Jump to content
Impact Bumpers

Richard Bernau

Gruppe IB
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Richard Bernau

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Haxted, Surrey
  • Interests
    Wine, food, music, good times, good friends and family. And cars obviously.

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1985 930SE - 3.6, 6 speed, 987 Boxster S
  • Daily Driver
    Mini Cooper S (modified), A6 Allroad
  • Lottery Car
  • Most-played albums in your iPod/CD Changer
    Was Foo Fighters, now teenage kids pop music and nostalgic 80s stuff.
  • Day Job?
    Something to do with advising Banks and Brexit
  • Favourite Food
    Increasingly healthy, occasionally naughty
  • Drink?
    Burgundy Reds
  • Drive of your life
    The next European road trip - 2020 The Alps

Recent Profile Visitors

1,976 profile views
  1. Anderson wasn't just some punter who wrote a book. He ran a shop for decades and would have seen many US and ROW cars over that time with many being rebuilt for track/race. I am not saying he is infallible, but I would start with the presumption he is correct. Maybe Anderson is the only source for this small port "legend", but it has certainly been the accepted wisdom for decades. $0.02.
  2. 17s are better for tyre choice for sure. You get into something like the Nankangs (which are excellent) in 235/40 and 255/40 for much less money than 16 inch rubber. You can get a BBS-E88-alike from Image wheels, custom offset and gold centres for semi sensible money. Perkles always used to say that if you visited Image in the Midlands and offered cash, you could get a great deal... It costs EUR2200 just for 4 E88 aluminium centres for BBS now, so I hate to think what the wheels are.
  3. If the fronts are polished lips not anodised, then its easy to repolish, right? Bit of autosol and you are good to go. Vaseline is probably no use on polished, just the anodised. I have found vaseline can work on paint centres though.
  4. That's not the usual milkiness, but I would at least try vaseline.
  5. Post a picture please? This is my best guess and advice but a picture would help. Try smothering them in vaseline for 24 hours and then wipe clean before you dive into the hassle of a full refurb. In 30 years of 911s and Fuchs, I don't think I have ever seen a wheel cleaner/chemical issue that can't be fixed with vaseline. It's certainly worth trying. I used to know some of where Nick used to get his wheel work done, but its at least 3 separate contractors (stripping, polishing, anodising) and you need to do the running around yourself. All based near Crawley/Gatwick.
  6. Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but my recollection is that all the later 204hp SCs were the small port/small valve spec, so not just the US cars. So counter intuitively, its the less powerful SCs that are the marginally better pick for a performance build.
  7. Sizes will be your limiting factor if you are looking for 16s. Looking at Camskill, if you want 245 rears then its V70As or Toyos only. Money no object, I would get a set of PZero Corsas and rap them round a set of custom offset Image 3 piece wheels in the style of your choice. They do a 3 piece Fuchs-a-like and a BBS-a-like. A bit cheaper would be a set of Braids. Unlike Jevvy, I would jump on the R bandwagon and go for it. They are just more fun and pretty much as forgiving, so long as its dry. If you could get something like a Michie Supersport in the size I would just go with that as they are nearly as good as Rs, but you can't. I get Jev's argument and he is right, but I would still get Rs. With your suspension set up - spring rate, damper valving, ARB size, camber and car weight - it comes alive on Rs on the track. From experience it works very well and I found 245/45 + 225/45 Toyos to be ideal.
  8. Stock SC engine already revs to nearly 7k rpm, so yes, a healthy, fresh engine can run a 7k rpm redline with just a little additional risk. Even the 3.2 CS, which is same internals as 3.2, with smaller rod bolts and heavier pistons compared to an SC was redlined at 6840rpm IIRC. The intake system and engine management have nothing to do with what is a safe redline. In a rebuild, its how you spec your rod bolts, valve springs and retainers that give you extra headroom for revs and then it's about lightening components. Re, the how do you know what cam with what piston Q, I haven't seen a table, which is why you ask a cam supplier what they know works from experience and then you ask the same Q to your engine builder. Then they measure it during the build to be sure it works. Very little in the world of air cooled engine recipes hasn't been done before - you just have to search a bit to find the recipe.
  9. No. SSIs are a repro of the HEs from the early 70s which were a perfect fit on the little engines up to 2.7 litres. They still work fine on 3.0s and 3.2s but they are not large headers. The "right size for modified IBs is 1 5/8 inch primaries, but its more a nice to have than a must have if you have SSIs already.
  10. Good job! How are the brakes? Given it's still (I think) on road biased pads? Which will be at best part worn.
  11. Look here for the tech specs on cams (primarily lift and duration - which in summary govern amount of air in and out) - http://drcamshafts.com/ As you will have gathered from comments thus far, you are lucky in that EFI opens the door to a world of cam options and your constraint is now the valve to piston clearance on the std dome shape pistons. I know you can run a 993SS or GT2EVO cam (both similar) in a 3.2, but you will need to do homework for an SC. If you decide to bite the bullet on pistons with valve pockets then your cam choice is dictated more by the character of the engine. As noted S cams are nice in a 3.0, but you can go right up to a DC60 or DC80 and its still very driveable on EFI. I have a friend who has run those profiles on a 2.9 motor and they are a lot of fun. Valve train upgrades give you safety and let you run the higher revs where these cams perform at their best.
  12. Everything is for sale at a price. You have PM.
  13. Compromise? Smoosh the 2 together and you get something like this - 3.6 turbo, 6 speed, etc, etc in a 1050kg 930. Well within your budget.
  14. WTF - who stole the clock? Not me, LOL. Alex must have it. I was going to replace the clock with a Ford Fiesta eyeball air vent - straight swap - but never did get around to that.
  • Create New...