MaxDiesel
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I wouldn't proceed with the build until you understand the cause of the tightness. I'd want to be able to turn the belt pulley by hand when torqued. I'd start by removing the crank and shells and making 100% sure that there isn't even the slightest bit of dirt or debris behind one of the main shells. It wouldn't take a lot to make one journal tight. There'll be a witness mark where any debris has been compressed between the shell and case. Both surfaces need to be clinically clean before fitting the shells. Are the bearing shells from one of the quality German manufacturers ? Could they have been dropped or damaged prior to fitting ? If it's not the shells, then its got to be either the case or the crank. Has this crank and case combo run as a set before ?? How was the crank transported back from the machine shop ?
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I've also repaired mine. From recollection it was the coil of one of the internal relays that had failed. I couldn't find a relay of the same size so I soldered on four wires, brought these out the top of the housing and connected a cheap 12v relay.
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Just messaged you. Let me know what set up you have and I'll see if I can help. I'm running MAF based inlet with my Canems unit, so my main maps are quite specific to this configuration.
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I put these tiles down in my garage and workshop in 2017, all good still after plenty of jacking, spills etc. In recent years I've also used my scissor lift on them without any issues. One thing to watch out for it when you park a lowered 911 with a hot engine the tiles underneath expand and rise up in a hump directly below - I just leave a piece of hardboard under as a precaution. I went for the embossed tiles. https://www.paftektiles.com/
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A quick heads up on something to watch out for with Adrian Flux; I submitted all my info for the agreed a values on both cars last week and then yesterday spotted 2 x £18 "mid term adjustment" charges are due. The policy doesn't even start until tomorrow! I just called them and apparently this is their standard fee for an putting an agreed value in place. There was no mention of this during the quotation process and I've since found it listed on page 5 of their welcome pack. Not good. I told them I as the policy didn't start until tomorrow so I could still renew with FJ and cancel them.... at which point they waived the mid term adjustment fee.
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Yes - £63.5k for the Carrera and £28.5k for the 914.
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I've been with Footman James for a few years with my 911 and 914, both agreed value. My FJ renewal came through at £544 this year, an increase of around a hundred versus last year. Adrian Flux quoted me £321 based on the same agreed values, mileage etc. so I've gone with them this time. I've just got to do all the admin on agreed value info submissions again. Adrian Flux were easy to deal with just a bit pushy on all the extras they try to sell you (spares insurance, key insurance, breakdown cover etc.).
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I just seen it's been two years since I last updated this thread! Progress has been slow but steady on my 914 with work getting in the way far too often. The car is finally back on four wheels five years after it last was. There's still a long way to go yet but I'm hoping to get it back on the road in 2025. I'm now starting to gather the parts for the engine rebuild... which is the bit I've been looking forward to for quite a while! So, another photo heavy update below: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
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Yes ! Ironically I just found it whilst trying to find my own original ECU. Would you like me to send it back ? I may as well post both at the same time 🙂
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Ant, I've got my original ECU somewhere in my garage loft. I modified it for quick change of Eeproms but it was definitely a good running ECU. If you don't have any luck with checking speed sensor gaps then I can dig this out and post it to you. One other thought; have you got the remnants of any 80's alarms in your car ? I had a similar issue to you and it turned out to be an intermittent issue with the immobiliser relay - this had been cut into the fuel pump circuit close to the DME relay. Mine decided to no-start part way through an MOT 😩 Matt
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Great work - I do hope that's solved the issue for you. The large transistor joints you re-soldered are the ones that fail most often. Some of the failures I've seen required a microscope to see the cracks in the solder.
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Did you remove the lower circuit board and check for cracked solder joints ? They typically fail underneath the ignition transistor bracket due to vibration: Not always easy to spot either: I've seen several that have failed here and resulted in either intermittent running issues or complete non-runners
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The Cylinder head temp sensor could be causing the symptoms you're getting. It's the main temperature input that the ECU uses for mixture control during warm up etc. So if the resistance profile is out you could be excessively rich/lean at times. There are some resistance check values in the Bentley manual - cold and warm engine. I'd recommend checking these are in spec. As others have said switching to a 2 wire CHT is a good thing regardless, and replace the speed and reference sensors whilst you're there. As mentioned further up - cracked solder joints in the ECU could potentially cause these intermittent symptoms, either cracks in the injector driver or ignition circuits. Best way to rule this out is to borrow a known good ECU for a quick test.
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That's what I did last summer, but the other way around. We stopped in Grindelwald for a few days then drove Grimsel and Furka passes on our way to Como. Both passes were stunning drives. You are a dependent on the weather though. We drove the Great St Bernard pass on our way back a few days later and couldn't see a thing!
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NO WORDS!! Just YOUR Impact Bumper pics. Use the like button 👍🏻
MaxDiesel replied to Ducktail's topic in Impact Driver Chat
