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Richard Bernau

Gruppe IB
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About Richard Bernau

  • Rank
    Trackmeister

Profile Information

  • Location
    Haxted, Surrey
  • Interests
    Wine, food, music, good times, good friends and family. And cars obviously.

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1985 930SE - 3.6, 6 speed, 987 Boxster S
  • Daily Driver
    Mini Cooper S (modified), X3 3.0D
  • Lottery Car
    unknown
  • Most-played albums in your iPod/CD Changer
    Was Foo Fighters, now teenage kids pop music and nostalgic 80s stuff.
  • Day Job?
    Something to do with advising Banks and Brexit
  • Favourite Food
    Increasingly healthy, occasionally naughty
  • Drink?
    Burgundy Reds
  • Drive of your life
    The next European road trip - 2018 Pyrenees

Recent Profile Visitors

1,779 profile views
  1. WTF? They are mad. Try Ivan's method and call Germany to ask about the return policy. Then move on to BTW, your UK guy doesn't seem to know about the policy and I bought one and want to return it... Maybe that works?
  2. 3.2 cooler is a good cooler. Leave it if its working fine. If not working add a second small cooler with soft lines in series but leave the OE in place. Please, please stick your number plate on the grill like my old one. Nothing looks more "fake RS/RSR" than a grill with no cooler behind it. Mouth, no trousers. Apologies in advance if anyone is offended, but I can't stand the empty cooler look. Also, if you did do a centre cooler, then you need the RSR vent panel behind it to get airflow through the cooler, so its a bigger job requiring significant cutting than may appear.
  3. I am with Ivan - I would call Germany directly and cut out the English guy, who sounds like an idiot. Even if I had to find a German speaker to facilitate it. Personally, I would avoid anything going public on Facebook etc. I would even think of deleting this thread until its resolved. Anything that creates a bad feeling can only serve to make resolution harder and get them to dig their heels in. Likewise, anything legal is the absolute last resort when everything else has failed. Use the phone. Real conversations and face to face wins every time over the keyboard. Airing this kind of stuff in public makes us feel better and justified as we are playing our side of the story to our own tribe and getting affirmation for our position, but it rarely helps find a satisfactory solution. This ^^^. There is a resolution if a call to Germany is made.
  4. Remind me, on a CIS car does it have a pressure limiter and a return line like the 3.2 fuel system? If so, you don't really care if the pump produces more pressure or flow as the limiter brings the pressure down to the required level and the excess flow is returned. My 3.2 certainly ran better with a higher flow/pressure pump than the tired and then failed 3.2 pump. Both the early pump (used as emergency road trip replacement) and the 044 pump were fine.
  5. Sitting in place before attaching to the tail and then attached. not perfect but fits and should be somewhat effective.
  6. Agree, send them back. Question - with the oil line fouling issue, do you not need to backdate the cross over oil line to fit SSI style to a 3.2? I recall doing that many years ago.
  7. Back to the business at hand. I have been quietly progressing on the snagging list and fixing/improving little bits and pieces. The only bit I take any real pride in was making the intercooler shroud fit the new tail. I will get pics off my phone, but its real carbon and it works/fits, so job jobbed. In other news I had a short but decent drive over Easter. Frustratingly, I still cannot figure out why the passenger door won't lock despite having that apart. I know it will be simple, but may have to give in and get an indie to fix it.
  8. I don't recall having to buy anything other than the pump. Wouldn't swear to it, but that is my recollection.
  9. I am not sure I can make it now. 50:50. PM me if anyone else is looking for a spot.
