sazabi2001

I think the Rennline G50 mount can be pressed out like normal G50 rubber without damaging it? I pressed out the original ones and seems alright. I bought Rennline G50 normal hardness one before realising the engine and gearbox mount rubber pieces are the same, kind to stupid. I also think the 2 piece Rennline design may cause problem, the centre metal tube should be a 1-piece thing to provide enough stiffness. Isn't all 4 mounts should be more or less same hardness, or it may increase the vibration because of imbalance?

Update would be slow. From the day I opened the diff cover plate to what you see now has been almost 3 month. I can only take 1 thing out every 1-2 weeks. Not a lot of information about G50.00 is one problem. I have the Bentley manual, but it doesn't have the G50 section, I have the 964 manual its different with G50.00 in some key things, like the location of race and thrust washer. Another thing is I don't have the full access of VW / Porsche tool, so I have to find a way around it. Everything I take something out I need new tool, either I wait for ebay shipping it from outside UK or I modify it out of something. I mean I spent more time on tools rather than the dissembling the gearbox right now.

That post is one of the key source of information I had. I have been researching it for quite a while. But he got a different problem and different way to sorting things out. TBH, not a lot of information about working with G50 on the internet, especially G50.00 from 87-89.

10 pervious owners should be the main reason. I guess somebody did a money shift once. It's 130k mile still with its original clutch.. In fact everything was original except one side of the front wing, so the car may be in an accident but no record, but that shouldn't related to the gearbox problem. The clutch pressure plate has about 1.5mm left, but the clutch fork shaft was eaten by the needle bearing quite a bit, and the throwout bearing was quite loose. When the car in rest in neutral I saw the gear lever shake a bit, so I guess clutch doesn't disengage properly, that's part of the reason if not the main cause of this. From what I can see, the gearbox has been like this for a while before I picked it up, and some metal debris get in between the synchro ring and the gear cone, resulting the ring doesn't sit properly when engaging. The inner side and back side of the ring seems to have a coat of black stuff, not sure its some kind of coating from factory or just metal debris 'cooked' into the brass surface. Also there was some black residual inside the gearbox everywhere, so I guess it may be overheated once, or the transmission fluid gone bad or something. The bottom line is, it has some problem for a while and never been treated properly. All things mixed together and the end result is like this. That the what the 1st / 2nd synchro ring looks like now. some of the 'black coating' is washable with 'pink stuff' kitchen cleaner, so its less likely to be factory coating. If someone can show me a brand new G50 synchro ring that'll be great.

I decided to take apart of my G50.00 and see what's going wrong with it, it was 'just some grinding gears' sort of things... First thing opened the side cover, the diff is quite dead. So I guess it's going to be very bad. Ring gear is quite worn out too, So a new output shaft with new ring /pinion gear + diff set would be the starting point. I think I also need a pinion depth setting tool, see whether I can modified something out of a universal pinion tool. Took the rear casing out, 5th and R gear seems alright, but that as far as my luck goes. A special puller is needed to take the 5th gear out. So picked up a vintage puller from a local antique shop, cut/polished the claw until it's thin enough to go between gear and the middle casing. I was told it's going to be a hard pull, but not really. Seems like if the puller shape is correct that's not too bad with the help of a heat gun. The puller did get destroyed after the pull, I guess I made it too thin. Took the 5th/R gear set, synchro and centre casing out. The 1st/2nd is a bit of difficult job. I think I suppose to take the gear holder out first and then pull the gear out on a vice. But I feel like its safer to pull the gear out first with the holder still in place. This was a hard pull, There are 2 races in the 1st gear, one for the bearing and one locked the gear. I cant find a way to pull them separately, eventually I bought a 15 ton puller for the job. Once the first gear out, 2nd & synchro is a lot easier. The 2nd gear synchro ring was in bad shape, worn from the side not the top. Seems like something related to the clutch fork / fork shaft bearing / throwout bearing. I guess the clutch wasn't disengaged completely and resulting this, but I might be wrong. Judging from the fact that the ring still has the pointy top, I started to believe that steel ring with different angle may actually be better than brass ring. But I guess at this point I'll still go for brass ring. The dog teeth on the 2nd gear and sleeve was rounded due to the ring failure as expected, so new gear set and sleeve would be needed. Finally get the gear holder out from the bell housing, some more bad news here, the output shaft bearing failed too, possible due the the worn diff / ring gear, they generate vibration and eaten up the bearing, or the other way around. At this point the price for part list is approaching £5000 I guess, consider I paid £12000 for the car (cheapest 911 3.2 on ebay at the time, well, cheap for a reason). Seems like going for a used G50 box would be a better option than rebuilding this. But I still need to get the 3rd/4th gear out to see how bad it is and make the final decision. Also, G50 does seems quite tolerable with worn parts. I mean I drove some car has worse shift than this, but the condition inside the gearbox turns out to be not as bad.

