleased with the results, a transformation compared to the reluctant 1st/2nd shift I had before. Clutch was so much lighter after the new cable and other linkage as well.

 

Unreserved recommendation :)

 

Cheers - Gary

Edited by GaryH
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Not really your neck of the woods but MB Engineering (Mike Bainbridge) in Kendall has a very good reputation, although I've not had any work done there personally I have met Mike and is a very friendly, good chap.

 

If you are removing the box yourself the cost involved shipping to Mike would be minimal compared to the piece of mind.

 

+1 on Mke being extremely friendly, helpful, knowledgable. He's very happy to talk on the phone. Cumbria's not even that far, even with the UK filters in place.

 

If you want a stock rebuild, most decent places can run through a 915 before lunch and replace the usual wear items. I think 900 quid is the going rate for that, plus parts dahn sarf.

 

(Have you ever seen someone who knows what they're doing strip a 915? I was shocked how fast they come apart on the stand, completely gob-smacked. MB says a reasonable time to remove motor/gearbox from a race car, split 915 and fit different gearsets, re-assemble and re-fit into car is an hour or so... Errr. It'd take me a week, I'm sure...)

 

When I asked Ray Northway if he could fit my WEVO billet side-cover when going through the 915, his response was "you need to set up the diff bearing pre-load. I haven't done that in 20 years, and I don't have the special tools anymore". Kudos to Ray for straight-talking as ever.

 

If you want anything out of the ordinary or that requires specialist tools - LSD, beefed up, spray bar kit, fancy ratios, Mike is very good - and has a fairly wide selection of second-hand parts to hand.

 

He builds boxes for people who cane 'em hard (sprint, hillclimb, rally), he works 6-7 days a week, his labour rates are very reasonable indeed - and especially so for the expertise/knowledge you're getting. You'll probably save more than the petrol costs you. Oh, and if you cast off unwanted parts (I jettisoned a mag-case 70's 915), he'll take it against labour, if he can use it.

 

Oh, he does motor rebuilds too, and I'm sure more besides.

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Just to reiterate what spuggy says, I spent a day at Mike's workshop on a DDK Educational Day, I came away without a doubt if I ever need a gearbox or engine rebuild I'd be travelling to Kendal to spend my money.

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John's suggestion sounds like a good starting point.

 

If that is not the source of your problem you could also do the work yourself. It is not that difficult. I rebuilt my transmission some years ago. IRC the parts were about £800 including two ridiculously expensive axial bearings. The rebuild included

  • Dog teeth ring for 1st
  • Sync sleeves 1/2 and 3/4
  • Sync rings 1 - 5
  • Gasket kit
  • Locking nuts for input and output shaft
  • Axial bearings for input and output shaft

The dog teeth ring was removed with a special tool, and an oven capable of heating some of the parts to 150 deg C helped the assembly of the shafts a lot.

 

I also tuned the transmission a little. The parts were bought at the local Porsche specialist and they gave me a Porsche published tweak recommendation. It mainly consisted of filing off some edges on the break bands that are inside the sync rings. According to Porsche that should reduce the problem with the transmission sticking in gear.

 

/Peter

Edited by Peter Bull
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Thanks for the replies, M.B engineering were very helpful when i was asking a few questions regarding the fuel pressure/idling problem i had earlier in year,

i have checked all linkages etc outside the box and all is good, its internal and to be honest its not worth messing with , all syncro's worn it really needs looking at, not much point in putting it off, its got to be rebuilt.

im thinking about the engine to, while its dismantled, the unit has done 252.000 km and as far as ive been able to find out from the Swiss history its the original engine, on orig mechanical tensioners, while it still has plenty of poke i would rather preventative maintenance than a rod through the case..

 

I have just read Tripe's account of his new purchase, and to some extent the reason for buying my SC was similar, i want to do some track days and want to make improvments to the car but keep it as my daily driver which can carry wife kids shopping etc, but at present there is no was i could put it on a rolling road or round a track with the miles it has on it at present so im kind of glad in a way the box needs attention as its now made me make positive plans for improvement.