  10. If I can make a suggestion... You really have 2 options... First option, just use them. Being as dispassionate as possible, the issues are aesthetic. I am struggling to see anything that would effect function. Yeah, some not so pretty welds, but it looks solid and there is nothing that is going to make 0.5hp difference to exhaust flow IMHO. And the bits you can see look fine. Second option, return them. Forget any complicated options - if you polish this, pay for that, I will accept whatever kind of stuff. If you don't want them, just say they aren't good enough for the money plus they were damaged in transit, so I am sending them back, agreed? Maybe you have to pay the post to get it done. Lesson learned, move on. Life is too short unless you really love arguing about this stuff. Finally a penny worth of advice - forget about the legal ins and outs. Unless you are actually going to take legal action, nobody really cares. Just be clear, simple, consistent and straight forward and give them an opportunity to do the right thing. Quoting (or misquoting?) legal rights just makes people angry and defensive. I have bought a lot of Porsche parts at distance over the years and sometimes things don't fit or aren't all you hope for. Keeping things simple and giving vendors an easy way of "fixing" the problem without trying to extract every last cent of compensation or "what I am legally entitled to" is usually the most successful plan. Most people are decent and given an opportunity will do the right thing UNLESS they feel they are being screwed over. Your choice.
  11. I did that on the 3.2 and went just in front of the ECU on the pass side. Same on the 930 with Motec relocated. I don't understand how a 4 point can really be anti-submarine as the shoulder belts always pull the lap belts up to what feels like a dangerous position as soon as you tighten them. $0.02.
  12. So long as its walking distance into the old town so you can avoid fighting for parking and drink driving you are golden. Best wine in the world in Burgundy (IMHO), though you have to open your wallet. Wide.
  13. That should be 280hp at 6250rpm (not 6750rpm) and holds flat to 6750rpm. Lower curves are std 3.2 - though in hindsight, the scale on those looks way off. But, the shape of the tq curve is the important thing to takeaway. Cut to the chase, I think 6750rpm is too low and 7250rpm is fairly safe and is all you will need. I would be more worried about fuelling and mis-shifts as potential causes of disaster.
  14. My old engine is probably closest in spec to yours without being 3.4. The dyno will provide part of the answer, Nick gives you a technical answer and the rest is your preference. I will explain. 1. The dyno will find peak hp and tq - there is likely a graph on my hot rod thread somewhere that would be a very good guide. The cams will hold tq longer than std but on the dyno numbers alone, there is likely no point in a rev limit higher than about 6750rpm. Even at 6750rpm you will likely be at/past peak power and past peak tq which IIRC was around 5400rpm or thereabouts. Maybe you are good power to 7250rpm as Nick says, but I am sceptical. Anyway, IIRC, 6750rpm is where Wayne set my limit initially based solely on the dyno as there was no point going higher by that criteria alone, though I changed that limit later (see point 3). 2. Nick is also giving you something close to the technical safe rpm limit based on components. Your valve train sounds like its built for 7000+rpm. You are relying on the race valve springs to keep the top end in shape, but I see that as more of a mis-shift insurance policy than a licence to set the redline at say 7500rpm. You are relying on the ARP bolts for the bottom end. I defer to Nick, but I have never heard that 7500rpm is sensible on ARPs. Sounds like an upper limit as your bottom end is not lightened, just strengthened a bit. Whatever, it certainly gives you licence to play in the 7000rpm area IMHO. 3. Preference comes into it on the basis that a higher rpm limit is useful given the somewhat lengthy 3.2 gearing. Your 3.4 litres, plenum + res flap and resultant tq will help this, but having more rpms to play with is also useful sometimes if you just want to hold a gear a bit longer. Particularly in say the Alps, once altitude, sharp corners and steep roads come into play. I set my limiter at 7200rpm in the end, though most of the time I never went that high as you can feel the power is tapering off. HTH [Edit - peak tq was almost 250lbft at 5300rpm and holding almost flat to 6750rpm and peak hp was c280hp at about 6700rpm. Both tapered off quickly thereafter. Will re post the graph.]
  15. You could just post them to VCI. I did this many years ago to get 964 calipers adapted to fit over the early 944T discs for 3.2 Carrera front struts. Or... Start calling indies and seeing if they have a tame machine shop they can recommend. If you can get measurements then the work itself is easy enough - if you have a pillar drill, you could possibly even contemplate doing it yourself. Even someone like a wheel refurb shop may be helpful. They are usually on an estate and know all the local guys that do this kind of stuff via word of mouth. Where are you based? Eg., someone like Turbo Thomas probably knows 10 guys round Birmingham that could do this. UK is full of small businesses that can do this, but its still fairly old school and non-digital as to how you access it.
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