Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Hi, I am the new keeper of a Carrera 3.2 Targa Sport (1984). I have a Ctek battery maintainer with battery clamps. Initially, I disconnected the battery and kept the bonnet on the second catch (slightly raised). But this caused merry hell with the Cobra alarm (subject of another thread sometime...). Now that that is sorted out, I have the battery reconnected, with the Ctek cable running out over the seal just above the corner with the bonnet fully closed. Is there a better way? Can the bonnet stay on second catch (slightly raised)? Does the light go out? Will the alarm pin cause an issue? I don't believe the cigarette lighter is always-on, which I guess means that a cigarette lighter cable is out of the question? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusb Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Congrats on your new car. Never attempt to charge a 3.2 via lighter,as you will burn every wire in loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thanks - that's good to know. What's the best way to manage the battery tender do you think? I've that new fuse board with the ATO fuses on order by the way. Congrats on your new car.Never attempt to charge a 3.2 via lighter,as you will burn every wire in loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Comerford Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 If the boot light is causing you problems then the small, removable bracket I made to keep the switch plunger depressed should solve it. I leave it fitted most of the time. If you look at where the plunger is you wil be able to figure it out. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark bevan Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Remove the alarm and the bulb from the bonnet light. Otherwise thread the connector ends through a grommet hole into the bonnet area from the outside and attach the ends to the battery permanently. You then couple up to it outside the car. You may have to remove the clips and fit a connector socket if it is not this config already. I have a ctek on my elise. Edited September 19, 2015 by mark bevan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatkenny Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 I leave mine on second catch (although an have shut it in the past) with lead out in corner as you said without the light coming on but if you have an alarm switch that needs to be made then do as Mark ^^ said and feed cable through to outside Welcome by the way as is the tradition on IB photos or it didn't happen We all love pics here ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 Is there an existing hole I can fish through? Don't really want to drill a hole and add grommet if possible. I think I have the terminal connectors as well as alligator clips cable piece for the Ctek. But I don't think it is fused up near the +ve as shown in your pigtail (probably a must). Remove the alarm and the bulb from the bonnet light. Otherwise thread the connector ends through a grommet hole into the bonnet area from the outside and attach the ends to the battery permanently. You then couple up to it outside the car. You may have to remove the clips and fit a connector socket if it is not this config already. I have a ctek on my elise. Yes, sounds like one way to avoid removing the bulb. I guess the contact/plunger is up near the bulb unit. Is the bulb fused? Looks like it may on "18"/5A 4th from the left (Interior light, Clock Glove compartment light Luggage compartment light). I might be able to pull this. Maybe the bulb is easier! I think if I don't set the alarm and lock with the key, it will immobilise automatically after a time-out (it's a Cobra 6422 Thatcham Cat 1 unit). Overall, I wonder will I wreck the seal if I keep the bonnet fully closed? This is the "no work" option you see If the boot light is causing you problems then the small, removable bracket I made to keep the switch plunger depressed should solve it. I leave it fitted most of the time. If you look at where the plunger is you wil be able to figure it out.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 Thanks! Just saw your post as was replying to the others. I'll check see if the light stays out on 2nd catch. Think alarm will be OK as above assuming it is just in immobiliser mode (it will be much narkier if it is left without juice for a week) The ultrasonics don't like the Targa "gap" at the top of the windows ahem... so tend to turn these off either way. Photo attached I leave mine on second catch (although an have shut it in the past) with lead out in corner as you said without the light coming on but if you have an alarm switch that needs to be made then do as Mark ^^ said and feed cable through to outsideWelcome by the way as is the tradition on IB photos or it didn't happenWe all love pics here ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 Well I had a further look. 1. Alarm behaves as immobiliser with bonnet on second catch (so OK) 2. Bonnet light only comes on when opened beyond the catch So in summary, I can keep it on the catch, and no risk of damaging the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatkenny Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Same ^^^ Car looks great by the way :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera32TargaSp Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Thanks! Same ^^^Car looks great by the way :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickster Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Old thread, but I thought I'd give my view. I assume that these are not daily drivers - hence the use of the Ctek (which I also have). Batteries do not like not being used, and they also do not like being on battery tenders 24/7. My solution was a Bosch Silver battery (guaranteed 5 yrs) and an isolator switch on the battery terminal. https://www.electricalcarservices.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=895&L=1&gclid=cmb17pwr68ocfakfwwoddngh1q I just turn the switch off when the car is garaged. I can go months between drives and never have problems - no need to charge in between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon749 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Agree with Dickster about batteries and charges connected 24/7. I use a timer on the socket that the charger is plugged into. Comes on 1 day a week for 24hr. Timer set to do this every week. Try a timer, or get into the habit of turning charger on 1 a week. As long as you don't have a massive power drain, 1 day a week should keep the battery topped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJH911 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Does one need an alarm / immobiliser / tracker on one's car? I know theft is an increasing risk of theft but my broker has never asked me to fit one to the car. Without such drain and a decent enough battery (I, for some reason - probably irrational - like Varta and Bosch) the car will usually crank after 7+ weeks. I do try to leave it on a CTEK for ~a day every 6-12 months but, aside from that, it has been good as gold. Edited February 9, 2016 by EJH911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarreraJohn Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 mine is on a CTEK 24/7 for weeks sometimes months at a time in winter, never had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ab54666 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 mine is on a CTEK 24/7 for weeks sometimes months at a time in winter, never had any problems. Snap, mines is on 24/7 and has been for 5 years, never had an issue, they actually are built to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJH911 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Snap, mines is on 24/7 and has been for 5 years, never had an issue, they actually are built to do that. Mine would be if the car lived anywhere near a plug socket... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimC Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I have Accumate conditioners on 2 cars 24/7. No problems at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickster Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Does one need an alarm / immobiliser / tracker on one's car? I know theft is an increasing risk of theft but my broker has never asked me to fit one to the car. Without such drain and a decent enough battery (I, for some reason - probably irrational - like Varta and Bosch) the car will usually crank after 7+ weeks. I do try to leave it on a CTEK for ~a day every 6-12 months but, aside from that, it has been good as gold. My car was stolen years ago, and the insurance company insisted I got one after that.. This firm did it http://www.hamilton-palmer.co.uk/ very happy with it - they do a lot of high end cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJH911 Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 My car was stolen years ago, and the insurance company insisted I got one after that.. This firm did it http://www.hamilton-palmer.co.uk/ very happy with it - they do a lot of high end cars. Didn't they do the UK-market 993 alarms when new? I'll get around to doing it (v quickly if it's insisted upon). For now it lives hidden away with lots of CCTV around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nige Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 It's not necessary that you need an alarm for most classic polices, but it's piece of mind and useful if it has remote central locking. Just make sure you have an agreed value policy and it's up to date with current market values. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ab54666 Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Hamilton Palmer did the 'factory' alarms for Porsche UK up until mid/late 90's. Better options these days although if you have one of the Porsche systems they can repair/sell spare parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickster Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) Ah, I didn't know that. The key fobs could do with replacing so i'll see what spares are like. I also have the remote central locking which is great. Edited February 10, 2016 by dickster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenC Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 H&P are very helpful so certainly worth a call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickster Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 A bit late but hey! I followed up on the advice and suggestion and contacted H&P for new fobs. I was told the rubber degrades over time and they offer a rebuild kit including battery for £15!!! Ordered, fitted and works a treat now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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