MaxDiesel

That's what I did last summer, but the other way around. We stopped in Grindelwald for a few days then drove Grimsel and Furka passes on our way to Como. Both passes were stunning drives. You are a dependent on the weather though. We drove the Great St Bernard pass on our way back a few days later and couldn't see a thing!

Looks great ! It takes a lot of work to get back to clean bare metal like that, but it's worth it for peace or mind 👍

Thanks ! It was your Whistling Kettle update that inspired me to update my old thread 😉 Looks like you're on the home run too now 👍

Thanks. You're right on the rear quarter..... just getting it all aligned so the door gaps were good etc took over a day. Then the welding another day. I made up some profile templates from the good wing on the other side and used these to keep it all in shape as I welded single tack at a time !! It was a shame the donor wing had been damaged on it's top edge, otherwise it would have been far easier to change the whole wing!

Heading in for epoxy primer: Forward progress at last:

Back from blasting... and finally off for paint 😀 It's only taken four years ! I wish.... based on rate of progress so far I'm shooting for 2024 and that's a home run plan!!

Transport dolly.... and shell off for blasting:

Chassis strengthening kit from the US - as per Jonny's 914

The next surprise was a badly damaged and badly repaired rear wing.... I ended up buying the back end of another 914 to get a good rear wing repair section!

Rear boot floor repair:

After two years... I thought it might be time to update my 914 thread ! It's finally making some real progress, but not before a lot more work than I'd originally anticipated 🤦‍♂️ Below is the rear floor plan replacement

If you're planning to zinc passivate any critical fasteners like the crankcase studs then you're likely to need to hydrogen de-embrittle them otherwise their strength may be compromised. Best talk to the platers on this.

Hi Ian, It is possible to run a hot wire MAF (e.g. Bosch HFM5) directly with the Canems ECU - that's what I have on my car. Details here: It requires a loom adapter, plus an adapter to fit the MAF in the intake. I've still got my old Bosch VFM (flap type), which I know is in good working order - if you want to rule out the VFM then you could try this, Matt.

I went through a similar quandary on rod bolt torques when I did my first 3.2 rebuild. I probably did overthink it, but you may find the info in my thread below useful:

Nickname given to me by Andy Green (land speed record holder) when I was out in Bonneville with him working on a Diesel Land speed record project in 2005/6. I bought my 911 just after so it seemed appropriate to use it.... Not so sure now given all the bad press diesels have been getting!

Great - I’ll take it ! Paypal or bank transfer?

Hi Shirish - is this still available?

Very nice - I'm still some way off paint. I did give mine a wash today though! Wire brushing the underside back to bare metal starts tomorrow...

I think I’d try to identify the root cause before changing to a different setup with the Canems EMS - this may just make it harder to work out what’s going on. I may be able to help - I’ve got a spare early 24pin ECU here and a spare AFM that I know’s good too. If you can get over to mine (once lockdown permits..) you’d be welcome to see if either of these solve it. I’ve also got a portable lambda kit that we can use to check your idle mixture with. Have you check your cylinder head temp sensor resistance versus temp - is it one of the later two wire ones?

Cheers 👍 They’re all blue now too 🤓 Its been interesting to see how much the chassis flexes on the rotisserie. With a single door brace each side the gap between windscreen frame and targa hoop decreased by 1mm when I put the car on the jig. When I rotated the car upside down the same gap increased by nearly 1.5mm, so around 2.5mm total flex. With the long diagonal braces added the total flex is now about 1mm from right way up to upside down. I feel more comfortable attacking the underside now without any risk of bending the car!

I’m using a combination of scissor lift and rotisserie for my 914 - between the two of these I can access all areas and work at decent angle for welding etc. I’m only just starting to work in the underside but it’s already a massive improvement over working upside down. I wouldn’t do another bare shell restoration without either the lift or the rotisserie. As above I’ve braced the door openings well due the strain on the shell from holding it by the bumper mounts.

Cheers. The Clarke garage was a good bit of kit - quite sturdy and certainly kept the rain and snow out. It withstood some pretty strong winds too without any problems. It was quite a fiddle to put together - assume on 2-3 hours with 2 people - the first hour just sorting out which tube and connector goes where. Whilst it keeps the weather out - it doesn't stop the damp - it's a bit like a car cover in that respect. Whenever the weather was good I partially opened up both ends to dry things out. So I guess it depends what you're looking to use it for and what time of year it is.

Thanks for all the comments. Its definitely taken a lot more time than I expected - I don't know if this is just because I'm very slow or that's just they way it is with stuff like this... I suspect a bit of both. If I was doing this as a job for someone I'm sure they've be wondering what the hell I'd been up to all this time!! The mid rise lift has made all the difference doing this - it's meant I could do nearly all of the work standing up and its saved my back and knees in process. I wouldn't attempt this kind of work without a lift in future (even my wife can see why I needed the lift now!). The other new tools that I've found invaluable are a power file and a cordless grinder - both have made life easier and sped up progress too.

This is the last repair I've done prior to deciding to turn the car upside down and strip the underside. Its the left longitudinal and jack point - with hindsight I've no doubt I could have sourced a large single piece repair panel from the states. This took many weekends with a few breaks where motivation ran out too. It didn't look good even before I started Access panel cut out Crusty Ground back First small repair - trying to maintain the hole position as it's how the jack tube is aligned: Next patch: This is where the front and rear chassis sections join - the metal was too thin for my comfort, so another patch Welded in I then found the lower corner was corroded internally - so another complex repair piece was required: Inner skin repair: Then the same again for the outer corner I was quite pleased with this one: Next up was the main structural repair - this bridges the join between the sill and rear chassis Still keeping aligned to the hole behind Trying to replicate the pressing in the original panel without a press! Jack tube going on at last Another Dansk panel that had to be re-worked to fit... Relieved to find it aligns with the outer sill Access panel going back on: Door gaps still good