 

I have 3 choise's as far as i can see,

1) Stock 3.0L rebuild for reliability.(cheapest)

2)Rebuild as 3.0L but investigate the fitting of a supercharger (reliability?)

3)Go the 993 3.6L route, (second hand engine and hate electrical ecu boxes that would be involved)

 

pound for pound the 3.6 is the way to go, compared with tuning the 3.0/3.2 engine, but i want to keep away from ecu's and all the new modern electrical boxes you get in new cars.

The supercharger idea is one i've been harbouring for some time since i read about a 964 that was converted some time ago in 911 world magazine, i no longer have the article but if i recall it was mostly a mechanical device which to be honest suits me, im no lover of electrical stuff on cars, give me wind up windows anyday.

I have some research to do, i recall reading a couple of people on here had 3.6L engines fitted does anybody have any idea who, i would be most interested to find out their views and if they have had any difficulties with the conversion , and a list of parts would be cheeky i suppose but something has to happen in my engine bay, i just have to decide what..

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i would be most interested to find out their views and if they have had any difficulties with the conversion , and a list of parts would be cheeky i suppose but something has to happen in my engine bay, i just have to decide what..

 

zip_mouth.jpg

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Thanks for the replies, M.B engineering were very helpful when i was asking a few questions regarding the fuel pressure/idling problem i had earlier in year,

i have checked all linkages etc outside the box and all is good, its internal and to be honest its not worth messing with , all syncro's worn it really needs looking at, not much point in putting it off, its got to be rebuilt.

im thinking about the engine to, while its dismantled, the unit has done 252.000 km and as far as ive been able to find out from the Swiss history its the original engine, on orig mechanical tensioners, while it still has plenty of poke i would rather preventative maintenance than a rod through the case..

 

I have just read Tripe's account of his new purchase, and to some extent the reason for buying my SC was similar, i want to do some track days and want to make improvments to the car but keep it as my daily driver which can carry wife kids shopping etc, but at present there is no was i could put it on a rolling road or round a track with the miles it has on it at present so im kind of glad in a way the box needs attention as its now made me make positive plans for improvement.

 

I have 3 choise's as far as i can see,

1) Stock 3.0L rebuild for reliability.(cheapest)

2)Rebuild as 3.0L but investigate the fitting of a supercharger (reliability?)

3)Go the 993 3.6L route, (second hand engine and hate electrical ecu boxes that would be involved)

 

pound for pound the 3.6 is the way to go, compared with tuning the 3.0/3.2 engine, but i want to keep away from ecu's and all the new modern electrical boxes you get in new cars.

The supercharger idea is one i've been harbouring for some time since i read about a 964 that was converted some time ago in 911 world magazine, i no longer have the article but if i recall it was mostly a mechanical device which to be honest suits me, im no lover of electrical stuff on cars, give me wind up windows anyday.

I have some research to do, i recall reading a couple of people on here had 3.6L engines fitted does anybody have any idea who, i would be most interested to find out their views and if they have had any difficulties with the conversion , and a list of parts would be cheeky i suppose but something has to happen in my engine bay, i just have to decide what..

 

Hi i am new to this forum. but i did the 993 conversion on a late 2.7s had to get the 993 rs fly wheel and have the diameter reduced for the 915 belhousing ,and also a small amount from the bolt face ,used the 3.2 clutch . also needed the oil pipe that suplies oil into the engine, its a small steel pipe that pushes in and held with a clamp, there are two, types , either will do, as i had to chop the end off and join to a steel straight pipe to go on to my existing oil pipe from the tank. reused all my exhaust system, the studs on the 993 heads screw out and refitt in the spare holes for correct offset for the other system, so no bodging here, had to make a plate to cover where the pas pump fitts as it wasnt required, and also a differant pipe conection for the heat exchangers to connect to the blower motor . the wiring is straight forward old school wiring nothing scarey there, fitted the 993 ecu and fuel relay under the seat, my only problem is trying to get hold of the diagnostic plug, to connect to the ecu, so i can have it tested if a fault occures, but it has been fitted for 3 years now and no bother, p.s the fly wheel bolts you need are for the 3.2 carrera not the rs ones as i was told, because the flywheel is a little thinner now, colin belton from 9meister does do these conversions, but aint cheap. so i did mine myself, pish easy, if your a spanner