According to Bill. V from pelicanparts.com, going for boxster front / 3.2 rear should be the right move (without proportioning valve), which gives you about 1.64:1 front / rear hydraulic ratio (piston size), which is quite close to the original SC of 1.6:1. If Boxster front + SC rear, the hydraulic ratio would become something like 2.0:1, which is too much front bias. ========== I currently also going for Boxster front, but customised disc (300X24mm or 310X24mm, waiting for measurement), HiSpec Billet-4 rear + 996 C2 rear disc (299X24mm)

Planning to go for the Boxster caliper route with floating rotor, did some basic measurement. Can anybody check the measurement for me in case I got it wrong?

Some road-legal HID / LED mod, sort of.. Well, can't say 100% road legal, but at least they're 7-inch E-marked sealed units. Need to take the original reflector off and DIY a bracket to fit them. I think they're slightly larger than the original reflector, so some creativity may be needed to fit them into the original 911 headlight housing. 1, ebay retro-fit LED for LandRover / G wagon / Motorbike, about £40-70 for a pair, all looks the same, and I guess D911 retro-light uses this unit. 2, Wipac LED unit for LandRover, about £400+, looks similar to LumeTechnik solution, also E marked sealed unit. 3, Hella 1ZS 271 531-031 for Mercedes G Class Wagon W463, £1000 for a pair of HID units. Since those retro-fit LED would work on Mercedes G, I guess the other-way around should be OK too. These are original Mercedes headlights and has to be road-legal.

Yes, the projector becomes a large oversized H4 (or H7) bulb, and you need something smaller than H4 to go inside, which is a H1 bulb. That's the easiest way to install it, and fully reversible. Alternatively, you can take the H4 mount off from the reflector, than you can screw-in whatever you want inside the headlight housing. It may have the risk of breaking the reflector though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motorcycle-Upgrade-2-5-Mini-8-0-H1-HID-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Headlight/312315293845 Just eBay search '2.5 inch H1 Bi Xenon projector', most of them came from China (Sinolyn?) and should be the same thing. And if you really want good ones you can try 'Morimoto Mini H1 Bi-Xenon' projector, I think is aluminium cup instead of plastic cup, but still made in China. For LEDs, just any H1 type with small filament should work, the smaller the better focus, so I think eventually I'll go for Philips. The one I tested wouldn't go into my car, I just bought the cheapest one to test the fitment anyway. BTW, I'm waiting those chinese made fake 'Porsche LED daytime running light' to arrive. For obvious reason you cant find them on UK / US ebay, you have to order them on alibaba. They may look crappy but I still want to try it out.

I think they should fit, but those notches on the edge may compromise the rubber seal, just get lens without notches. Anyway I can’t for sure so I went for 356 ones. I originally want the Rennline clear 911 lenses with the correct 911 shape, but seems too much for me.

My low-cost LED build, ebay £29 projectors (H4->H1) and £6.99 H1 LED. £90 for a pair of 356 clear lens (I guess i overpaid for the glass, it used to be way cheaper..) The projector is for bi-xenon, but I asked the seller and they said it does work with LED, just H1 LED only has single filament and it's either too bright for the low-beam or too weak for high-beam. Took out for a quick test, not bad for the price, much better focusing than original halogen light, and also better looking too. And it seems able to keep the M605 levelling kit working too. I think I would use better LED when fitting to the car, Philips or Osram. Next task is to change the fog-light to LED projector as well, maybe a bit more tricky than the headlight.

Since I pay the ‘reasonable’ amount of money for the Rennline G50 rubber mount, I started to wonder why I should pay that much. So I pressed out the rubber from the engine mount as well. Without surprise, they seems to be the same piece of rubber, and people did just press the engine rubber to the g50 cross bar. Now I’m not sure it’s just G50 car use the same rubber or all 915s, but I feel like I spent some stupid amount of money.

MR2 spider. They're dead cheap, very fun to drive, still civil and toyota reliability. When you get bored with it, swap a 2ZZ and a new beast has born.

Thanks, Mark.. Your pic explains a lot of things to me. I think I'll go for a straight pipe, maybe DIY or Dansk.