hope this helps . easy bhp,

Edited by Mark
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Hi i am new to this forum. but i did the 993 conversion on a late 2.7s had to get the 993 rs fly wheel and have the diameter reduced for the 915 belhousing ,and also a small amount from the bolt face ,used the 3.2 clutch . also needed the oil pipe that suplies oil into the engine, its a small steel pipe that pushes in and held with a clamp, there are two, types , either will do, as i had to chop the end off and join to a steel straight pipe to go on to my existing oil pipe from the tank. reused all my exhaust system, the studs on the 993 heads screw out and refitt in the spare holes for correct offset for the other system, so no bodging here, had to make a plate to cover where the pas pump fitts as it wasnt required, and also a differant pipe conection for the heat exchangers to connect to the blower motor . the wiring is straight forward old school wiring nothing scarey there, fitted the 993 ecu and fuel relay under the seat, my only problem is trying to get hold of the diagnostic plug, to connect to the ecu, so i can have it tested if a fault occures, but it has been fitted for 3 years now and no bother, p.s the fly wheel bolts you need are for the 3.2 carrera not the rs ones as i was told, because the flywheel is a little thinner now, colin belton from 9meister does do these conversions, but aint cheap. so i did mine myself, pish easy, if your a spanner

hope this helps . easy bhp,

 

Hi Mark

 

Thanks for the info - good to see another DIY 3.6er :ani_clapping:

 

I think Anconablue72 (chris) is quite keen on the idea, he just needs a bit more egging on.

 

Be great to see some pics of your car and the conversion

 

Cheers, jev

 

 

 

hahahahahahahahahaha! Not when i sit down with a fresh cup of tea Jevvy!

 

He's asking for it, he's really asked for it..... :D

 

 

Sorry Spuggy, didnt see you there - I'll get the 3.6 drum out again soon dont you worry :whistling:

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Hi i am new to this forum. but i did the 993 conversion on a late 2.7s

 

Pictures!!! This statement is useless without pictures! :D

 

I like the early cars. Nothing wrong with them that another 100+ BHP won't sort out very nicely...

 

my only problem is trying to get hold of the diagnostic plug, to connect to the ecu, so i can have it tested if a fault occures, but it has been fitted for 3 years now and no bother,

 

Dont quite understand, are you after the hammer, or the counterpart of the plug that fits into the DME so you can wire some diag tool in there?

 

I have some PDF's of Bosch part #'s if they'd help. They're also on a thread in the electrical section on here, IIRC.

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pound for pound the 3.6 is the way to go, compared with tuning the 3.0/3.2 engine, but i want to keep away from ecu's and all the new modern electrical boxes you get in new cars.

 

Then fit a 930 lump, they used CIS, very little in the way of those pesky electrics to deal with.

 

I know of one for sale on Pelican and I have all the stock take-off parts it's missing, because I bought all the go-faster goodies it had and fitted them to mine...

 

300 BHP may not sound like much, but the 930 is a torque monster and I can assure you it feels insane in a light car.

 

Either way, you should consider a different gearbox with that sort of power; the SC box is not the strongest 915 out there - the later the better.

 

I obtained a late model alu-cased replacement for my mag-cased 915, because it had been very unhappy. Mr. Bainbridge fitted the WEVO bearing retainer, an internal spray bar kit, fitted an LSD and toyed with the ratios to suit the power better. Shifting the new box is a revelation, the gate is really tight now... If I'd had more time/money, I'd have used the WEVO diff and intermediate cases too.

 

Oh. SC? Budget for stiffer torsion bars and 3.2 brakes too, and be aware the latter may well turn out to be made of chocolate for track use.

Edited by spuggy
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